jambo
|
| posted on 26/5/09 at 09:52 PM |
|
|
fuel hose worry?
i am a bit concerned with a 7" piece of hose i have at the throttle boddies. where the copper fuel pipe enters into the engine bay this pipe
connects between the copper and the fitting on the throttle boddies.
set up is zx10 bec using origonal bike pump.
the hose seems to look bloated,do i need to fit metal coated hose,if so can you recomend a supplier.
thanks.
|
|
|
|
|
blakep82
|
| posted on 26/5/09 at 09:54 PM |
|
|
if its fuel hose, and rated to high enough pressure, its fine.
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
|
|
|
Paul (Notts)
|
| posted on 27/5/09 at 07:39 AM |
|
|
make sure its not low pressure fule hose as this will swell up at high pressure.
Paul
|
|
|
Mr Whippy
|
| posted on 27/5/09 at 07:44 AM |
|
|
replace it if you have any doubt, it a very small price to pay for not having your car go up in flames. I buy only branded hoses for the fuel
lines (as it happens mostly goodyear) and use proper fuel line clamps too rather than jubilee clamps as those tend to jag into the hose on the small
sizes.
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 27/5/09 at 09:56 AM |
|
|
Just make sure you're using fuel hose rated for fuel injection systems (much higher pressure than carb'd systems).
Also if you're using straight copper pipe you should think about flaring the end of the pipe so the hose clamp sits behind the flare to prevent
it being forced off under pressure. One trick used here is to solder on an olive or solder ring straight connector which provides a suitable
flare/bead to retain the hose/clamp under pressure.
|
|
|
wilkingj
|
| posted on 27/5/09 at 11:35 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
Just make sure you're using fuel hose rated for fuel injection systems (much higher pressure than carb'd systems).
Also if you're using straight copper pipe you should think about flaring the end of the pipe so the hose clamp sits behind the flare to prevent
it being forced off under pressure. One trick used here is to solder on an olive or solder ring straight connector which provides a suitable
flare/bead to retain the hose/clamp under pressure.
Agreed, Although I would solder an olive on the end of the copper pipe. Flaring it will leave an edge that can cut into the inside of the pipe.
Or unless you have a brake pipe flaring tool with the right sized dies, put a rounded flare with no sharp edges against the pipe.
Best to be safe. A petrol fire is nasty, and more so if its under 60psi!
You do have an inertial cut off switch fitted to the pump's relay circuit dont you?.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
|
|
|
jambo
|
| posted on 27/5/09 at 09:58 PM |
|
|
i have already a soldered streight fitting on the end of copper pipe to aid blowing off also the bikes run stop switch wired in at dash.i think i
probably have carb hose fitted rather than inj. pressure hose.
any one know where i can get a piece of hp braider hose?
|
|
|
*davies144*
|
| posted on 1/6/09 at 09:43 PM |
|
|
make sure you have the correct hose, my car set on fire 2 weeks ago due to an incorrect fuel line (which i didnt fit by the way). ben
|
|
|
