tony-devon
|
| posted on 26/7/11 at 06:15 PM |
|
|
brakes just wont bleed
ok so I have 2 sierra rear calipers, I had to wind the pistons back in to get the new pads in etc, I didnt even know about this until I read it on
here 
I have also read not to mess with the handbrake until the brakes are bled, so I have purposely left that disconnected
new braided lines, no leaks anywhere, but I just cant get the flipping system to bleed
have now pumped close on 1.5l of fluid through.
have I missed something silly?
getting close to just pulling ti all apart and starting again, but Im sick of brake fluid, its a setup I have used many times, 5/8th inch master
cylinder, always worked in the past.
heavy is good, heavy is reliable, and if it breaks, hit them with it
|
|
|
|
|
contaminated
|
| posted on 26/7/11 at 06:22 PM |
|
|
Do a search mate - lots of info. Top of the list is to spin the calipers round the disk until the bleed nipples are at the top.
Tiger Super Six Independent
www.southernkitcars.com
|
|
|
INDY BIRD
|
| posted on 26/7/11 at 06:25 PM |
|
|
hi is thblled nipple at the top??
if at the bottom you need to take caliper off to beed placing the disc inbetween, as you will gewt trapped air if at the bottom,
also are you using a easy bleed etc,
failing that i have pressed the peddle down and left over night with something holding the peddle down, this the pushes all the air to the caliper etc
and it worked for me,
also check the brake light switch for trapped air, just loosen a bit to bleed it,
failing that get the big tools out on it
good luck
|
|
|
tony-devon
|
| posted on 26/7/11 at 06:37 PM |
|
|
ok thanks, I have the nipples at the top
have wedged it down will see what happens
is it possible that I have wound the piston back too far?
was wondering about maybe removing them, wedging them open so the pads get to grip on something, then seeing if pressure builds up
heavy is good, heavy is reliable, and if it breaks, hit them with it
|
|
|
austin man
|
| posted on 26/7/11 at 09:23 PM |
|
|
I think you still have air in them this is a common problem the only get around is rotating the caliper and bleeding again as you are doing
Life is like a bowl of fruit, funny how all the weird looking ones are left alone
|
|
|
flibble
|
| posted on 26/7/11 at 09:25 PM |
|
|
Buy an eazibleed, best thing ever
|
|
|
tomgregory2000
|
| posted on 26/7/11 at 09:52 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by flibble
Buy an eazibleed, best thing ever
I wouldnt say they are the best thing ever, they are handy but the best ones are the vacuum brake bleeder that hook up to a compressor, as the
eazibleed can squirt some air into the system if your not carefull
|
|
|
40inches
|
| posted on 27/7/11 at 07:31 AM |
|
|
I use a manual vac pump, the type used for oil changes. Best to remove the bleed nipples and wrap with ptfe tape to seal the threads (Not the taper
seat). Never failed.
|
|
|
simonwinn
|
| posted on 27/7/11 at 07:49 AM |
|
|
If this is the first time you have had fluid in the system it might be worth cracking the joints off on the master cylinder to bleed out any air
trapped in there. Its messy but worth a go.
The Westfield I built bled with no problems but the Mojo I had all sorts of problems with, the wilwood calipers for a start. But the main thing was a
small air lock in the master cylinder, it was allowing fluid through to the calipers but we couldnt get a firm pedal.
|
|
|
.jpg)
