sardsnz
|
| posted on 19/8/13 at 08:47 AM |
|
|
Hey fantastic info, very helpful! Can the OWLS ECU be used on a blactop zetec or does it need a OWL5 ECU?
|
|
|
|
|
big_wasa
|
| posted on 19/8/13 at 08:58 AM |
|
|
If you use the silver top sensors.
|
|
|
sardsnz
|
| posted on 19/8/13 at 09:34 AM |
|
|
Great thankyou, I bought a OWLS ECU, transponder and key when I guess I should have got a OWL5. It gets very confusing when they name the ECU's
with very similar names! I had a older DEEP ECU wired up but the engine will only backfire with no hint of starting, so hopefully I will have better
luck with the OWLS. Are the silvertop sensors I need for my blacktop the MAF, HEGO, camshaft and crankshaft?
|
|
|
big_wasa
|
| posted on 19/8/13 at 09:53 AM |
|
|
Maf and air temp along with tps are the most important. O2, crank and cam you will be fine with the black top bits. Deep desk and dewy would also run
it fine if wired correctly with the silver top sensors.
|
|
|
pekwah1
|
| posted on 29/10/13 at 08:13 PM |
|
|
Hi,
Good guide!
Do you know anything about the BASH ECU?
I assume the principle is the same?
|
|
|
big_wasa
|
| posted on 29/10/13 at 08:32 PM |
|
|
2.0 Black top mondeo, think its a manual. Same principal as you say and may be identical to the owl5. Just compare the wiring if you have the loom.
|
|
|
pekwah1
|
| posted on 29/10/13 at 09:33 PM |
|
|
Yeah its a blacktop from a 1999 mondeo.
I've got the whole car, just removed the engine and removing loom at the moment.
ill check it against your pinouts once it's out!
|
|
|
pekwah1
|
| posted on 30/10/13 at 08:29 PM |
|
|
Well for anyone who's thinking of doing this, my "BASH" ecu seems to have exactly the same wiring on the plug as per the blacktop
diagram, i'll start taking apart the wiring and see how it goes when i come to fit!
Cheers warren
|
|
|
big_wasa
|
| posted on 30/10/13 at 08:47 PM |
|
|
No problems, drop me a pm if you need any further info to complete.
|
|
|
pekwah1
|
| posted on 30/10/13 at 09:04 PM |
|
|
Cheers warren.
Just wanting to check i have everything i need....
ECU
Loom (as much as i can rip out of the car)
Ignition barrel thingy and the green connector
Fuel pump relay
Inhibitor Relay
Is there anything else i will need from the car to get the beast up and running?
|
|
|
big_wasa
|
| posted on 30/10/13 at 09:33 PM |
|
|
Relays, just pull them all.
You want the obd2 plug from under the steering wheel.
The ignition barrel will fit a Sierra column.
|
|
|
big_wasa
|
| posted on 30/10/13 at 09:35 PM |
|
|
I don't bother with the full loom unless you need the spare wire. From the ecu upto the 42 pin plug is all I bother with.
|
|
|
pekwah1
|
| posted on 30/10/13 at 09:41 PM |
|
|
cool, i've already got that loom removed, so i don't need anything further back from that plug then?
well apart from the immobiliser ring thingy...
|
|
|
spegru
|
| posted on 2/11/13 at 07:17 PM |
|
|
Hi I've been following this with interest, using a BASH ECU, fitting the Zetec into a Dutton.
I used the GBS sportscars plenum chamber so as not to have problems with the steering column.
I got the whole PATS thing sorted out using a key that matched the ECU itself.
It Runs!
But I have problem. It wont idle at all and it only seems to run cleanly above about 3000 rpm. Also here is quite alot of exhaust smoke/smell (enough
to trigger my smoke alarm in the garage)
It's not the lack of Idle control valve I think because I'm carefully opening the throttle by hand, and it seems to go down to less than 4
cylinders, or at least very rough, as soon as you get to a lower engine speed.
I wondered if I could have fitted the flywheel one bolt position wrong,messing with the ignition timing, but I've read that this is impossible
as the bolt holes don't line up any other way - but is that true?
I even wondered about cam timing because the engine came from a scrap yard and you never know why it got in there in the first place: could have been
someone who messed up a cam belt change? - but that seems a bit unlikely really.
All the normal sensors such as MAF, Temperature, Lambda and TPS are connected (although its so rough that disconnecting them seems to make little
difference)
I didn't connect the alternator, speed sensor or clutch sensor connections to the ECU though.
I got the OBD code reader working and it does show two errors
P0443 - which seems to be Idle air control fault - presumably because I havn't got an idle control valve, but I don't think it's
that - see above
P1504 - Which seems to be Evap emission control valve for the fuel tank - presumably because I havn't got one
Those don't seem that relevant
I'm pretty much out of ideas now. Can anyone help please?
[Edited on 2/11/13 by spegru]
|
|
|
spegru
|
| posted on 3/11/13 at 11:30 AM |
|
|
It's fixed! Just typical after asking for help....
I decided to investigate air leaks in the intake system - and importantly also to do this in daylight.
Took off the injector rail and started to remove the GBS plenum.
Then, Bingo! An unconnected tube for crank case breather in the back side plenum was spotted. I'd had the rail off previous day and not seen it
(daylight is good!).
Then Bingo2! My son spotted an unused threaded boss also on the back of the plenum, presumably for intake temp or whatever when using non OEM ECUs
Two great big air leaks!
Blocked up both, put it back together and now it's running like a pussycat!
Moral of the story: Don't assume that such problems are necessarily because of something wrong in the ECU wiring!
|
|
|
spegru
|
| posted on 3/11/13 at 09:35 PM |
|
|
Thanks so much to big_wasa and turnipfarmer for all this work.
To summarise, it all works using their wiring info and the BASH ECU.
It was a relief to get it going be honest. I had completely forgotten about those spare plenum connections because it was months ago that I fitted it
and only a couple of weeks since I really started to try to fire it up.
I managed to use an original Ford throttle body (has to be focus, not mondeo, because the mounting flange is thinner) and I also managed to clean out
the araldite stuff from throttle stop screw so that eventually I was able to unscrew it with an allen key so that I can use it as and old fashioned
idle speed adjuster.
It also idles very smoothly, but then I also have the original mondeo 2l flywheel. I reckon you could actually connect up the idle control valve with
a bit of jiggery pokery, maybe using that spare boss on the plenum. and a plate fixed to the back of the valve with a couple of tubes attached - but I
don't think I'll bother right now.
FYI as well as a standard 2litre flywheel, I also used a standard mondeo clutch plate, but I modified the clutch release arm to make the release
bearing come closer to the flywheel, as it's all a bit slimmer than the one from a sierra.
The only down side from the way I did it was that the GBS plenum chamber makes it difficult to fit a standard alternator, and so I had to buy the GBS
alternator kit too - which probably brings the cost close to actual weber style throttle bodies. Still I definitely saved the cost of the ECU!
Another time I'd investigate plenum alternatives further.
thanks and good luck to all!
[Edited on 3/11/13 by spegru]
|
|
|
big_wasa
|
| posted on 4/11/13 at 08:23 PM |
|
|
That's good.
I didn't get a chance to post over the weekend, busy busy.
Poor running with the standard set up. I always look for an air leak first.
The idle vale is easy to plumb in. Only thing is, the Maf must see the total air flow inc the idle bypass. There are some pics some where on how I did
mine.
When in use on the road you can expect three or four fault codes plus another for no idle valve. none should give you any bother.
|
|
|
pekwah1
|
| posted on 10/3/14 at 11:59 AM |
|
|
For anyone else doing this conversion, i also found this really useful in conjuction with Wasa's guide:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/47/viewthread.php?tid=183643
|
|
|
pekwah1
|
| posted on 10/3/14 at 02:37 PM |
|
|
I'm guessing this is a question for Wasa....
I'm just at the stage of hooking up all the wiring loom to my car.
the ECU plug simply goes off to all the individual connectors and the big 42 pin connector.
From what i can tell, it's only the 42 pin connector that then goes anywhere.
I've still got this in my loom, so can i just hook up to the wires out of this connector to power the ECU and connect everything else i need?
Cheers,
Andy
[Edited on 10/3/14 by pekwah1]
|
|
|
pekwah1
|
| posted on 10/3/14 at 02:45 PM |
|
|
Sorry after reading my last post, maybe not too clear.
What i'm trying to work out is exactly what wires do i need to connect with my existing loom?
I.e. lives/earths etc.
|
|
|
AlbertaSafari
|
| posted on 7/5/14 at 05:46 AM |
|
|
CVH 1600 EDIS to Stock Focus Black Top 2L Conversion
Great info and post Big Wasa!
I have a 1994 Japanese JDM factory built Westfield SEIW with the 1600 CVH with DCOE carbs and the distributor-less coil pack setup (Ford EDIS). I will
be transplanting the CVH to a Zetec 2.0 Black Top that I have purchased. I will be transferring the flywheel, etc. It would be easy to just transfer
the DCOE 40's with a new intake manifold, but I like the response and reliability of the stock Ford injection system, plus I really want to
eventually run a turbo setup. I was convinced to go injection originally thinking that Westfield would have a conversion cross-over loom, but this
is looking more and more like a major project. It seems that most guys, Westfield included, run multiple throttle body injection (Webcon, Alpha,
Jenvy, etc), rather than the stock Ford system. Consequently, I am reconsidering running the DCOE setup due to cost and simplicity of the conversion.
Obviously I am trying to do this on a tight budget, so aftermarket ECU's are out of the question... Yes it looks like I can run the stock Ford
injection up to about 10psi with the stock ECU and aftermarket injectors. I am not looking to build a 300hp turbo monster, but I should be able to
reliably hit 180-200hp with my mild turbo setup with the stock Ford injection system... assuming I can get the stock injection to work
How hard is it to transfer the Black Top Focus/Escort(Canada) or Mondeo ECU to my system? It looks like a major project, relays, fuel pump, fuel pump
relay, fuel pump control module, PATS (Depending on year), etc. I have heard that it is easier if you already have the EDIS system in place, but how
much easier? Do I need the complete Black Top Focus/Escort(Canada) or Mondeo wiring loom, or just part of it. Can I make it fairly plug and play, or
will I have to redo my complete loom. If so, I may be going the DCOE route.
Any help, instructions, or advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
Zach
|
|
|
sardsnz
|
| posted on 29/6/14 at 12:36 PM |
|
|
3000rpm idle
I have a problem with my blacktop zetec on owl5 factory ecu, it is idling at about 3000 rpm! If I disconnect the battery the first start will idle
normally (around 1000rpm) but any starts after that it is idling at 3000. Have checked for error codes with laptop but nothing obvious just (0443 1401
& 1409 codes). Have left car to idle for half an hour, after first start to see if that helps but no luck, car is only drivable at slow speed due
to no brakes at the moment, not sure if the ecu needs to learn idle with a proper drive? It could just be I have mixed up some wires, but everything
seems to be ok, have run out of ides???
|
|
|
spegru
|
| posted on 24/7/14 at 10:06 AM |
|
|
Slow response: maybe you have it fixed by now.....
However are you using the factory Idle control valve? If not, then what are you using to control idle speed & what throttle bodies are you
using?
I used the Focus Mk1 style to go with the GBS plenum chamber but I had to dig out the glue in the throttle position stop in order to adjust idle speed
as I was not using the Idle control valve.
On the other hand if you are saying that it wont idle unless it's revved to 3000 then I'd have to diagnose an air leak in the
plenum or inlet manifold
spegru
|
|
|
scottie
|
| posted on 10/2/15 at 06:00 PM |
|
|
thanks great info here
im trying to use everything from a mondeo on my set up, including the alternator, is this possible ?
|
|
|
big_wasa
|
| posted on 10/2/15 at 08:39 PM |
|
|
Yep but be aware the oem alternator has the smart charge system so don't use a standard lead acid battery as they don't like the higher
voltage.
|
|
|
