Chris_Xtreme
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posted on 23/9/16 at 07:09 PM |
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well, alternator is on it's way to the place I got it from for review.
I have run the car with out the alt in for about 30mins on the drive, not a single bit of noise to be heard through the alarm siren (no caps added to
the coils) and no resets. car got completely hot, fan kicked in etc etc, restarted it still no resets.
I really hope it is the alternator and I am kicking myself for not taking it completely out of the equation before as part of my testing!
here's hoping.
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britishtrident
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posted on 24/9/16 at 11:45 AM |
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Only real way to check an alternator for ripple is to connect an oscilloscope on the output voltage, but you can use the diode test setting and also
the AC voltage setting on a DVOM to give you some idea.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Chris_Xtreme
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posted on 3/10/16 at 07:17 PM |
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If I dare tempt fate it is looking possible that the alternator could be the culprit.
Aparantly a dodgy diode making the dash light not work all the time and perhaps crucially iirc 1 of the phases was off, creating noise.
Here's hoping. I should get it back by the end of the week.
Somewhere in the conversation heat was mentioned! Don't know what I'm gonna do about that!
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gremlin1234
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posted on 3/10/16 at 07:37 PM |
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quote: Aparantly a dodgy diode making the dash light not work all the time and perhaps crucially iirc 1 of the phases was off, creating
noise.
definitely then a likely cause of your problems, but the other work you have done can only help too -)
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scudderfish
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posted on 3/10/16 at 08:53 PM |
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Where is your alternator mounted? I don't recall seeing it in the standard Rover position.
Regards,
Dave
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Chris_Xtreme
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posted on 4/10/16 at 11:52 AM |
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if you can make it out from these -- not much room!
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scudderfish
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posted on 4/10/16 at 06:49 PM |
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Ah, same place as mine. I can't see why heat would be a problem there, below and in front of the exhaust manifolds and probably cold air coming
in from the underside. Does your alt have a small fan behind the pulley?
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Chris_Xtreme
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posted on 4/10/16 at 06:54 PM |
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No fan, it is one of those little denso ones.
It is pretty close to an exhaust pipe, so I can only think to put a shield of some sort between it and the exhaust.
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Chris_Xtreme
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posted on 18/10/16 at 03:56 PM |
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so alternator back, I thought all was good, a bit of noise still from when the fan kicks in, but no resets,.
went for a spin round the block, all seemed good.
next day went for a longer drive, some traffic jam, cut out once or twice... was it just me not putting my foot down enough - not sure, got to the
destination car park and it had a fit of stalling whilst parking up, got home again and it reset over and over on the drive.
I need to get tunerstudio back on to log it to make sure it is resets again and go through all my tests once more to see what could be causing it
now!
took the control wire off the o2 sensor in case that was being dodgy (ive seen the AFR bounce a bit too much for my liking) need to turn the EGO
adjust off in case it is just being bonkers and causing a stall really. Also going to swap the fan as I have another just in case.
it perhaps is no better with a fixed alternator !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! arg!!!!!!!!!!
so frustrating that with changing nothing is has got so much worse than it was when I drove it to France a year and a half ago.
must keep going -- in a way glad my 2 little kids leave me no time to be wanting to drive it each weekend!
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Jed
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posted on 18/10/16 at 04:40 PM |
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I doubt that my recent experience is of help but I'll mention it anyway.
I was struggling with poor running at low revs on my MS1 V3 and when I ran the tooth logging I could see dropouts or double missing teeth. When
opening the case to adjust the VR pots the problem went away. So I re-assemble it and the problem re-appeared. The coil drivers were mounted to the
inside of the case lid and it appeared that the wires to them were interfering with the VR circuitry so I ended up rerouting the wires to ensure they
stayed clear of the VR pots area of the PCB. So far it has been fine since.
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Chris_Xtreme
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posted on 18/10/16 at 04:43 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Jed
I doubt that my recent experience is of help but I'll mention it anyway.
I was struggling with poor running at low revs on my MS1 V3 and when I ran the tooth logging I could see dropouts or double missing teeth. When
opening the case to adjust the VR pots the problem went away. So I re-assemble it and the problem re-appeared. The coil drivers were mounted to the
inside of the case lid and it appeared that the wires to them were interfering with the VR circuitry so I ended up rerouting the wires to ensure they
stayed clear of the VR pots area of the PCB. So far it has been fine since.
thanks appreciate the thought.. I have ls2 coils so IIRC I am right in saying I don't have any drivers as they have the ignitors/drivers built
into the coils.
I'm going to do a toothed log and recheck that too - good idea.
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Chris_Xtreme
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posted on 21/11/16 at 03:57 PM |
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So,
def not the alternator at fault,
I have since tried running all sorts off a different battery, eg fan, water pump (and just had them running non stop) fuel pumps, coils any thing I
can think of that could bring some noise to the party... can't get rid of the problem.
I have now read and thought that, esp as it happens moreso when hot - and the bonnet is on that is could be the TPS signal, so I am going to try some
shielded wire on this.
Can someone recommend a 3 core, plus shield wire to use, that has a high, I would say 100degC plus rating?
make and model please
cheers, Chris
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BaileyPerformance
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posted on 21/11/16 at 05:04 PM |
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https://www.rapidonline.com/alpha-wire-2461c-sl005-data-transmission-cable-22awg-2-core-30-5m-reel-02-0881
i use this, 2 core and use screen for 0v
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Chris_Xtreme
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posted on 21/11/16 at 05:11 PM |
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nice one Dale, I saw another post where you had said something about using the screen as 0 / earth.. I'll give it a go, who knows it might be
the cause of my problems! The wires could have degraded over time, they do run close to the coils presently and are fora while on top of the rocker
cover and a water pipe etc...
I'm going to take it to from the tps, to the front of the car and then across and down the side under the exhausts, so it will be near the crank
sensor, but as that is shielded with this wire that we did when I was with you, hopefully they will both be fine!
cheers, Chris
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AntonUK
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posted on 21/11/16 at 05:17 PM |
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I used this
http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Screened_Cables.html
Ref: SCN0.5/3
Build Photos Here
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Chris_Xtreme
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posted on 21/11/16 at 10:56 PM |
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with 3 core, do you then just earth the shied to something near the tps and don't earth it at the MS end?
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BaileyPerformance
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posted on 22/11/16 at 10:45 AM |
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if you using 3 core plus screen then best just earth at MS end
If using 2 core plus screen then use the screen and the 0v for the TPS, and connect to the sensor ground at MS
:-)
If it looks like its TPS noise causing your issue (could be) you could remove the TPS off the throttle body, with its cable still connected and move
out of engine bay completely. The engine will still start and idle (if you dont touch throttle). Then see if the reset/stumble happens.
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Chris_Xtreme
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posted on 22/11/16 at 10:57 AM |
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cheers, I'll see which cable is the most cost effective and can cope with heat the best.
smart idea about taking the tps off - If I can get the wires out of the loom tube I can try that now... so much unravelling! but it could be degraded
wires so I may just spend the money and do the effort once... I'll see
thanks for the input.
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BaileyPerformance
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posted on 22/11/16 at 11:11 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by Chris_Xtreme
cheers, I'll see which cable is the most cost effective and can cope with heat the best.
smart idea about taking the tps off - If I can get the wires out of the loom tube I can try that now... so much unravelling! but it could be degraded
wires so I may just spend the money and do the effort once... I'll see
thanks for the input.
I know i have asked you this one, sorry, but are you sure you have all 3 wires for the TPS going directly back to the ECU - the 0v is straight onto
the 37w connector?
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Chris_Xtreme
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posted on 3/1/17 at 06:27 PM |
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"I know i have asked you this one, sorry, but are you sure you have all 3 wires for the TPS going directly back to the ECU - the 0v is straight
onto the 37w connector?"
Yes all three are back to the MS.
I have swapped the cable to 2 core + sheild and rerouted round the front of the car, so less heat and noise.. no change what so ever.. I am
stumped!
The MS seems to start resetting once it has got through the warm up cycle, everytime..
I measured the temp of the voltage regulators and or everything along the heat sink part and nothing was odd, it was freezing outside too. (using a
temperature gun with lazer pointer on it) nothing on the MS board seemed to get warm.
Could this be a software issue ? or a chip issue?
cheers all and Happy New Year!
Chris
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Chris_Xtreme
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posted on 17/2/17 at 02:14 PM |
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Well, I can't really believe this happened but I sold the car.
A Xtreme builder of 13yrs ago tracked the car down and even with it's issue wanted it.
It all happened really quickly, and I decided to not think about it, but think about the fact that I have had no time to try and fix it myself and
whilst the kids are little no holidays where I can get it anywhere to be looked at by an expert.
so that is that.
Dale especially and all, thank you for your help over the years in trying to fix this issue!
I managed to get what I wanted which was my conversion to EFI done and go on the SKCC trip to france (back in May 2015!) where it drove great (minor
hiccups)
My last proper drive in it was to Stonleigh last year on the Sunday where I parked it on the Quantum stand.
I'm not going anywhere, not that I was a frantic poster anyway! but I'll keep lurking!
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scudderfish
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posted on 17/2/17 at 05:17 PM |
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Do you want to buy mine?
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