So I finally have it running. Stil only up to 20 sec because it is still without coolant.
When with coolant I will hang the Odb2 and see if there are any Faillure messages.
Keep you informed.
Small update: the engine is running well.
Have two questions and hope you can help.
1. The hose thet is inbetween the air intake and the airchamber below the cilinders (you had closed this part). I'm having a high vacuum that
the hose closes itself. Is that ok?
2. Trying to connect a digidash2 lite. Have to connet the tacho to the ecu. Read that pin 48 is for the tacho in many forums but that is only for the
zetec ecu. Is there a pin on the st170 that does the trick? Have been searching the web but no succes until now.
2) it's all done by can bus on the St will your dash read can bus ? You could take a trigger from the coil but it's wasted spark so your
dash will need to half it.
Question, which cable of the ecu should have permanent 12v. At the moment i'm switching all power on with the ignition switch. So no blinking of
the led before I turn the key.
Other thing I can't understand. When i drive and keep the engine at a continious rpm it stutters. When i accelerate absolutely no problem.
During driving when i lift the gaspedal at 3000rpm and push the clutch to get the engine back to Idle it shuts down.
Tried to find why the block breader hose is collapsing but still no clue.
On page one mate pin 55, wire will be orange or red. Referred to as KAM keep alive memory. The ecu learns some perimeters you will be resetting this
every time you start the engine with out.
View as much live data as you can via the obd2 port. If all sensors are giving sensible values most faulty running issues are down to air leaks. One I
looked at last week would not idle until I asked if the brake servo and other inlet ports had been blocked of. They hadn't so easy sorted.
I will check but I think the clutch switch may need earthing.
Had the 55 pin already connected to the battery. But see no blinking led. Then saw that the led also needed 12v ;o)
Have closed the the blockbreeder and the connections for the evaporation canister purge valve.
The brake servo is also closed but don't know if it is 100% shut. Will check on this.
I don't think I have a clutch switch.
Will keep going on.
Yesterday have done several a 0 to 60. It is dramatic. Took 8 sec. I think i'm missing a few horsepowers.
A little step forward.
Getting p1380 faillure code.
According to The web this is p1380 Variable Cam Timing Solenoid 'A' Circuit Condition.
Could this have something to do with the new cambelt I have installed? Have used the ford tool for this.
Have also installed an mil eliminator in the second O2 sensor.
Have got 12V and the other one is connected to pin45.
Just have seen that the imrc is pulling the lever back when starting but drops it within 2 sec. Im thinking that I still have a vacuum problem.
Getting p1380 and p1518
Only the p1518 disapeers after a few min.
hi all i have put the st170 lump in my mk3 escort was running it on a rs1800 efi inlet and a ford DEEP ecu but it was over fulling and no vvt working
i now have put the st inlet on with some mods as it was a pane to fit but now it is in i have cut the full loom rite down but is a bit to big to get
under my bonnet lol i cud do with a bit of help i need to get rid of the small fuse box but it wont run without it and the clocks but its hard for me
to understand the links his is wot i have got it down to at the min it is grate work you have dun with out yore info i wouldnt have got this far so
thanks
hi waza its all dun and in the loom is still a bit big but all is good thanks for yore info and work you have dun grate to c ppl doing good jobs i
have one small prob my IMRC plug do i wire it strate to the ecu ? imrc pin 4 to 03 ecu port white-red pin 3 to ecu pin 12 black-white got that part
but dont no the rest can you let me no please have a look at my pics and thanks agen moggy
Hi, I cut the looms up and make them fit what it's going in so every thing is direct to the ecu with no sub looms.
So yes you have two pins to the ecu I think you have two chassis earths from memory and a switch 12v supply. In the donor it's one of the few
plugs that's on the fuse box loom.
vacuum problem !!!! hi all i had the same its a week breather hose get some hard pipe as if you drive it it will smoke its titis off and bugger up ya
seals up!!!!! ok i put hard plastic pipe in side it on the bend and job dun hope this helps ok mate
The camshaft position sensor: i've it connected to pin 76 and 85 of the ECU. But get no voltage on those pins. Am assuming that this is possibly
my problem. Can anyone give me feedback on this?
From what I under stand you have taken the ecu loom along with the injector loom and the gearbox loom from the car with out the fuse box loom ?
So the wiring loom is un cut and unmodified ?
One thing to note is there is a separate earth from the ecu. This should not be earthed to the same point as the the other earths to avoid feed
back.
You have just provided the relevant earths lives and you would need things that are out side the loom such as Pats aerial+led , Imrc, fuel pump
driver ?
You have the obd2 connected and it is showing changing values for all the sensors ? One that will show no reading is the fuel pressure sensor on the
fuel rail.
So when its running you are seeing an rpm, tps %, Ho1 Ho2 (after closed loom ) Maf
Crank and Cam are polarity sensitive but if the loom is uncut you cant have them wrong ?
76 white/violet -- Cam position sensor pin 1.
85 brown/white -- camshaft position sensor pin 2.
There is a yellow wire on the tps and the fuel sensor check you have 5v on both.
Idle control valves have been known to seize make sure you can move the plunger.
Upload some pictures to your archive.
It cant be much, you are further on than most.
I am out today but if you want to go through it I will be on here tonight
Crank and Cam are polarity sensitive but if the loom is uncut you cant have them wrong: Wright, have connected the correct colours to each other, so
assume that ecu coloured wire and the uncut injector loom are the same. But have checked it with the beeper function on my multimeter.
other thing is that your connector picture does not correspond with my connector. So cannot confirm which of both is pin 1.
And this is the same with the connector of the IMRC. So have based the connections according to: imrc connection
I had mixed pin 1 and 3 on the connector of the IMRC.
Only on startup the IMRC is pulling to shortrun mode. After approx 1 min it shuts off and goes back to the longrun postion (so car shut down
position).
Have opened the IMRC according to the youtube movies. Cleaned the contact and it was not required to modify the spring attachment on the shaft.
Have got 5v on the tps and the fuel sensor.
Idle control valves, are fully functional.
Still have the P1380
And after a testrun I also got the P0720 missing speedo.
Ive been asked a couple of times about the imrc plug wiring that I missed from the original post. Due to the plug being fairly unique to just a few
models there is little info on the net so I had to find one and trace it back as I could not find my original notes.
grate thanks mate just tryed it now its working will take the escort out to moz and c wot its like the sound of the lump has gon very deep lol grate
thanks mate moggy
posted on 14/7/15 at 07:25 PM
