Anyway continuing the the returnless fuel pump quandary. As I suspected the pump is a standard in tank design with the pressure regulator built into
the pump.
So the in tank swirl pot fills. The pump pulls it through the in tank filter. It pushes it through the external filter. Then there is a “T” it goes
straight on to the fuel rail or the exces pressure forces the regulator open where it drains back to the tank.
The lump has been sat in the front porch covered with a tarp for the last six weeks but 30 deg or not I found a few hours to get the Zetec drained
and stripped of the stand and bunged the Duratec 30 on so it was easier to move. Mounting points where only around 13mm further apart.
Interesting. Whilst not going in the same direction, i'm using an ST220 engine, adaptor plate to Audi transaxle, TTV flywheel, Brise starter,
Audi quattro plate (none sprung), ST220 cover, aux belt now only runs to the alternator with a simple tensioner (and converted alternator to
conventional type, they're ecu controlled intelligent as standard), running on an Mbe ecu. The engine/gearbox combo is going to be fitted in the
back of metro (6R4 rep) which is my current project, i've had the engine start/run on the floor, no issues at all getting it running (they do
sound nice ).
quote:Originally posted by Oddified
Made up a new stud (replaces an existing one in the front cover), Range rover P38 aircon tensioner, 6PK955 (although a 6PK962 would be an easier
fit).
That's a neat method, I went old school with a sliding tensioner. Moved the Alternator to the other side for lack of space. Description
quote:Originally posted by Oddified
Made up a new stud (replaces an existing one in the front cover), Range rover P38 aircon tensioner, 6PK955 (although a 6PK962 would be an easier
fit).
quote:Originally posted by Oddified
Made up a new stud (replaces an existing one in the front cover), Range rover P38 aircon tensioner, 6PK955 (although a 6PK962 would be an easier
fit).
That's a neat method, I went old school with a sliding tensioner. Moved the Alternator to the other side for lack of space. Description
quote:Originally posted by Oddified
Made up a new stud (replaces an existing one in the front cover), Range rover P38 aircon tensioner, 6PK955 (although a 6PK962 would be an easier
fit).
what are you using for water pump?
I'm about to fit an aJ30 engine and 221 gearbox to my TVR.
I'm looking for inspiration regarding Throttle Body and ECU
I can’t see any reason why the Oem waterpump won’t work. It runs of one of the cams on the back of the engine in the Mondeo. Rocketeer use a Craig
Davies electric pump on a very nice custom bracket.
I’ve seen two of these dyno’d on aftermarket engine management and neither made loads more than standard.
quote:Originally posted by big_wasa
I can’t see any reason why the Oem waterpump won’t work. It runs of one of the cams on the back of the engine in the Mondeo. Rocketeer use a Craig
Davies electric pump on a very nice custom bracket.
I’ve seen two of these dyno’d on aftermarket engine management and neither made loads more than standard.
I just think the original ecu will have lots of items not connected when installed in my old(ish) TVR and so give headache in overcoming - happy with
about 240bhp
but at the same time something like an Emerald k6 adds the best part of £1000
Only thing is, the mondeo doesn't have the vvt. And yes if you where nearer I would be up for doing one Duratec 30 loom as I don't always
get around to fitting the engine into anything. Once I've played with it I get bored and start as new one.
Very nice, great job. Is the ecoboost 1.6 next on the list :-) !
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1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
but 30 deg or not I found a few hours to get the Zetec drained
and stripped of the stand and bunged the Duratec 30 on so it was easier to move. Mounting points where only around 13mm further apart. 
). 
) 
