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Author: Subject: Double Glazing advice
StevenB

posted on 11/6/12 at 10:17 PM Reply With Quote
Double Glazing advice

Hi
Just need some advice on the specs.

Are 28mm thick glazing units really any better than 24mm ?

Is it better to go for argon filled units?

Should I go for the door locks with the big hooks
that flip out when handle is turned up?

Anything else I should look for?

Cheers

s





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ragindave

posted on 11/6/12 at 10:40 PM Reply With Quote
A good site!

http://www.double-glazing-info.com/

28mm are better 30mm plus would be even better.

Shoot bolt locking is better than Espag.

You will need a certificate from the installer /manufacturer stating the windows meet the current building regs.

The certificate is important when you eventually to sell the property.

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mark chandler

posted on 11/6/12 at 10:47 PM Reply With Quote
We have ones with a double hinge arrangement, means you can wash the outside from the inside so no faffing with ladders, a big plus
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snapper

posted on 12/6/12 at 04:48 AM Reply With Quote
1 upstairs and 1 downstairs unit will need to open extra wide as a possible fire excape





I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)

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Stott

posted on 12/6/12 at 06:13 AM Reply With Quote
IIRC current regs are every habitable room (so not kitchen, bathroom or hall) needs to have a window that has a 600mm sash so when open it satisfies the fire escape dimensions of 400-odd mm.

My advice is shop around a lot. There are only so many profiles so you will most likely find the one you like at wildly varying prices.

Also, if your replacing like for like you don't need trickle vents if they aren't already fitted so if you don't want them make sure you specify this or some companies will cut them in automatically, and despite your best efforts at buying thick glass, your window will be draughty and will let a lot of noise through the vent- it has to be heard to be believed!

Atb
Stott

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cliftyhanger

posted on 12/6/12 at 06:50 AM Reply With Quote
Or do what I did. Take youself to the nearest "window store", give them the dimensions of the window and layout, and they will supply. http://www.windowstoreplastics.co.uk/information-centre.aspx
The extra insulation from extra thickness etc will make a teeeeny amount of difference, save you literally pennies a year.
I then fitted the windows, not bothered with any certificates etc at all. The regs are pretty easy to follow if you self-fit. (make sure even packers frame to glass, frame packed tight before screwed to walls, sill evenly supported. Think that is about it)

And most of the professional installations I have seen involve fitting using foam and little else. They issue the certificate/receipt whatever as the fitters sub-contract to the installer (vast majority) and are paid per job. Faster fitting=more pay. They are not interested in the regs any more than I am, and IF there is a problem (very very doubtful) it will be the company who are responsible, not the fitter.

Oh, the windows I bought? 1600x1000, split halfway, top opener, £160 all in. 1200x800, all one opener, £110. To give you an idea. Takes me a couple of hours to take a box sash out and fit the plastic, about an hour to faff with trims. I am no expert, but can handle a saw and drill.

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Peteff

posted on 12/6/12 at 08:05 AM Reply With Quote
I just fitted two at the back of the house yesterday, don't bother with the regs if you are not flitting in the near future. Mine were 920x930 single top opener and a 1230x1220 with a top opening top light about 1/3 of the frame and the two cost me £260 with screw fixings, packers and mastic thrown in. Our front windows were fitted by a local firm and are argon filled all singing and with trickle vents upstairs, we need in our bedroom as it gets very steamy The K glass makes a lot of difference and is standard nowadays but I'm not sure if the argon makes any difference but it is supposed to.

[Edited on 12/6/12 by Peteff]





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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dhutch

posted on 12/6/12 at 08:07 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by cliftyhanger
Oh, the windows I bought? 1600x1000, split halfway, top opener, £160 all in. 1200x800, all one opener, £110. To give you an idea.

Sounds very reasonable.

After a cold caller I ended up having a salesman round who priced me £1125 fitted for three windows, 2020*940 1540*940 and 940 square all with one opening light for about 1/3, latter one frosted. That was down from £3k odd with a dozen 'once in a lifetime offers' etc etc.

Two of the windows are fine bar one of the panes having failed, the whole house is the same age, and im not planning to be there more than 5years or so, so another option is just to change out the glass? Or i have heard you can even have it resealed (would then need to board the window for a day ro so i guess).


Daniel

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Not Anumber

posted on 12/6/12 at 01:05 PM Reply With Quote
ignore the glazing firms and the cold calling jokers, go for supply only and fit them yoursef with a couple of mates. I did all my own including bay windows with no experience at all and saved a fortune.
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cliftyhanger

posted on 12/6/12 at 01:54 PM Reply With Quote
Saying that, measuring bay windows is a bit of an art form, I would be tempted to get somebody out to do that bit. But otherwise, yep, fit and be happy.

And I really can't imagine a house sale being an issue if you cannot produce the paperwork for the windows. I don't have any at all even for the ones in my house that were done years ago.

Back to steamed up units, probably not much more to buy new rather than re-seal, and much more convenient. Getting the beads out is a faff, I use a wallpaper scraper very carefully. And a bit of wood plus hammer to refit. Scary at first, and easy to get a bit gung-ho I reckon.

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Not Anumber

posted on 12/6/12 at 02:09 PM Reply With Quote
There are two work arounds for the paperwork:

1. The fitting of second hand units dispenses with the need for paperwork. Useful perhaps to have a receipt on file but of couse this could originate from any householder or builder who may have sold their old windows.

1. Though modern sealed glazing units are dated it is quite permissable for a householder to have legitimately replaced original glazing units with newer ones due to misting and retained existing frames.

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JoelP

posted on 12/6/12 at 07:32 PM Reply With Quote
Its only £50 for a cert anyway if you cant produce one when you sell the house.

Re taking out the beads, if you do bend them then heating them removes even big marks - either hot air gun or carefully with a blow torch!

I got 5 replacement panes for about £140, so its a nice cheap solution if you already have appropriate frames in and they arent too knackered.






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StevenB

posted on 13/6/12 at 12:12 AM Reply With Quote
Guys

Thanks a million for all the replies.
Some good tips there.

We have timber frames, some of the units
have blown and the middle has clouded up,
they are drafty, dont really cut out road noise,
when you open the curtains on a winters night
its baltic in the space behind.

Been quoted £1300 for
3 large windows , 1 small window and a door.
Argon filled K glass 28mm units.
New sill boards.

S





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