filstu
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 posted on 26/10/19 at 11:37 AM |
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yeah i have all sensors and actuators apart from purge canister. i will get a used one and just connect it behind the dash as you suggest. i dont
think i ground the clutch, i will have to do that.
think i may have an air leak and that could be causing fast running.
car isn't on the road yet so cant do a compare coolant temp senor still causing grief, have ordered another today
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filstu
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| posted on 26/10/19 at 11:44 AM |
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sorry, 1 more question, is the Evap canister switched ground or live? (pin 55 to 2 on evap canister, pin 1 to + or -ve)
cheers
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big_wasa
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| posted on 26/10/19 at 04:32 PM |
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It's a switched earth. So 12v to one side and the ecu earths the other.
Re temp sensor. Obd2 reader should show if it's reading ambient then stick it in a jug of hot water and see what it says.
Air leaks, go around the tb and manifold and check. Brake servo port ect.
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filstu
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| posted on 27/10/19 at 10:07 AM |
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yeah, did that, thats how i know the new one was wrong. ordered one for an older zetec so will see if that works.
thanks again
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daviesport
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| posted on 17/4/20 at 09:56 PM |
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Starting to attemp the wiring
Hello newbie here im just starting to attemp to wire my st170 engine into a mk 4 escort van and so far this link has been amazing must say a huge
thankks to big_wasa in the great information
i have one main question the 12v+ side of the sensors and ecu im guessing is a ignition switched live the only permanent 12v+ is the KAM pin and 12v+
to the pats led on the dash?
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big_wasa
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| posted on 18/4/20 at 06:00 AM |
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Yep, 
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daviesport
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| posted on 18/4/20 at 06:42 PM |
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Thanks again big_wasa
Been a productive day spent all afternoon going through the full focus wiring loom following the required wires bac and cutting them there they
terminated i think i have all the relevent wires now
3 things i have picked up this afternoon is my DLC/OBD plug wiring is different to the diagram back at the start and 2 wires from the PATS reciever a
black/yellow tracer and a green/black tracer, am i correct in thinking that the black is an reg/earth and the green a switched 12v+. also i have a
single pin plug connector on the loom beside the MAF sensor and the coil plug i cant work out where it came from and where it should go
any help will be greatly accepted
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big_wasa
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| posted on 18/4/20 at 06:57 PM |
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Re the transceiver, yep.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 18/4/20 at 06:59 PM |
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DLC, different to this ?
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big_wasa
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| posted on 18/4/20 at 07:02 PM |
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Single pin plug.
Is it a mini timer housing ( like an injector ) if so it’s for a suppressor that mounts on the side of the coil bracket.
Only other single pin plug I can think off of the top of my head is the low oil warning light. It’s in the harness.
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daviesport
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| posted on 18/4/20 at 07:27 PM |
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Yeah my DLC is wired slightly diffrent than the above picture
i dont have a pin 14 but i do have a pin 7 while/black trace
the plug is similar to the oil pressure plug bit its on the part of the loom that has the coil plug the MAF plug and an earth point
thanks for the help its very much appreciated
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FamilyGuy
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| posted on 18/4/20 at 07:27 PM |
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Could be the connector for the starter motor solenoid of it's not the oil pressure switch. Oil pressure switch has a think black and orange wire
on it, starter solenoid connector has a thicker gauge grey wire.
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daviesport
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| posted on 18/4/20 at 07:37 PM |
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That sounds like it im sure its a grey wire will have a look on the starter loom tomorrow and see if they match up
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big_wasa
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| posted on 18/4/20 at 07:50 PM |
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Yeh I forgot about the starter solenoid wire
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daviesport
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| posted on 18/4/20 at 07:52 PM |
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any ideas on the DLC plug? its got me stumped
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big_wasa
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| posted on 18/4/20 at 07:56 PM |
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Did the dlc come from an st170 ?
It looks like a Can-bus wire. Whilst not fully Can compliant it still uses some of its functions between moduals.
The plug does have wires for other moduals like Abs. I just don’t include them.
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daviesport
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| posted on 18/4/20 at 08:04 PM |
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Cheers will leave it out and see what happens and if my code readers read the ecu
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big_wasa
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| posted on 18/4/20 at 08:12 PM |
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As long as you have got the main bus to read you will be fine.
If you find you want it, hit me up after lock down and I will send you the missing pin.
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daviesport
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| posted on 18/4/20 at 08:18 PM |
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Im sure i can get the pins from my work as i fit the driver safety aids to new HGV lorry’s reverse cameras side view cames proximity sensors etc do
you have a code for the pins was thinking of making a full custom loom from the ecu so it looks like its part of the OEM electrics rather than just
having a huge mass of wire throughout the engine bay
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Ghostrider1911
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| posted on 25/5/20 at 07:34 AM |
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Hello big Wasa!
I am from Germany and currently i am fitting an ST170 OEM Ecu to my Westfield SE.
I just want to say a very big thank you! This Thread is so helpfull.
Maybe you know what the difference between the ST170 ECU´s is?
I have 2 ECU´s here, one 3NFA and one 3NFD.
Wiring seems the same, so i dont have a clue.
The Wiring Schematics sometimes are cunfusing, your List makes it much easier.
Does somebody here set the MAF to another Place? I heard they are very sensitive to this. But my Air Filter must go on another Place than the OEM
Focus one.
Maybe someone here had experience with this already?
Ps: Sorry for my bad english.
Greetings.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 25/5/20 at 08:31 AM |
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Your English is better than my German.
I’ve never had a problem moving the maf but I’ve never moved it considerably.
Where are you thinking of putting it ?
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Ghostrider1911
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| posted on 25/5/20 at 08:43 AM |
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Thank you for your answer 
Actually i am not sure where i want to move it.
Maybe at the right side of the engine, so the air filter is to the outside of the car.
But my space is really limited. I think today i will finish my cables and try some things out (check sensors etc.)
For that i can really say that FORScan is a good tool with diagnostic, i can see a lot of values, much more that with standart obd tool.
I logged the Values with the engine in the car, so i can compare between the OEM values and the Values in the Wesftfield.
So if i have much less ignition advance (for example) or lot less mass air flow, i know there is something wrong with my install.
I hope you can understand what my ideas are
Greetings
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Ghostrider1911
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| posted on 29/5/20 at 05:30 AM |
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Hello there!
I finally wired all together and yesterday i could make a test drive.
So far drives great! There are issues, but it drives real nice.
I have some P-Codes in ECU, maybe you can give me tips:
P1000 - How long do you drive until this error dissappears? I think this comes up because ECU has to "learn"
Ecu says that my High speed Relais is broken, i will wire an resistor to it, so it thinks the relais is ok.
After Kat O2 Sensor, i actually have not wired ab an after KAT O2 Sensor, do i need one? I tested in OEM Focus, Tacho goes to Check Engine Light, but
could not feel any difference in driving.
When i press the clutch, the rpm holds for ~1 s, this is a bit weird to shift.
I have not wired the following things:
-VSS
-AC Switches and Clutch
-Clutch Switch
-Power Steering pressure switch
I have looked up in the Schematics, and i have seen that open circuit for power steering switch means High pressure, so maybe ecu thinks there should
be more load on the engine. Maybe i just wire it to GND? What do you think about it?
Maybe someone here knows what ECU actually does with VSS Signal?
So many questions from me
But i am to thankfull to you guys! Without your experience i think i never would have tried to get it running with OEM ECU.
Greetings
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Ghostrider1911
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| posted on 6/6/20 at 10:31 AM |
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Hello again!
i just wanted to share my experience, so maybe someone here can do something with it:
-Servo Pressure Transducer must be wired to GND (Not Sensor GND, Vehicle GND), if it is not wired to GND, then when you shift the RPM drops very
slowly. (If you want it to hold rpm after press clutch, then leave open) For me it is much better feeling if it is wired to GND.
-All wires that have to do with AC can be left open, no problems with that.
-If you use the original Alternator (ECU Controlled) then the return to idle is much smoother. I first used an DENSO alternator from an Daihatso
(40A), but now i use the original 110A one. In my Westfield it is really tight to fit, but operates much better and has an automatic belt tightener.
If you dont use the original Alternator the revs drop to low and then stabilsize after clutch pressing.
-For now i cant get the VSS to work. I tried to wire it to T9 VSS Sensor, but it doesnt really work. Firstly ECU has a really low speed reading (about
10kmh) but after some drive it has an P-Code that says VSS Sensor is broken.
-ECU MUST have permanent live, wenn you disconnect battery it looses all adaptions etc. These take really long to be complete. I am not really shure,
but i think if after cat O2 Sensor is left open, ecu doesn´t complete adaptions. So i am going to fit after cat O2 Sensor with O2 Eliminator.
-In original Focus ST170 the idle RPM is hold at 1100 while driving and clutch pressed. I will find out if with VSS this is made in my westfield to or
if i have to fit clutch pedal Switch. For now i can´t see any function the clutch pedal switch does. Maybe rev limiter is lower with clutch pressed? I
haven´t tried this.
-For High speed fan relais i fitted an 100 Ohm Resistor (5W), no P-Code in the Ecu anymore.
-For EVAP i fitted an 50 Ohm Resistor (10W) i also have no more P-Code in the Ecu
My Goal is to drive without any P-Code in the Ecu.
I also have one Question for you guys:
-I have P-Code P1000, after my research this means that i have to drive a while to complete adaptions etc. But how long does it take until this p-code
disappears? Maybe someone here knows?
I hope this here helps some one Just wanted to share my experience.
I first had fitted aftermarket ecu with individual throttle bodies. But it drives so much smoother with OEM hardware. In my opinion ITB is only for
guys who are searching for top hp in high revs, in low revs range the drivability is just bad.
Here you can see my loom:
[Edited on 6/6/20 by Ghostrider1911]
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big_wasa
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| posted on 6/6/20 at 11:06 AM |
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The clutch circuit is a normally closed circuit. It’s job is to up the rpm a touch to stop you stalling it when depressing the clutch ( or so I
believe ) so connect this to the chassis earth.
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