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Spigot bearing fitment
donut - 11/3/07 at 11:59 AM

Ok i have my Spigot bearing from Burtons for my xflow and a hole in the engine for it to go in. I tried to put the bearing in by hand and couldn't do it at all... not surprised as it's supposed to be an interference fit. Ok no probs.... SO

What's the best way to bang this baby in and at what point do i realise that's it's too big for the hole and that i have been sent the wrong one (if that's the case!!)?

Thanks in advance


Peter M - 11/3/07 at 12:10 PM

Put spigot bearing in freezer,warm crank with hair dryer spigot bearing should then go in with light taping with something soft making sure you keep bearing square as it starts to go in.Forget to say if needle roller type you will see a small grease seal this should be outer most.

[Edited on 11/3/07 by Peter M]


mark chandler - 11/3/07 at 02:09 PM

Your old engine was an auto, have you got the old steel torqueplate location bush out ?

I,m sure they used to have one, although not very thick.


rusty nuts - 11/3/07 at 03:10 PM

One end of the bearing should have numbers on it. That is the "outside " of the bearing . The ideal tool to fit it is a shaft with a shoulder to butt against bearing and a thinner end to go inside . They can be put in using just a hammer but be very careful


donut - 11/3/07 at 04:15 PM

mark chandler, do you mean this bit (see attached pic- the bronze coloured bit, is that what you mean?)

Image deleted by owner

[Edited on 11/3/07 by donut]


mark chandler - 11/3/07 at 06:47 PM

Hmmm years since I had one of these apart, if the bearing looks like its just a tight fit, ie 1 thou oversize to the hole then you are okay, freezer for the bearing and it should drop in.

If its much more than that then assume a bush is lurking in there.

The photo is the wrong angle to see, I have extracted bushed using the hydrulic system where you fill the hole with grease then get a tightly fitting lump of metal that fits the hole an wack it in, the grease then pushes out the bush, alternatively broken hacksaw blade to cut the bush then withdraw.

Regards Mark


donut - 11/3/07 at 07:38 PM

I'll get another photo tomorrow. To be honest there looks like there's nothing in there but i'll let you be the judge


David Jenkins - 11/3/07 at 07:44 PM

In your other thread you had an end-on picture of the crank - in that one the hole looked empty. With my engine (also ex-automatic) it was also empty.


mark chandler - 11/3/07 at 07:50 PM

Bronze coloured bit is a little strange, why would you have a bronze bush with a proper spigot bearing.

Rare old beast the 1300 auto escorts...

Also very very slow..

I,m afraid another picture will not help me, its just a case of comparing the sizes as previously stated and using the freezer and hair dryer if its a really close fit.

NB I used to bang them in with a lump of wood.

Regards Mark


donut - 11/3/07 at 07:56 PM

That bronze bit goes between the auto flywheel and crank end. Probably just a spacer of some sort.

My engine is a 1600 auto and it's a GT spec engine (which the auto engine was) which is why i want to shove a gearbox on the end of it


donut - 11/3/07 at 07:58 PM

David Jenkins: I'm 99.999% sure it's empty!!


David Jenkins - 11/3/07 at 08:50 PM

Have you got a decent measuring tool (e.g. a digital vernier)?

You could measure the i.d. of the hole, and the o.d. of the bearing - they should be very close (within a thou or so).

I seem to recall that my spigot bearing needed to be bumped in.

For those that are puzzled - the auto box didn't need a spigot bearing - the bronze-coloured thing was an adaptor to allow the end of the crank to fit into the torque converter. There was no equivalent of the gear shaft found on a manual box.


Deckman001 - 11/3/07 at 09:57 PM

Andy, if you want to borra a vernier, txt me tomorrow and I'll drop it in to ya

Jason


donut - 11/3/07 at 09:59 PM

Yeah would be a good idea!! Cheers!


flak monkey - 11/3/07 at 10:02 PM

The spigot bearings are a bit of a tight fit, and a bit of a pain to get started. Once you get it in square it should tap in nicely. A very small hammer is quite good for the job (a pin hammer)

If you can find something to fit in the bore of the bearing (its 0.5" bore IIRC) and something that will slide along the shaft (i.e. something fairly heavy with a 0.5" bore) then you can tap it in like that.

Check the surface in the end of the crank doesnt have any crap or rust on too, if its never had anything in, it might need a quick qipe around with emery paper.

David

PS if the bearing is a thou up on the id of the end of the crank, you'll never get the bugger in. 0.025mm should give you about a 3 tonne press fit! I would say that the bearing and hole will be size to size (a reasonably tight tap in fit)

[Edited on 11/3/07 by flak monkey]


mark chandler - 12/3/07 at 10:17 PM

"the bronze-coloured thing was an adaptor "

Thats what I suspected, the cranks are all machined the same so that bronze lump of metal needs to go then if the hole measures to small, once out the way the spigot should be a nice snug fit.


britishtrident - 13/3/07 at 11:21 AM

On many cars with slushboxes a split steel spigotbush is pressed into the end of the crank to centralise the torque convertor. This has to be removed before fitting a spigot bush.


[Edited on 13/3/07 by britishtrident]