bobinspain
|
| posted on 6/12/12 at 04:30 PM |
|
|
Hayabusa power loss.
Usual numpty-level question:
On the way back from a 30 mile run out, I went to overtake and pressed the accelerator and the normally smooth power delivery was staccato and lumpy.
(6,500rpm). Got to 7,000 rpm and the rough running continued, so eased off. All fine at 6k rpm, but when I tried dropping a gear and gunning it, I got
the same problem.
Engine has done 780 miles from new. Gen2 1340cc.
Where do I start looking please?
Oil pressure and temperature are normal and engine appears to idle smoothly.
|
|
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 6/12/12 at 04:56 PM |
|
|
fuel starvation at higher revs?
Check lines and filters perhaps.
|
|
|
sdh2903
|
| posted on 6/12/12 at 05:02 PM |
|
|
Coil and plug leads?
Had this on my R1 engine just before winter hibernation, was fine at low revs but the extra vibrations at high revs was slightly dislodging a plug
lead causing it to run rough. Quick nip with the pliers sorted it.
Not sure if the busa is similar or if its coil on plug?
|
|
|
rodgling
|
| posted on 6/12/12 at 05:02 PM |
|
|
I had similar problems at 2-3k rpm at WOT with my M3 engine - turned out to be VANOS (variable valve timing) failure, easily fixed in my case with a
couple of new O-rings. No idea if your engine has variable valve timing though? Probably not common on bike engines?
|
|
|
Nickp
|
| posted on 6/12/12 at 05:37 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
fuel starvation at higher revs?
Check lines and filters perhaps.
+1 first place to look for me too including pump.
|
|
|
richard thomas
|
| posted on 6/12/12 at 05:45 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Nickp
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
fuel starvation at higher revs?
Check lines and filters perhaps.
+1 first place to look for me too including pump.
+2....airlock in the fuel rail?
|
|
|
franky
|
| posted on 6/12/12 at 05:53 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by bobinspain
Usual numpty-level question:
On the way back from a 30 mile run out, I went to overtake and pressed the accelerator and the normally smooth power delivery was staccato and lumpy.
(6,500rpm). Got to 7,000 rpm and the rough running continued, so eased off. All fine at 6k rpm, but when I tried dropping a gear and gunning it, I got
the same problem.
Engine has done 780 miles from new. Gen2 1340cc.
Where do I start looking please?
Oil pressure and temperature are normal and engine appears to idle smoothly.
Are you sure the engines done 780miles from new? was it in a damaged bike that ran when on its side?
Ignoring the doom questions above I'd guess at a fuel issue
|
|
|
bobinspain
|
| posted on 6/12/12 at 07:27 PM |
|
|
Are you sure the engines done 780miles from new? was it in a damaged bike that ran when on its side?
Ignoring the doom questions above I'd guess at a fuel issue
Franky. Answer to question 1. I have mileage confirmed by Mal Curnin. Second query------don't know.
The car is an MK factory build.
I'll check out the fuel issue.
|
|
|
matt_gsxr
|
| posted on 6/12/12 at 07:31 PM |
|
|
Any warning codes? Crank sensor problems can cause your symptoms, but would normally throw a warning code.
|
|
|
bobinspain
|
| posted on 6/12/12 at 07:47 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by matt_gsxr
Any warning codes? Crank sensor problems can cause your symptoms, but would normally throw a warning code.
No Matt. No codes.
|
|
|
feckn7
|
| posted on 6/12/12 at 08:04 PM |
|
|
I had similar issues in my daughters car (not bike engined) where motor would start run drive ok but hesitate etc under load.
Checked fuel pressure, replaced injectors, distributor cap, plug leads (as all were looking fairly tired) no luck.
Turned out spark plugs were breaking down under load - new set of plugs - all fixed.
David
[Edited on 6/12/12 by feckn7]
|
|
|
bobinspain
|
| posted on 6/12/12 at 08:20 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by feckn7
I had similar issues in my daughters car (not bike engined) where motor would start run drive ok but hesitate etc under load.
Checked fuel pressure, replaced injectors, distributor cap, plug leads (as all were looking fairly tired) no luck.
Turned out spark plugs were breaking down under load - new set of plugs - all fixed.
David
[Edited on 6/12/12 by feckn7]
Thanks for the input David.
I should have made it clear to avoid wasting everyones' time:
Car is a year old, and factory built to a very high spec'.
Cost £15,000.(plus £800 shipping, plus £1,200 matriculation for road use in Spain). No guarantee, because shipping the car back to UK for remedial
work would cost £800 each way. (beginning to think that might've been a good idea).
Engine supplied for build was confirmed as a 68 miler. (Now done 780 miles).
Regards, Bob.
|
|
|
Andy B
|
| posted on 6/12/12 at 09:27 PM |
|
|
Hi Bob
the bike running on its side after accident shouldnt figure as the bank angle sensor will cut them dead when leant at an angle with no cornering force
to centralise the pedulum, so I dont think thats it. As others have said I would check fuel pressure first - does it employ an external fuel pressure
regulator if so can you plumb in a pressure guage to check the line pressure. Also when ignition is on are you getting any unusual noises from the
pump.
Most faults with the ignition/fuel system will manifest themselves with a fault code so I would definately check the fuelling first - oh and check the
main engine earth hasnt come loose.
Feel frre to call me if the problem persists
Best regards
Andy
|
|
|
lucy
|
| posted on 6/12/12 at 11:05 PM |
|
|
Had a similar problem on my hayabusa engine and changed the fuel pump and that solved it. Good luck.
|
|
|
bobinspain
|
| posted on 7/12/12 at 09:00 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Andy B
Hi Bob
the bike running on its side after accident shouldnt figure as the bank angle sensor will cut them dead when leant at an angle with no cornering force
to centralise the pedulum, so I dont think thats it. As others have said I would check fuel pressure first - does it employ an external fuel pressure
regulator if so can you plumb in a pressure guage to check the line pressure. Also when ignition is on are you getting any unusual noises from the
pump.
Most faults with the ignition/fuel system will manifest themselves with a fault code so I would definately check the fuelling first - oh and check the
main engine earth hasnt come loose.
Feel frre to call me if the problem persists
Best regards
Andy
u2u (of Gettysburg Address proportions) sent Andy.
|
|
|
Andy B
|
| posted on 7/12/12 at 09:41 AM |
|
|
Bob
u2u replied to
give me a bell on 01449 736633 if you want to discuss - I might be able to work through a few things remotely with you
regards
Andy
|
|
|
ptrxly
|
| posted on 7/12/12 at 12:03 PM |
|
|
I had a similar issue with my Busa powered Seven a couple of years ago. The high ethanol content in the Sunoco gas that I started to use had dissolved
the anti-slosh foam baffles in the fuel tank and it had plugged up the injectors. A cleaning of the injectors and flushing the tank after removing the
foam cured the problem and no issues since.
|
|
|
bobinspain
|
| posted on 7/12/12 at 12:04 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Andy B
Bob
u2u replied to
give me a bell on 01449 736633 if you want to discuss - I might be able to work through a few things remotely with you
regards
Andy
Andy,
You really aren't aware of my degree of ineptitude. I have the same amount of faith in my ability, as I have ability. Both have yet to register
on any scale known to man.
I replied via u2u before reading your latest here.
Will emailed me today, he's up to his eyeballs in work, prepping his own machinery for shipping out to Africa.
I'm snookered!
"Cri de coeur" wasn't short of the mark !
Regards, Bob.
|
|
|
bobinspain
|
| posted on 8/12/12 at 02:04 PM |
|
|
For those who are interested and particularly for those who kindly offered advice:-
Car battery showed 12.84v at 'rest.'
Momentary drop to 12v on start-up.
Idling, 13.8v
At a steady 4,500 rpm, 14.9v.
When removing the battery cover/holder, it was apparent on the tubular piece with 2 securing-screws that nip the HT lead, the screws were
'hand-tight' only. Additionally, the collar which attaches to one of the battery terminals was far from tight.
All secured, I went out for a quick run. (In the car !!!!)
In 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears, I took it as far as 8k rpm, smooth as you like.
I'll give the car a more thorough shakedown in 5th and 6th manana. (It's 17c here right now, but blowing a hooley).
Thanks troops.
|
|
|
richard thomas
|
| posted on 9/12/12 at 10:59 AM |
|
|
Well done Bob, glad it was a simple fix for you....but a bit worrying I know at the time?
|
|
|
bobinspain
|
| posted on 16/12/12 at 01:27 PM |
|
|
Gout-induced delay (not recommended!) in road testing.
Just been out (19c and sunny).
Smooth as you like in all gears (up to 8k rpm anyway).
Iffy HT connection.
|
|
|
bobinspain
|
| posted on 6/1/13 at 01:50 PM |
|
|
My last posting was somewhat optimistic.
There's good news and bad news. First the bad: Just done a 30-miler and was able to give it a good thrash through all gears on a near empty
autopista. 1st to 4th, wound it up to 9k rpm and all normal. In fifth and 6th, above 7.5/8k rpm it stutters and and loses power, like it's hit a
wall. I progressively floor the throttle in 5th and 6th and it pulls like a train until 'the wall.' If you put your tongue in the roof of
your mouth and make the rrrrrrrrrr sound, that's what the engine feels/sounds like and no increase in power delivery. I naturally lifted off at
that and re-tried------same result.
Any ideas based on the above?
The good news is that it was 'shirt-sleeves' weather at 20c and sunny. As they say, "you can't have everything."
(where would you put it?)
Regards, Bob.
|
|
|
chicade
|
| posted on 6/1/13 at 02:47 PM |
|
|
Sounds like miss fire bob I would try taking the plugs out and looking for any difference in colour ect may possibly be a coil pack or a plug breaking
down under load also do you have a power commander fitted? May be worth disconnecting this and trying it as standard to rule it out, if you got no
fault codes it's bound to be something daft like previously said check all earths and battery leads and a good check round all the multi plug
connections
[Edited on 6/1/13 by chicade]
|
|
|
chicade
|
| posted on 6/1/13 at 03:33 PM |
|
|
Where in Spain are you bob my parents live in costa del sol and my dads a keen and very able mechanic and virtually built my Mk from scratch
converting it from car engine to r1 if your not too far away am sure he would help
|
|
|
bobinspain
|
| posted on 6/1/13 at 04:22 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by chicade
Where in Spain are you bob my parents live in costa del sol and my dads a keen and very able mechanic and virtually built my Mk from scratch
converting it from car engine to r1 if your not too far away am sure he would help
I'm an hour north of Valencia (unfortunately).
My usual mechanic/spark is utterly snowed with prepping his own vehicles to be shipped to Nigeria.
I do have a Power Commander 5 fitted. I'll re-check all contacts. It does indeed feel for all the world like a simple misfire.
I recall moons ago, (30 yrs) I had a Rover 3.5 and the spark was arcing across the inside of the distributor cap due to carbon deposits. Similar
effect. Goes like a good-un, then rrrrrrrrrrr, power loss at the same revs each time.
It's got to be something simple.
[Edited on 6/1/13 by bobinspain]
|
|
|
