Chaz
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| posted on 1/9/13 at 08:38 AM |
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Question about Clarke pillar drill
I have just purchased a Clarke CDP5DD (entry level) pillar drill and was wondering which pillar drill vices I'm restricted too? As far as I can
see the only vice made by Clarke is the CDV30C 3" vice. I'm a noob regarding pillar drills so please let me know if I'm asking the
right questions! Am I only able to use a Clarke vice in their pillar drills? I would imagine not, but this is the level of knowledge I'm at with
this stuff. Any advice on these areas is very welcome!
Cheers
Charlie
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Peteff
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| posted on 1/9/13 at 08:45 AM |
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The slots in drill vices are pretty universal so as long as a couple line up with the holes in your table you should be fine.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Chaz
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| posted on 1/9/13 at 09:38 AM |
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What would be the largest vice I could use on my pillar drill?
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clanger
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| posted on 1/9/13 at 10:02 AM |
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nice little 4" should do you for most jobs. wouldn't bother going too large/expensive on the drill you bought. A quality Abwood might
break the table off 
keep on eye on the bay of decay, plenty of stuff kicking round on there. best of luck and don't forget to clamp it down if you're new to
drilling. even an entry level machine will do you some damage if the drill snatches 
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Chaz
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| posted on 1/9/13 at 10:29 AM |
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Great advice - many thanks 
Charlie
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trextr7monkey
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| posted on 1/9/13 at 11:45 AM |
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Hi Charlie
We have quite a few drills used by school kids who all have to bé trained to use machines safely and confidently and you are quite right to ask before
diving in. We insist that every thing being drilled is held down either in machine vices, cross vices or quite often just clamped to the table on top
of a block of plywood / mdf and the table clamped to the pillar, so a small pair of bog standard G cramps will bé very handy and prob out last lots of
the ratchet clamps aimed at getting cash out of pockets
For repetitive jobs we often make up drilling jigs consisting of abase board with a raise L shaped edge to rest work against tostop it spinning
cunningly positioned below drill to allow piles of thin stuff to bé drilled simultaneously or clock faces get hole dead in centre etc.
Have fun stay safe
Mike
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14016102@N00/ (cut and paste this dodgey link)
Our most recent pics are here:
http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p211/trextr7monkey/
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MikeR
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| posted on 1/9/13 at 03:54 PM |
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this might be obvious but leave some goggles on the handle so you have to move them to use the drill. should make sure you use the goggles - drill
bits can shatter and you don't want your eyes being what stosps them.
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Chaz
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| posted on 4/9/13 at 08:25 PM |
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Thanks Mike and Mike R.
Question - Do you use any cutting compounds or lubricants for specific metals? Have you got any guides for drilling speeds for different metals?
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 4/9/13 at 09:24 PM |
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I have a bigger Clarke pillar drill, and it has a list of recommended speeds inside the lid that covers the drive belts. This also shows how to
position the 2 belts to get each speed. Maybe yours has too? Or perhaps the handbook gives a guide?
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nick205
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| posted on 4/9/13 at 09:44 PM |
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Useful guide to drilling speeds here - drilling guide
Generally, the smaller the diameter, the higher the rpm.
Also pay attention to the speed and force with which you drill the hole. Let the drill do the work and don't force it - this will come with a
bit of practice, but if the drill is chattering or squealing you're probably applying too much pressure.
"peck" drilling is a useful technique as well. Drill a little then raise the drill and allow the swarf to clear before drilling a little
further. This helps in several ways; reducing the chance of clogging the drill bit, reducing heat build up (both help preserve the drill bit) and
getting a better finish on the hole.
If you're drilling thin material, it really helps to clamp it to a piece of timber and drill into the timber. This usually gives a much cleaner
hole with less burring on the underside of the material.
Finally, it's worth buying decent drill bits and looking after them. IMHO cheap ones are a false economy and give poor results.
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