Matteoman
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| posted on 24/5/17 at 05:22 PM |
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Yeah I believe it was a UK car. In that case I imagine the guy who did my loom removed the pins by mistake. Im dead sure he had communication with the
ECU when we first test fired it.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 24/5/17 at 09:22 PM |
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More likley he used a base model obd2 plug.
You shouldn't need the Can bus to connect to the ecu via obd2. There is the other bus port.
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Matteoman
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| posted on 25/5/17 at 07:27 AM |
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Oh right. So them 2 pins may not be needed to connect and view live data and codes?
If you don't mind me asking what diagnostic software do you use? It'd be good to see all the sensor data on a PC
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big_wasa
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| posted on 25/5/17 at 11:28 AM |
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Yes I am sure it would use the scp bus.
Software, I usually use Torque on my android phone. I couldn't use my phone for obd2 and the video so I bought a cheap dongle from eBay and
used the software on the disc. I've since given it away. I've now bought Forscan but I haven't had time to play with it much yet.
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Matteoman
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| posted on 25/5/17 at 12:01 PM |
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Hmm I wonder why I can't connect then. Maybe the 3 readers i tried aren't compatible would of thought works snap on would do it though. I
need to find out what Bluetooth dongle st users use and can confirm work
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big_wasa
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| posted on 25/5/17 at 01:43 PM |
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Chinese nock off of an Elm427 from memory. Not all nock offs are equal.
If you have had three scanners on it with no luck then an Elm clone is not going to help.
Look at the wiring again. Double check wiring faults. Good power and earths.
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Matteoman
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| posted on 25/5/17 at 02:07 PM |
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I've checked all the wires from plug to ECU and they are all connected I just don't have pin 14 and 6.
Maybe I'll try an elm reader. As I don't see any other reason it won't connect. Power and earths are fine I checked them too. The
engines fully running and full Imrc control so I imagine it's probably happy but I want to see sensors
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filstu
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| posted on 6/6/17 at 11:22 AM |
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Hi Big_Wasa. Great work. i have been working through your guide and the ford wiring stuff, so far so good however my fuse box loom was cut when i
received it and i cannot find the IMRC control plug or wiring! whereabouts is it located on the loom do you recall?
A couple more questions, what did you do about the canister purge solenoid and associated parts to prevent throwing codes? you mention a load or mil
circuit? but i cant find any more info?
The engine is going in a Haynes roadster project
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big_wasa
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| posted on 6/6/17 at 03:51 PM |
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Hi, from memory there is two really big square plugs near the base of the fuse box, grey and the other brown. Joining into his is the imrc plug on its
own, fairly long lead from memory around 30cm.
The canister purge is just a solenoid, power and switched earh. I put a resistor in there so the ecu can see a load. I am working on one at the moment
so I may look into that further.
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filstu
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| posted on 7/6/17 at 10:49 AM |
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Awesome, looks like the loom I have was cut below that connection ☹️Managed to get a connector from eBay. So I just need to
solder a resistor between the purge solenoid pins? Do you remember the value?
Just one more question. The diagram I have seems to show eldis supply from ignition not k13. Is that as you recall or is it best to go to the 30a side
of K13?
Thanks for the invaluable help👏👍
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Davelarcs
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| posted on 23/6/17 at 06:52 AM |
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no signal to injectors
Hi all
I've got a problem with no signal to the injectors
I'm turning the engine over directly from the starter soleniod, got spark, fuel pump is running as it should, i.e. its runs briefly when
ignition turned on, then runs while engine cranking.
IMRC does'nt seem do do anything, but if I'm correct, it does'nt come in till after 5000 revs?
I've got a good 12v to the injectors, but the ecu is not grounding them, I've double checked all wires from injectors are back to ecu as
they should be.
I've checked the grounds from the ecu as per the pinout are sound.
I must be missing something simple here, I know the ecu was a runner, as I broke the st170 it came out of, and it ran.
Still unsure about a couple of wires: Start inhibit relay pin 27 & engine run relay 46 (I guessed that these are bypassed) thried earthing both
but no difference.
I've even hot wired injector 1 to spay some fuel in, and then the engine is trying to fire, so ignition side seems fine.
Can't get the obd reader to connect either, which would help a lot.
Any help will be much appreciated, ta.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 26/6/17 at 03:46 PM |
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I am told the ignition circuit is not immobilised, never tried it. Injectors are and your bypassing the starter. Sounds to me like its immobilised.
What's the pats indication light doing ?
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big_wasa
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| posted on 26/6/17 at 03:49 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by filstu
Awesome, looks like the loom I have was cut below that connection ☹️Managed to get a connector from eBay. So I just need to
solder a resistor between the purge solenoid pins? Do you remember the value?
Just one more question. The diagram I have seems to show eldis supply from ignition not k13. Is that as you recall or is it best to go to the 30a side
of K13?
Thanks for the invaluable help👏👍
Sorry I missed this. I don't use the donor fuse box.
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Davelarcs
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| posted on 26/6/17 at 04:04 PM |
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Hi Big Wassa, thanks for the reply, the imboliser light is flashing when ingition off, when flick switch for ignition, it goes solid for a few
seconds, then goes off.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 26/6/17 at 07:48 PM |
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Yep that's what it should do.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 27/6/17 at 09:27 AM |
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My next guess would be crank sensor. If the ecu doesn't see the engine turning over it won't put fuel in.
Check the wiring on this.
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Davelarcs
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| posted on 27/6/17 at 01:46 PM |
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I'll double check that later, but it I am getting a regular spark, so presumed crank sensor ok?
With the engine run relay & inhibit relay, I've presumed that I can bypass these, and have Ignition live going straight to the ecu, and
I'm hot wiring the starter for now just to see if it'll run, how do these normally link up? are they controlled by the ecu?
I've seen elsewhere that the start relay is spliced (ecu pin 32) to the knock sensor, I've not got anything other than the ecu from pin 32
connected to this? I can't immagine why this would be, but starting to grasp straws now.
[Edited on 27/6/17 by Davelarcs]
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Davelarcs
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| posted on 28/6/17 at 06:18 PM |
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SORTED!! WOO HOO!!
After a fair bit of checking wire for wire, I discovered that ford in their wisdom made the plug for the fuel pressure sensor the same as the one for
the T.P.S. mix them up and it wont work strangley enough  .
Starts and revs up ok, no cooling set up yet, so only a quick fire up. Much happiness.
Thanks again for your input.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 29/6/17 at 06:53 AM |
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Sorry I Have been a bit slow replying this week.
Yes if the tps was showing wot ( wide open throttle) then it cuts the fuel when cranking to clear flooding of the engine.
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allaboutfords2012
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| posted on 16/11/17 at 10:41 PM |
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Stripping ST170 loom
Hi there I am just starting to put an ST170 engine in a Westfield SE. I have a complete ST and was planning on stripping the loom back while it was in
the car so I could keep testing it as I removed stuff is this a good idea or not? I also wanted to run it on throttle bodies and junk the manifold I
will still have the airflow connected unless there is a way to convert it to map sensor?. If the manifold runner is unplugged does it go into limp or
just bring the light on? If its limp can I just leave that plugged in but not connected? Hopefully going to start pulling bits off it this weekend and
get started on it.
Thanks for any answers in advance
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big_wasa
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| posted on 17/11/17 at 07:48 AM |
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With out the inlet manifold runner controle modual plugged in and working it will peg the power back to around that of a standard Blacktop. It will
show errors in the ecu but not a full on limp home mode or engine managment light on the dash. If you plug it in with out it pulling the manifold
lever it will do the same. If you get the modual to just pull a spring then that should be better but you will get a flat spot.
The only real way you can get the Oem ecu to work is with the full count of sensors it’s mapped for.
Standard Zetec and Focus Rs Turbo are easier to package and you have more freedom to change inlets and exhausts and still keep the Oem sensors.
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allaboutfords2012
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| posted on 17/11/17 at 08:03 AM |
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Thanks for that did I read that you can turn the inlet manifold upside down for space reasons when fitting to a westi?
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big_wasa
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| posted on 17/11/17 at 11:05 AM |
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A few people have, even one in an mg. you may be able to move the engine over a touch. All depends on steering down lincs ect.
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Pigsy
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| posted on 19/6/18 at 10:29 PM |
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Hi Big Wasa. Are you still around and able to answer a few questions on this posting?
Im trying to do what you have done. I now have a complete loom, but not all the components they plug in to. I have a few to purchase in this case. I
have all the injectors, Crank sensor, coil, throttle position sensor, fuel rail pressure plug in (and sensor?), Inlet air temperature sensor, VVT
setup, cam position sensor, water temp sensor, fuel pressure driver module and the sensor with the red button (shut ff in an accident?)
Probably one or two others. Please, could I prevail on your patience and ask what else I need. Im learning as I go, but slowly. Give me anything
mechanical and it will be no problem, but wiring leaves me cold. I have allready wired up the lights, indicators, horn, brake lights, interior fan,
engine fan and one or two other things. I want to keep the engine management side with fuel pump setup seperate from the other loom if possible.
Any help would be much appreciated. Pigsy.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 20/6/18 at 07:07 AM |
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Yep still about.
I will see if I can fill in the blanks for you later.
Cheers
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