mark chandler
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posted on 23/5/16 at 05:34 PM |
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My fuel pump is only triggered once it sees the engine cranking, needs a couple of turns to kick it off.
I,m sure Dale will sort you out anyway.
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DaveFJ
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posted on 26/5/16 at 08:31 AM |
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Well that's one issue resolved
New starter motor fitted and now it turns over...
Just waiting to hear from Dale now about the prognosis for my ailing MSnS.
Just to add to my woes however.... My laptop HDD has died with my only backups of the MS config ... looks like I might have to start from
scratch once Dale has performed his wizardry
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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Chris_Xtreme
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posted on 26/5/16 at 08:35 AM |
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let Dale know, he should be able to copy it down off the MS for you, assuming the chip is still sound and there was some issue around it at fault.
you never used it with a phone? or tablet? there will be a copy their too.. ever email it to someone or upload it to a forum? (just trying to
think of places you may have left it hanging around!)
re the hdd dying, you could try plugging it into another computer and seeing if it will let you get onto it to copy files off.
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BaileyPerformance
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posted on 26/5/16 at 11:05 AM |
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All fixed!
On its way back to Dave now, with map intact.
www.facebook.com/baileyperformance
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Ben_Copeland
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posted on 26/5/16 at 11:21 AM |
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What was wrong with it in the end Dale?
Ben
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Z20LET Astra Turbo, into a Haynes
Roadster
Enter Your Details Here
http://www.facebook.com/EquinoxProducts for all your bodywork needs!
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DaveFJ
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posted on 26/5/16 at 12:04 PM |
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Apparently
"some damage due to reverse or overvoltage spikes to power input stage, repaired burnt track and replaced a diode."
I wonder whether the starter motor failing in such a complete way caused some sort of issue killing the MS.......
Note to self 'must swap that 5A fuse for 2A !'
Very happy bunny.... Thanks to all that contributed thoughts and ideas
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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coyoteboy
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posted on 26/5/16 at 02:16 PM |
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Almost without a doubt - the power conditioning on the input to the MS is basic at best (but fully adequate most of the time). In the event of a giant
inductive load failing mid operation it's a surprise other items haven't died.
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gremlin1234
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posted on 26/5/16 at 05:57 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by coyoteboy
Almost without a doubt - the power conditioning on the input to the MS is basic at best (but fully adequate most of the time). In the event of a giant
inductive load failing mid operation it's a surprise other items haven't died.
I agree the two failing at the same time is likely
to be connected. and it may be prudent to check the alternator (diodes) too.
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BaileyPerformance
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posted on 26/5/16 at 06:40 PM |
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Most likely cause it incorrect grounding, the MS should be grounded to the engine block, the battery should be grounded to engine block and
chassis.
If a failed / failing starter pulls a load of current then a potential difference could be seen between engine and battery negative or chassis (if
grounding is too small or incorrect) this is one of the reasons why grounding MS to block is best. Unlikely the alternator has caused damage, MS will
run at 20v without a problem, a diode failure in an alternator will stop it working completely or reduce its current capability. A regulator failure
can cause over voltage but not normally more than 20v unless the engine was as high RPM at the time.
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BaileyPerformance
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posted on 26/5/16 at 06:45 PM |
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.... Just to add, an alternator regulates its output with ref to its case which is its ground, in a car the alternator is the source of power not the
battery (with engine running obviously) bad alternator ground can cause weird voltage fluctuations.
Again, MS ground (if grounded to block) shares same ref as alternator, and same power as MS should be powered directly from battery via relay.
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gremlin1234
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posted on 26/5/16 at 07:12 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by BaileyPerformance
.... Just to add, an alternator regulates its output with ref to its case which is its ground, in a car the alternator is the source of power not the
battery (with engine running obviously) bad alternator ground can cause weird voltage fluctuations.
Again, MS ground (if grounded to block) shares same ref as alternator, and same power as MS should be powered directly from battery via relay.
thanks for the two very useful notes.
my point about the alternator, was that if a failing starter caused damage to ms, it could have caused damage to the alternator too.. - but as you so
concisely put it, less likely.
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BaileyPerformance
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posted on 26/5/16 at 07:37 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by gremlin1234
my point about the alternator, was that if a failing starter caused damage to ms, it could have caused damage to the alternator too.. - but as you so
concisely put it, less likely.
Sorry I missed your point, it's possible the starter has caused damage to alternator, but probably not likely, but you never know
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DaveFJ
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posted on 27/5/16 at 09:35 AM |
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MS is grounded to the same chassis ground point as the main earth lead from the engine.. therefore effectively is earthed to the block
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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BaileyPerformance
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posted on 27/5/16 at 10:03 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by DaveFJ
MS is grounded to the same chassis ground point as the main earth lead from the engine.. therefore effectively is earthed to the block
No, not the same.
I suggest you move the MS ground to the block
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coyoteboy
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posted on 27/5/16 at 12:02 PM |
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Switch that over as suggested - when you crank you'll see a voltage drop over the block->chassis>battery ground connections, this will
cause the MS (which is grounded at the chassis/battery) to see a different (and varying) voltage reference.
The problem is that people assume a big braided cable is a zero-ohm link, which it isn't. And at low currents that's not really a problem,
but starters (and alts) are really really not low current devices, so the ground strap becomes a resistor and the voltage across it screws with the
reference for every sensor on the ECU and even risks situations where you get negative voltages at ECU inputs that shouldn't have them.
[Edited on 27/5/16 by coyoteboy]
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DaveFJ
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posted on 27/5/16 at 12:35 PM |
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To clarify... this is a diagram of how it is all connected right now.... I know the 300Amp earth cables are over the top - but its what i had
available at build time and thought 'you can never have too much'
the braided earth strap I am treating as just a secondary earth for the block. the connectors for the MS earths and the main earth lead are in direct
contact....
would there really be any benefit in me changing this???
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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coyoteboy
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posted on 27/5/16 at 03:44 PM |
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Yes. Contact resistances are the killer here and multiple ground paths are never good. You may see little difference in normal operation, and it may
work out just fine for you but you've just proved why it doesn't work.
That's the most tortuous ground scheme I've seen So much simpler to go battery > block, block to everything.
If you have 50 milli-ohms resistance across any single joint there you'll drop 10v across it with a heavy starter current. That's almost
your entire battery voltage!
[Edited on 27/5/16 by coyoteboy]
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DaveFJ
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posted on 22/7/16 at 08:27 AM |
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Pleased to say she is now running nicely again
took the time to totally rework the LP fuel system and fix a few other issues which have been hanging around for a while. Found that for some reason
my Coolant and Air sensor calibrations had 'fallen off' the MSnS so once I got those reprogrammed she seems to be running well....
Just registered my version of TunerStudio and hope to get some fine tuning done over the weekend, just got to pass MOT on Saturday first
Thanks to all who offered help and advice
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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coyoteboy
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posted on 22/7/16 at 12:27 PM |
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Great stuff!
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