Lars
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posted on 19/3/08 at 06:50 PM |
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Making inlet manifold
I am having another go tomorrow at making an inlet manifold to match zetec to r1 tb's.
And, of course, I have a couple of questions:
1. Is there some sort of metal filler that I can use to fill bends in the manifold tubes and therefore smooth the flow to the engine?
2. What is the best way to smooth the inside of the manifold tubes?
I currently have some sort of drill attachment that is meant to grind metal, but seems to struggle with anything that is not ali.
Are the cutting discs for the dremel any good?
Lars
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pewe
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posted on 19/3/08 at 07:16 PM |
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You could do worse than visit www.guycroft.com - he has been tuning and modifying engines (incl. F1's) for years and there's lots of
useful info. on there.
Cheers, Pewe
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r1_pete
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posted on 19/3/08 at 07:22 PM |
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Coozer's is one of the best I've seen..
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whitestu
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posted on 19/3/08 at 08:16 PM |
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For my ZX6R carbs I've used the bike carb rubbers attached to a manifold plate bolted to the head.
The manifold length is shorter than is ideal, but it works [so far] and is easy / cheap to do.
For mine it cost £20 to make.
I'm sure you could do the same with TBs.
Stu
[Edited on 19/3/08 by whitestu]
[Edited on 19/3/08 by whitestu]
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lsdweb
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posted on 19/3/08 at 08:56 PM |
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How about buying an ST170 manifold? Got to be just as cheap and far easier!
The R1 TB's will fit straight on. You can also then use twin injectors if you wanted too!
Wyn
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Lars
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posted on 19/3/08 at 09:31 PM |
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I have already bought an inlet manifold plate and some 2" pipe which is the same diameter as the R1 TBs. (and i have the rubbers as well).
The problem is that I need some sort of funnel to make this fit to the manifold plate, as the 2" pipe is much larger than the zetec inlet.
I will therefore have to weld something up, which will need smoothing afterwards. (If that makes sense)
Wyn, I did have a look for ST170 manifolds a while ago, but could not find anything cheap.
Lars
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jacko
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posted on 19/3/08 at 10:16 PM |
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Hi have a look in my photos under zx9r carbs and manifold
[Edited on 19/3/08 by jacko]
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Lars
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posted on 19/3/08 at 10:27 PM |
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Jacko
So can I use brazing as a way to smooth/fill the pipe bends?
Did the rotary file work well?
Lars
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jacko
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posted on 19/3/08 at 10:34 PM |
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it is a steel manifold you are making ?
yes you can braze it that is what i did .
The rotory file worked well + i used a round sanding wheel to finish off
Graham
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Lars
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posted on 19/3/08 at 10:38 PM |
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I have got a mild steel plate, but stainless 2" tubes.
I don't know anything about brazing, can I just get some fluxed rods and use these with my handheld torch? (as I am not using it for any
structural joints)
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jacko
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posted on 19/3/08 at 10:43 PM |
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Yes but i dont know how good braze will be on stainless steel
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Lars
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posted on 19/3/08 at 10:48 PM |
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I shall test it tomorrow.
Thanks for your help.
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jacko
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posted on 19/3/08 at 10:54 PM |
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Just done a google and found a web
BT brazing & welding 304l s/ steel have a read it may help you
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Lars
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posted on 19/3/08 at 11:23 PM |
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found the website.
Sounds like I should have stuck with mild steel.
I'll see what I can find instore tomorrow.
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MikeRJ
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posted on 19/3/08 at 11:39 PM |
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If you are thinking about using brass/bronze filler rods you won't get far trying to braze with a standard blow lamp. You really need something
a fair bit hotter (preferably oxy-acetylene).
I managed to do some silver soldering with my blow lamp, but it was only just hot enough.
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lsdweb
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posted on 20/3/08 at 07:22 AM |
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Lars - people have realised that there is a market for ST170 manifolds with us 'kit' builders so prices are bumped up immediately!
I bought mine from the States -
link
THere's one on eBay
here but pricey!
Best of luck!
Regards
Wyn
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Lars
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posted on 20/3/08 at 08:13 AM |
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Wyn
How sure are you that the R1 TBs will bolt straight on?
The pipe looks a little small, I need these to be 2".
Also, it may just be the pictures, but it doesn't look like the outside tubes on the manifold converge enough for the TBs.
Lars
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mark chandler
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posted on 20/3/08 at 03:48 PM |
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Why use something as hard as braze? plumbers solder or lead will be fine, it will never get hot enough to melt it.
Both these have the advantage that with a bit of tallow on leather you can smooth over while in a plastic state, just mind those pinkies.
If you want convincing, how many cars have plastic manifolds these days, I bet you can melt a ball of solder through these with ease.
Some of the tuning books I have also talk about using expoxy resin.
Regards Mark
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Lars
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posted on 20/3/08 at 05:06 PM |
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I was thinking about that today while in browsing brazing rods.
I was not worried about temperature, but was not sure how these put up with fuel.
Would fuel cause any problems?
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lsdweb
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posted on 20/3/08 at 06:28 PM |
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Lars
I've tried my R1 TB's roughly and they seem about right They will need spacing out but you won't need to worry about a fuel rail
(the difficult bit of spacing) as you can use the ST injectors and rail.
I'll try them again tomorrow to check sizes etc.
Wyn
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Lars
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posted on 20/3/08 at 10:46 PM |
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my TBs cannot be spaced, I would need to cut them apart.
Maybe I should have gone for the GSXR ones after all.
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lsdweb
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posted on 22/3/08 at 09:52 AM |
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quote:
my TBs cannot be spaced, I would need to cut them apart.
Ah! Which model R1 are they off? Mine are from the 5PW I think, and they are individual ones.
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Lars
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posted on 22/3/08 at 10:08 AM |
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Mine are from a 2005, and are split into 2 pairs. (like the weber 40,45, etc)
Individual ones would definitely seem easier.
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violentblue
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posted on 30/3/08 at 12:28 AM |
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mine are in pairs as well, I just made a spacer out of aluminium on my lathe.
still have to figure out the linkage between them though.
I had my plate cut on a cnc mill, and I'm cutting the runners on the lathe, and then squishing the ends in a vise. its all being done in
Aluminium.
a few pics of my other projects
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lsdweb
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posted on 1/4/08 at 08:13 PM |
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Lars
I'm looking for a pair of 5VY throttle bodies for my spare engine. You could sell them to me and buy a set of individual bodies (5PW?).
Regards
Wyn
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