mad4x4
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| posted on 1/1/10 at 07:07 PM |
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Converting to Megasquirt
OK been running bike carbs on a Zetec engine with Mega jolts.
Trying to put together a list of "bit" I need to build Fuel injection using megajolt.
1) Injector Plate for Engine
2) Injectors & Fuel Rail
3) "Inlet manifold" (which vehicle?)
4) MAF
5) Lambda Sensor
6) TPS
7) Megasquirt
8) EDIS spark box for coil pack
9) Zetec Wasted Spark Pack
10 ) High Pressure Pump
11) Return Line to Fuel Tank
12) Swirl Pot ?? DO I NEED ON and is it in the tank or external?
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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gregs
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| posted on 1/1/10 at 07:15 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mad4x4
OK been running bike carbs on a Zetec engine with Mega jolts.
Trying to put together a list of "bit" I need to build Fuel injection using megajolt.
1) Injector Plate for Engine
2) Injectors & Fuel Rail
3) "Inlet manifold" (which vehicle?)
4) MAF
5) Lambda Sensor
6) TPS
7) Megasquirt
8) EDIS spark box for coil pack
9) Zetec Wasted Spark Pack
10 ) High Pressure Pump
11) Return Line to Fuel Tank
12) Swirl Pot ?? DO I NEED ON and is it in the tank or external?
The above list looks ok, but I just wondered why? - benefits will be pretty slim, slightly better economy being the main - most certainly not worth
the hassle imho...
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irvined
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| posted on 1/1/10 at 07:19 PM |
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Currently doing a similar conversion, i was running megajolt with twin webers.
I used an inlet manifold for twin webers, the throttle bodies will be made to fit this. Zetecs came with FI so probably best to look for a suitable
manifold from an original car.
I didn't bother with MAF, just TPS and MAP sensor.
I used EDIS to control spark with megasquirt, basically connected the pip/saw form the edis to the megasquirt instead of the megajolt.
You will need a high pressure pump with a filter somewhere before it, and a return into the tank , and a fuel pressure regulator somewhere to regulate
the pressure. I have a swirl pot in the tank, but you can have one up front if you dont already have one in the tank.
In addition You will also need a sensor for coolant temperature, megasquirt is preconfigured to run on GM sensors which are 1/2"BSP, or you can
recalibrate them to run on your ford ones. Remember that the sensor voltage is +5V on megasquirt, do not connect this to anything with a +12v feed.
http://irvined.blogspot.com
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whitestu
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| posted on 1/1/10 at 09:41 PM |
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quote:
The above list looks ok, but I just wondered why? - benefits will be pretty slim, slightly better economy being the main - most certainly not worth
the hassle imho...
I agree it probably isn't worthwhile, and would question whether ecomony would be improved. The most likely benefit would be a bit more power at
certain points in the rev range, but you may not gain much.
Having said that I've been tempted to go down this route myself!
Stu
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coozer
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| posted on 1/1/10 at 10:40 PM |
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Yep, I'm doing it atm, well when it warms up a bit...
New inlet using the original Ford injectors mounted on the inlet. Then Honda CBR1000 TB's that have the TPs and MAf , but if using bike
TB's the MAF is useless.
Megasquirt has a MAF sensor inside so just running a tube from the inlet to the ecu. However intend to run with just the TPS as the ramp up on the
TB's butterfly's is too intense.
New injection pump and filter down next to the tank, and a new return into the tank.
Got the MS off Phil at extraefi that is built to use the edis that was controlled by the MJ before.
Already have the exhaust sensor installed from trying to home tune the carbs Its an LC1 that will work with the MS for closed loop tuning.
As far as the swirl pot goes my tank had one from MNR so no extra install for me there.
Good luck with your conversion, I'm looking for about another 5~8 brake but really more economy and more torque.
Steve
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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fatbaldbloke
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| posted on 2/1/10 at 09:24 AM |
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Loads of stuff about fitting throttle bodies and megasquirt on a Zetec on my website. Follow the link below, go to the motoring pages and follow the
link to Westfield throttle bodies and megasquirt.
Hope it helps.
[Edited on 2/1/10 by fatbaldbloke]
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mad4x4
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| posted on 2/1/10 at 10:50 AM |
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Main reason for the change is that I had a OLD T Reg focus 1.8 for about 6 months and it would pull and drive far better than INDY on carbs.
Other thing is I have ad emmission problems a lot with the carbs and I have an MOT due this year....
So off to the scrapy for the inlet manifold and fuel rails etc.
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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scutter
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| posted on 2/1/10 at 01:23 PM |
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I'd have to agree with Whitestu on this one, my blacktop zetec on megasquirt is no faster than his blacktop on carbs.
The added simplicty of the carb'd set up would hold it's favour as well.
ATB Dan.
The less I worked, the more i liked it.
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twinturbo
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| posted on 2/1/10 at 02:01 PM |
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With EFI you can optimise the FUEL ignition map throught the rev range.
You should be able to get a more economic, torquier, more powerful set up.
Easier starting, better warmup, less bore wash during warmup, better tractability, better drivability.
Further tuning potential without having to go back to the rolling road for the carb to be rejeted.
I don't like carbs... But I am not afraid of EFI.
TT
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irvined
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| posted on 3/1/10 at 12:08 AM |
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Primary reason for converting to EFI for me was tunability, rolling road time in NL is expensive, the price of weber parts is astronomical.
With EFI i can make small changes quickly and easily and should be able to get closer to the 'perfect' AFR at any given point in the
rev/load range than I would with adjusting carbs/jets for less money.
Even better i can switch maps between different engine setups as/when required for example when in a country with crap fuel <85octane for example.
http://irvined.blogspot.com
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 3/1/10 at 01:41 AM |
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Mines ( XE 2ltr 16v) is running on MS1 V2.2 and wasted spark ( not edis) and to be fair was a right royal pain in the arse to get going) I had a dry
solder joint in my vr conditioner board that took forever to find. So now it's running and on the road and I have began to tune it. In fact when
warm it's not too bad at all. You'll need to read read and read again OH and then you'll need to read some more. It'll come to
you sooner or later on what's happening and how to go about solving any issues.
If you want a look at mine running on the laptop and tuner studio etc you can come up and have a look anytime. just U2U me before hand. It'll
only be in the garage ( up on stands at the minute for winter) so perhaps not too much to see really but nevertheless you are welcome to look.
If you need any advice ( not that I'm an expert by any means) feel free to ask. Wallace has done some tuning before for big daz and scoobylav (
gone from this forum now I believe ) I don't know of anyone else locaish who has the system fitted.
If it looks wrong it probably is wrong.
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