scottie
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| posted on 17/4/19 at 06:10 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
Yep I’ve fitted all sorts.
Current one is from a motorbike
its more the wiring side im worried about
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big_wasa
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| posted on 17/4/19 at 06:20 PM |
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What wiring ?
You just wire up your new alternator as it’s intended, it doesn’t connect to the ecu.
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scottie
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| posted on 17/4/19 at 06:23 PM |
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i thought the stock one did ?
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big_wasa
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| posted on 17/4/19 at 07:54 PM |
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It does
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scottie
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| posted on 17/4/19 at 08:27 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
It does
so if i replace it with one that doesnt go to the ecu it will be fine ? i thought using the stock injection meant having to use the stock alt
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big_wasa
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| posted on 17/4/19 at 08:50 PM |
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It will be fine.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 28/4/19 at 02:11 PM |
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Well having needed my own guide for my last Blacktop loom I can see my notes are a little lacking 
Thinking back, I did them for a mate who planed on just using the 42 pin plug in a mid engine car and that info just confuses things.
Sorry 
But there is still enough info to get the job done 
[Edited on 28/4/19 by big_wasa]
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huizer
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| posted on 19/6/19 at 09:06 PM |
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Hi, Could anyone recomed what year focus would be the easiest to use the loom and ecu from. Looking to put a 2l zetdc blacktop in a zero.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 20/6/19 at 06:55 AM |
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Any mk1 Focus 2.0. They have the 60 pin ecu, the info is in this thread.
A mk2 Mondeo 2.0 Blacktop is more or less the same and has the 104 pin ecu, again the info is in this thread and you can be doubly sure if you find an
ecu with the codes that are tried and tested.
The st170 is a little more complicated but the bits are cheap and readily available, again all the info is in another thread on here. Only pain in the
arse is if the st170 inlet manifold will fit or not.
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huizer
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| posted on 20/6/19 at 09:13 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
Any mk1 Focus 2.0. They have the 60 pin ecu, the info is in this thread.
A mk2 Mondeo 2.0 Blacktop is more or less the same and has the 104 pin ecu, again the info is in this thread and you can be doubly sure if you find an
ecu with the codes that are tried and tested.
The st170 is a little more complicated but the bits are cheap and readily available, again all the info is in another thread on here. Only pain in the
arse is if the st170 inlet manifold will fit or not.
Thanks for your help.
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jiippi
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| posted on 15/7/19 at 03:27 PM |
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I'm having some trouble with my Zetec blacktop conversion:
Donor car is 1999 Mondeo 2.0 manual. I should have all the essentials wired to the C2513 connector, but car won't start. When I turn the
igniton key to RUN position, PATS led stops flashing. So far so good? However fuel pump relay switched earth never gives the proper earth to fuel pump
relay. That wire has about 3V positive when ignition is off, and about 9V positive when ignition is on. So of course relay will not function with this
kind of voltage.
I tried bypassing the relay and running the pump continuously, but engine wouldn't start with this method either.
I have not yet checked do I have spark or no. Also OBD connector and instrument cluster wires are not yet connected, as I would like to get the engine
running first. Are these necessary in order to get the engine running?
PATS receiver and donor car key are kind of laying together, as I would like to use original keys for the car.
I have not used ECU starter or fan relays, I just wired them as they were on the original loom. Engine is going in mk3 Ford fiesta that had carburator
engine before. Fuel tank is replaced from EFI version, and I added two relays (ECU & FUEL) and some fuses for the conversion.
I found one hit on google that someone had this exact problem, but there was no answer what could cause it. Could the ECU be bad somehow? Donor car
was running and driving normally before disassembly. At first I suspected grounding issue but nothing changed when I double checked my earthing points
and added an additional ground for ECU.
Any ideas / suggestions?
Thanks!
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big_wasa
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| posted on 15/7/19 at 05:52 PM |
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The cars have an active anti theft system as well as the passive anti theft system.
Its Very unlikely you have a bad ecu. They are very hardy in the mondeo. I've seen them connected reverse polarity and popped various diodes but
it still started the engine.
I can't comment on how the ecu is talking to your bcm but for testing purposes I would wire it as a stand alone unit.
And then go about wiring it into your car when your confident the ecu and wiring is fine.
[Edited on 16/7/19 by big_wasa]
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huizer
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| posted on 21/4/20 at 09:09 PM |
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Thanks to the information on here i just got my zetec running on a mk1 focus ecu. I have the ecu controlling the the fuel pump relay and hp fuel pump
but don't t know how to wire the lp fuel pump? Would it be ok to run both pumps from the same relay?
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big_wasa
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| posted on 21/4/20 at 09:35 PM |
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Yes I’ve done them that way before.
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huizer
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| posted on 21/4/20 at 09:40 PM |
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Thanks
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Cobra289
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| posted on 8/5/20 at 10:32 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by snowy2
My working diagrams for the Focus 60 pin ECU......I used the pin out list earlier in this post.
I want to thanks to "Big_Wasa"and you (Snowy2) for sharing so much information.
I hope that I can rebuild my wiring harness so that I can use the MAF sensor with the ITB's (see pictures of my setup)
My question is:
Is this picture with the relay setup your latest version?
Was so installed at your car?
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big_wasa
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| posted on 8/5/20 at 12:18 PM |
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Looks like some nice engineering there 
As long as the maf sees all the air entering the engine including the idle valve it should run fine.
A guy called Will ran a similar set up and it was dyno’d at around 150 on the standard map.
Relays. I have just finished up a fresh install this week on my latest project.
Mine differ slightly to above.
For the engine....
Starter inhibitor relay. Cuts the the starter motor as part of the Immobilizer.
Fuel pump, this is the important one.
Fan relay.
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Cobra289
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| posted on 8/5/20 at 12:35 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
Looks like some nice engineering there
As long as the maf sees all the air entering the engine including the idle valve it should run fine.
A guy called Will ran a similar set up and it was dyno’d at around 150 on the standard map.
Relays. I have just finished up a fresh install this week on my latest project.
Mine differ slightly to above.
For the engine....
Starter inhibitor relay. Cuts the the starter motor as part of the Immobilizer.
Fuel pump, this is the important one.
Fan relay.
Yes de MAF is just after de filter and sens all the income air.
I hope that I can get 170 hp. with de standard engine and the 98AB-12A650-CGL (CERT) ECU.
Do you know if it is possible to change de maps?
Like other injectors (black ones from ST170)
Any experience with the ITB's TPS sensor? will de ECU accept this sensor signal?
Lots os questions!
My project is 100% 3D design via SolidWorks
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big_wasa
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| posted on 8/5/20 at 12:47 PM |
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There is a couple of firms that can map the ecu in the uk. But it is popular in America inc diy options if you are very technically minded.
I am just slapping a turbo on instead. 
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Cobra289
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| posted on 8/5/20 at 02:24 PM |
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Turbo will be something for my son.
I am happy if we get it on the road, this would be a challenge.
Just curious, you put a turbo on a 2,0L Zetec without any change to the engine? (pistons, rods, compression etc)
There will be some problems with space for a turbo in our LHD car, we got there the the steering shaft.
I use the Ford Focus Steering column and want to use all the switches to.
I get mad with the wiring, my living room is full with wiring.
Regarding the relays, you say that have changes to the "Snowy2" drawing, is that because something was wrong or just because you needed or
wanted to do in a different way?
Regards,
Carlos
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big_wasa
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| posted on 8/5/20 at 03:45 PM |
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I am not saying Snowey is wrong I’ve just done mine a little different. Instead of a relay to carry the current of the engine. I have a 70a relay that
carries the load for the entire car instead of my 30 year old Sierra ignition switch.
Engines, I have a few
The one in it is know as a hybrid.
St170 bottom end with 9mm Arp’s
2.0 Blacktop top end with the st170 valve springs.
1.8mm FRs Hg
This gives you a Cr of 9:1 and is reportedly good for over 300bhp
I’ve got a tiny Td04L turbo for quick spool and low boost and an expected output of 220~270 bhp
Second engine is just parts but is basically a FRs engine with forged rods and as many Arp’s I can through at it.
There is plenty of room for a turbo if you top mount it. It’s the cooling that takes up the space.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 8/5/20 at 03:52 PM |
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Cobra289
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| posted on 8/5/20 at 04:05 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
I am not saying Snowey is wrong I’ve just done mine a little different. Instead of a relay to carry the current of the engine. I have a 70a relay that
carries the load for the entire car instead of my 30 year old Sierra ignition switch.
Engines, I have a few
The one in it is know as a hybrid.
St170 bottom end with 9mm Arp’s
2.0 Blacktop top end with the st170 valve springs.
1.8mm FRs Hg
This gives you a Cr of 9:1 and is reportedly good for over 300bhp
I’ve got a tiny Td04L turbo for quick spool and low boost and an expected output of 220~270 bhp
Second engine is just parts but is basically a FRs engine with forged rods and as many Arp’s I can through at it.
There is plenty of room for a turbo if you top mount it. It’s the cooling that takes up the space.
OK I understand a 70A relay for the full car.
I di at my DAX Cobra something equivalent, I did use a box from BMW.
Wow all the abbreviations is difficult to read the first time.
What means 9mm Arp's, do you means the ARP bolts?
1.8 mm head gasket that is OK for the 9:1 CR
250 bhp would be a huge amount of power. Wow!
[Edited on 8/5/20 by Cobra289]
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Cobra289
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| posted on 8/5/20 at 04:08 PM |
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I got a brand new Zetec blacktop from 2004.
Looks nice your car.
The catalysator need some protection!!!!!
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big_wasa
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| posted on 8/5/20 at 07:29 PM |
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With the cat, time will tell.
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