MarcV
|
| posted on 14/5/13 at 09:48 AM |
|
|
Shouldn't be too hard to repair really. Not too sure about other damage though.
If you are really looking for a new one, you'd be better off getting it repaired and mapped imho. Offer sounds good.
|
|
|
|
|
Valtra
|
| posted on 15/5/13 at 12:58 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by MarcV
Shouldn't be too hard to repair really. Not too sure about other damage though.
If you are really looking for a new one, you'd be better off getting it repaired and mapped imho. Offer sounds good.
Does sound good but I fear it's not necessarily quite as straightforward . still pondering as it's well over 100 miles to trailer the car
and likely to take more than a day to complete . I, like most, have a set idea about where I am aiming and would be there by now but for a momentary
lapse of sense and care . 
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
|
|
|
BaileyPerformance
|
| posted on 15/5/13 at 09:48 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Valtra
quote:
Originally posted by MarcV
Shouldn't be too hard to repair really. Not too sure about other damage though.
If you are really looking for a new one, you'd be better off getting it repaired and mapped imho. Offer sounds good.
Does sound good but I fear it's not necessarily quite as straightforward . still pondering as it's well over 100 miles to trailer the car
and likely to take more than a day to complete . I, like most, have a set idea about where I am aiming and would be there by now but for a momentary
lapse of sense and care .
We have had folks travel from Ireland, Scotland, London and Jersey to get there megasquirts mapped properly, so 100miles is just around the corner!!
;-)
Full mapping (and minor correction - such as wiring) take 10AM - 6PM and costs £250. cheap!!
www.baileyperformance.co.uk
|
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
|
Valtra
|
| posted on 15/5/13 at 12:14 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by BaileyPerformance
quote:
Originally posted by Valtra
quote:
Originally posted by MarcV
Shouldn't be too hard to repair really. Not too sure about other damage though.
If you are really looking for a new one, you'd be better off getting it repaired and mapped imho. Offer sounds good.
Does sound good but I fear it's not necessarily quite as straightforward . still pondering as it's well over 100 miles to trailer the car
and likely to take more than a day to complete . I, like most, have a set idea about where I am aiming and would be there by now but for a momentary
lapse of sense and care .
We have had folks travel from Ireland, Scotland, London and Jersey to get there megasquirts mapped properly, so 100miles is just around the corner!!
;-)
Full mapping (and minor correction - such as wiring) take 10AM - 6PM and costs £250. cheap!!
www.baileyperformance.co.uk
Hell yes good deal . I'm not having a dig it just doesn't' look to me as if the repairs needed to my setup would be quite so quick
or straightforward as in your email
You thought it likely you would need to sell me another new ecu and the attendant rewire and re fit which is not going to happen for £350 . Will see
how my setup goes . Then I'll happily nip over if and when I reach the limits of my abilities and need more specialist help.thanks for all your
help so far
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
|
|
|
Valtra
|
| posted on 15/5/13 at 12:15 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by BaileyPerformance
quote:
Originally posted by Valtra
quote:
Originally posted by MarcV
Shouldn't be too hard to repair really. Not too sure about other damage though.
If you are really looking for a new one, you'd be better off getting it repaired and mapped imho. Offer sounds good.
Does sound good but I fear it's not necessarily quite as straightforward . still pondering as it's well over 100 miles to trailer the car
and likely to take more than a day to complete . I, like most, have a set idea about where I am aiming and would be there by now but for a momentary
lapse of sense and care .
We have had folks travel from Ireland, Scotland, London and Jersey to get there megasquirts mapped properly, so 100miles is just around the corner!!
;-)
Full mapping (and minor correction - such as wiring) take 10AM - 6PM and costs £250. cheap!!
www.baileyperformance.co.uk
Hell yes good deal . I'm not having a dig it just doesn't' look to me as if the repairs needed to my setup would be quite so quick
or straightforward as in your email
You thought it likely you would need to sell me another new ecu and the attendant rewire and re fit which is not going to happen for £350 . Will see
how my setup goes . Then I'll happily nip over if and when I reach the limits of my abilities and need more specialist help.thanks for all your
help so far
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
|
|
|
BaileyPerformance
|
| posted on 16/5/13 at 05:54 PM |
|
|
I think I have an early microsquirt board fully working just without a case. I'll have a look for it, if its suitable the deal still stands and
will only take a day to do.
I'm 90% sure your amp connector can be fitted to my board and your case used. I could sit you my board of you like so you can check?
|
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
|
Valtra
|
| posted on 16/5/13 at 08:01 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by BaileyPerformance
I think I have an early microsquirt board fully working just without a case. I'll have a look for it, if its suitable the deal still stands and
will only take a day to do.
I'm 90% sure your amp connector can be fitted to my board and your case used. I could sit you my board of you like so you can check?
Hi
Thanks very much for the offer , I thought the early Micro (V2) had the Ampaseal connector off the end of the board not the top , but in any case
I've invested in a new unit and will sell on the broken unit as well as the new cable to somebody I'm sure . Really good of you to try and
accommodate my "special needs"  I'll hopefully get the new unit hooked up this weekend and fingers crossed it will be ok .
I'll keep you posted .
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
|
|
|
Valtra
|
| posted on 19/5/13 at 04:28 PM |
|
|
update....
New ecu (ouwch) hooked up and thankfully engine strikes up  which is nice .
Unfortunately my faithful facet pump is only working when it want's to so this is hampering tune-up (still static in the shed ) as untill i can
be sure the swirl pot is fully charged fuel starvation will be an intermittent issue .
Like so many components on my car the feeder pump is very much "in built " but looks like I'll need to pull it out and probably best
to discard it I'm assuming the feeder pump does not need to be anything special to keep the swirl full but perhaps my barrel type would be
preferable if only to keep the pipework happy. but if the cube type has advantages please let me know as they are at least cheaper .
One thing I noticed today is the rev counter not working (fiat gauge pack) not sure if it was last week or not , but I thought it got it's feed
from the alternator .....perhaps the alternator is now sha&&ed as well .
On a positive note since the meltdown I now have a re-appearance of the previously absent oil pressure light 
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
|
|
|
Valtra
|
| posted on 19/5/13 at 05:21 PM |
|
|
ego settings ???
my default settings are saying active below map 90 but my map is constantly running 100-120 so does that mean it's not using the available data
to self tune from the wideband (lc1)?
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
|
|
|
Valtra
|
| posted on 19/5/13 at 05:48 PM |
|
|
raised the min to 120 now seems to be shifting the percentage ego correction in diagnostics
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
|
|
|
Valtra
|
| posted on 20/5/13 at 10:25 PM |
|
|
Why is this process shoving obstacles in my way . close inspection around the head shows coolant has been pi$$ing out in various places . so looks
like I'll have to add another head gasket, cam belt and "weekend" to the process. Bu££er.
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
|
|
|
Valtra
|
| posted on 20/5/13 at 10:50 PM |
|
|
or use some of this ?
Fiat KSEAL HEAD GASKET RADIATOR CORE PLUG HEATER MATRIX STOP LEAK REPAIR | eBay
any experience ?
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
|
|
|
scudderfish
|
| posted on 21/5/13 at 07:48 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Valtra
update....
New ecu (ouwch) hooked up and thankfully engine strikes up which is nice .
Unfortunately my faithful facet pump is only working when it want's to so this is hampering tune-up (still static in the shed ) as untill i can
be sure the swirl pot is fully charged fuel starvation will be an intermittent issue .
Like so many components on my car the feeder pump is very much "in built " but looks like I'll need to pull it out and probably best
to discard it I'm assuming the feeder pump does not need to be anything special to keep the swirl full but perhaps my barrel type would be
preferable if only to keep the pipework happy. but if the cube type has advantages please let me know as they are at least cheaper .
One thing I noticed today is the rev counter not working (fiat gauge pack) not sure if it was last week or not , but I thought it got it's feed
from the alternator .....perhaps the alternator is now sha&&ed as well .
On a positive note since the meltdown I now have a re-appearance of the previously absent oil pressure light
When I converted my car from carbs to EFI I left the old low pressure pump in place to feed the swirl pot. It's just a cubic pacet thing that
make enough noise to be comforting that it's working. I've been led to believe that pumps of that sort like to have something to work
against, so in the return pipe I placed a bit of copper pipe in which I crimped a wire feed nozzle from my welder to give it a restriction.
Rev counters can be a magic art with Megasquirt depending on how they are triggered. I'd be very surprised if yours was triggered by the
alternator, but it may have been driven from the coil. If it was, MS is not going to be putting out the >70v spikes that it's expecting to
see from a coil. You can bodge it with a relay, but I did that and it made a thoroughly irritating buzz. There is also a small circuit of diodes
that you can connect to your coil pack(s) to achieve the same effect. I ended up getting a new rev counter that expected a low voltage signal and
connected it to my EDIS module.
Regards.
Dave
|
|
|
Valtra
|
| posted on 21/5/13 at 08:09 AM |
|
|
Yes probably go some sort of pulse from the coil but there is definitely a wire from alternator to tacho somewhere . I have had a tractor rev counter
issue when the alternator is faulty in the past but of course there isn't a coil on a diesel
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
|
|
|
Valtra
|
| posted on 9/6/13 at 06:11 PM |
|
|
Had my first drive and couldn't get it running smoothly using speed density so tried Alpha N and instantly the car started running properly and
not chucking out black smoke. But this time squealing like a kettle from the header tank. Waited a few minutes until it had settled before removing
the pressure cap.....not long enough it seems as boiling water/antifreeze gushed out all over the engine and into my face.....now watching the Grand
Prix wearing a bit of sunburn sensation but at least I can see..
Now have to work out why I'm overheating any suggestions gratefully received. wondering if I either had some sort of airlock or the thermostat
has seized shut , but I only drove a very short distance on a cool day would that cause overheating?
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
|
|
|
dave_424
|
| posted on 9/6/13 at 06:18 PM |
|
|
Can you tell if you are lean? that would cause a hotter engine, but air in the system would cause it also, since the rad was getting hot, then the
thermostat should have been opening. You got a fan on the rad?
My thoughts would point to either your engine running lean or air in the cooling system.
|
|
|
Valtra
|
| posted on 9/6/13 at 09:19 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by dave_424
Can you tell if you are lean? that would cause a hotter engine, but air in the system would cause it also, since the rad was getting hot, then the
thermostat should have been opening. You got a fan on the rad?
My thoughts would point to either your engine running lean or air in the cooling system.
I'd probably driven less than 5 miles in total and certainly less than 2 miles on Alfa N (i.e not way too rich) Thinking about it now the
heater valve was stuck open when I drained the system prior to re-build but closed when I refilled the system so could have caused an air lock ?
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
|
|
|
