serieslandy
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posted on 18/6/11 at 12:49 PM |
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Engine first start help
I rebuilt my engine after it was sitting for 2 years, with no sump or rocker cover (silly I know)
I set up tdc and have wired it all up. Its also had some new oil change and new gaskets.
Its currently on a stand with all the electrics wired up and turns over well.
There was a big spark from the top of the coil when I didn't have the king lead on.
I can't get the engine to run, it will turn over and I can get flames to lick out of the exhaust ports (is this right?) when I put petrol down
the carb.
I'm running the car on a boat fuel tank that is gravity fed and the standard pierberg carb, also tried using the pump on the side of the pinto
to the carbs (that didnt work either)
Has anyone got any ideas or what I'm doing wrong?
Thank you guys.
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corrado vr6
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posted on 18/6/11 at 02:49 PM |
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Have you double checked the HT leads are on in the right firing order only suggest this as I was baffled the other day as to why my mini
wouldn't start are you sure your not 180 degrees out?
http://r1indy7.wordpress.com/
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serieslandy
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posted on 18/6/11 at 04:14 PM |
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I was thinking that the bottom end might be 180 out compared to the top.
Is there a way to check now the rocker and sump are on?
I'm pretty sure the leads are correct as I wrote the order onto the dizzy cap when I took them off.
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mark chandler
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posted on 18/6/11 at 06:07 PM |
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Just swap them around, no need to check as its binary, either correct or not
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serieslandy
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posted on 18/6/11 at 07:00 PM |
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Guys I'm really confused now, I managed to get the engine to fire but really roughly and it threw petrol out of the carb when it cut out.
so was going to swap the tdc over to see if that was the problem. I started to turn the crankshaft by hand and the belt just started jumping. The cam
shaft moves freely and so does the crank but the auxiliary shaft will not move more than about 5º.
It did this before but I don't know what fixed it.
Felt like weighing it in so decided to tidy the garage instead (very rare for me)
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Lightybob
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posted on 18/6/11 at 08:17 PM |
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Have you checked the distributor, it sounds like it's in the wrong position
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serieslandy
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posted on 18/6/11 at 09:30 PM |
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The dizzy hasn't been moved since it came out the sierra, the rotor arm was set to no1.
Next time I get a chance I'm going to pull the dizzy out and see what the problem is. I think that the crank and cam are out 180deg, so that
needs finding out then setting the dizzy.
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keithometune
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posted on 18/6/11 at 11:41 PM |
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are you turning the engine in the correct direction (clockwise) if so there must be something up with the aux shaft as that normally turns very
easily, i would take belt of and check aux shaft, if ok reset cam timing and tension, if its a bosc dizzy there is usually a little notch cut on the
top of the dizzy to indicate where no one lead should go. with no. 1 lead at the notch the firing order is 1342 in the direction of rotation. if it
does not fire at all then move the leads 180 degrees if it pops and bangs try moving the dizzy around as you crank it
keith
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rusty nuts
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posted on 19/6/11 at 03:41 PM |
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There were loads of engine types used in the Sierra, It might help if we knew which engine you have ?? If it is a Pinto lump the rotate the crank
until the TDC mark on the pulley is lined up and check that the cam timing mark is aligned then check that the auxiliary shaft marks are aligned. ,
correct if wrong. Finally check that the rotor arm is pointing to no1 plug lead,( there should be a small mark on the outer rim of the distributor for
no1). That at least should get you in the ball park
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serieslandy
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posted on 19/6/11 at 07:12 PM |
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Its a 1.8 pinto with a bosch non vac dizzy and standard pierberg carb.
Had a look before going out this eve and I pull the dizzy out, that is moving freely and so was the auxiliary pulley so guess there is something up
with the oil pump.
I got as far as taking the all the bolts out the sump and draining the oil. I won't get a chance to fiddle until Thursday now.
I couldn't see any marks on the distributed housing. Where the rotor arm pointed to no1 there is a recess in the body where a 3 pin plug sits.
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keithometune
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posted on 19/6/11 at 09:24 PM |
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it is a small cut in the side of the housing, the bit on which the cap fits
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