Major Stare
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 posted on 27/5/06 at 01:10 PM |
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Fuel rails
Just wondered what people used for fuel rails.
I need a fuel rail as the bike rail isnt suitable - beyond repair !!!!
Called Jenvey and they wanted to know measurements (x-Flow inlet manifold), told them 90mm - 100mm - 90mm. Then injector cups might be a problem and
they only make them with JIC conectors.
What did eveeryone else do ??
Jon "FISH"
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ady8077
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| posted on 27/5/06 at 02:49 PM |
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Hi
I've bought some from here
http://www.americanv8engines.co.uk/shop/index.php?cPath=23&osCsid=f34354ddb0f19ca9898c894ff706051c
The plan is to thread both ends and fit hose tails, then drill holes for the injectors
Adrian
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Major Stare
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| posted on 27/5/06 at 08:41 PM |
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Drill holes for injectors. You will then need "cups" for the injectors, do you have a brasing tool?
Jon "FISH"
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 27/5/06 at 11:08 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Major Stare
Drill holes for injectors. You will then need "cups" for the injectors, do you have a brasing tool?
No, you don't need injector bosses with that type of fuel rail. The bottom section has enough material thickness that you can get enough depth
to seal the injector O ring without having to drill/mill all the way through. They are alloy AFAIK so brazing would be tricky anyway.
I have seen a few fuel rails made from 15mm copper pipe, the T pieces are apparently a good fit around some injectors, though not convinced it's
a particularly great solution myself.
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MikeR
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| posted on 28/5/06 at 09:58 AM |
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There is an issue with copper pipe that some of the copper leaches into the fuel and then can get deposited on the injector. This then bungs up the
injector. It has been raised on here quite recently.
Of course the debate on how long you've got till the injector is fubar'd was inconclusive but no car manufacturer uses copper any more
& they 'invented' a new alloy to replace it. This information came from two industry sources - one being a poster on here who's
i think was a chemist working on fuel systems and the other my mate who designs fuel systems for a living.
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 28/5/06 at 11:57 AM |
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Are you saying that copper is actualy soluable in fuel?
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MikeR
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| posted on 28/5/06 at 02:15 PM |
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I'm saying that other people have said a tiny amount of copper will get leached into the fuel, this then gets deposited onto the injector.
Do a search, it was about a month ago.
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ady8077
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| posted on 28/5/06 at 02:17 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Major Stare
Drill holes for injectors. You will then need "cups" for the injectors, do you have a brasing tool?
Hi
The rails thick enough to drill a 13mm hole about 10mm deep and then a 6mm hole all the way through into the hollow section
Adrian
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MikeR
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| posted on 28/5/06 at 02:38 PM |
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here you go, don't say i'm not nice 
link to previous locostbuilders thread on copper fuel lines
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Syd Bridge
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| posted on 28/5/06 at 05:19 PM |
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There's an awful lot of bunkum posted on this forum, and that bit about copper getting deposited on the injectors has got to rate near the top
for degree.
I've got a harbour full of boats near me, and every one will have copper fuel lines, as does nearly every boat in existence.
Seen the price of copper lately? That's why oem's don't use it. Plastic is cheaper than the steel, and both are way cheaper than
copper. Multiply the savings per car by a few hundred thousand per year and you'll end up with savings in the £Millions.
Also, it has been shown that copper 'can' (maybe,) develop cracks due to work hardening with time. I've never seen it happen, and
the vibration in boats would surely do this if it were to happen at all.
I use Monel(cupro/nickel) on personal stuff, and steel or aluminium alloys at work.
Cheers,
Syd.
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MikeR
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| posted on 29/5/06 at 01:30 PM |
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Don't know about other cars, but i do know the BMW mini uses a special alloy that is then plastic coated - i know cause i've got 5 lines
in my garage from my mate.
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Syd Bridge
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| posted on 29/5/06 at 04:52 PM |
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Probably plastic over zinc plated annealed steel.
Available from Tube & Pipe Group in Basingstoke, among other places. They supply a number of the oem suppliers.
Cheers,
Syd.
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Major Stare
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| posted on 29/5/06 at 08:29 PM |
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Think i'll give one of these a go as
recomended previously.
Then buy some new drill bits and make sure i have a steady hand  
Jon "FISH"
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ady8077
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| posted on 29/5/06 at 09:50 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Major Stare
Think i'll give one of these a go as
recomended previously.
Then buy some new drill bits and make sure i have a steady hand
Hi
I bought the dash 6, the website says he sells it in 300mm lengths but i emailed him and he sold me a 400mm piece. As for drilling, a pillar drill is
probably best 
Adrian
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 29/5/06 at 10:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ady8077
As for drilling, a pillar drill is probably best
Essential I'd say, and preferably with some kind of stop to control depth, though this could be as simple as a bit of close fitting tube slid
over the drill bit.
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Major Stare
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| posted on 30/5/06 at 07:26 AM |
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quote:
As for drilling, a pillar drill is probably best
Something else to buy for the garage
Jon "FISH"
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