furryeggs
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| posted on 27/2/17 at 09:35 PM |
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Emerald ECU K3 question.
I'm now pretty much ready to fire up the engine for the first time but have a quick question regarding the ECU, I'm sure the wiring is all
ok, checked and double checked, and I have power to the correct pins (11 & 28). The power on LED lights when the ignitions on position 1&2
but when cranking the ECU LED goes out, stop cranking and it comes back on... Is this normal.
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ash_hammond
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| posted on 27/2/17 at 10:19 PM |
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It should be red while the ignition is on and then go green when the engine is cranking.
.: www.mac1motorsports.co.uk | www.m1moc.com :.
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CNHSS1
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| posted on 28/2/17 at 06:54 AM |
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Likely the edu isn't seeing the crank angle sensor, gap between toothed wheel and sensor too big?
"Racing is life, everything else, before or after, is just waiting"---Steve McQueen
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furryeggs
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| posted on 28/2/17 at 08:30 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by CNHSS1
Likely the edu isn't seeing the crank angle sensor, gap between toothed wheel and sensor too big?
If thats the case is there a different crank sensor? I've got a standard mondeo 2.0 zetec with a 1.8 flywheel and clutch.
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CNHSS1
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| posted on 28/2/17 at 08:45 AM |
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First thing is to confirm that it is missing the crank signal, connect up to laptop and read the signal when cranking. If it's the same setup as
OEM is likely to be correct just ensure it's wired correctly and that it's working via the laptop screen.
Iirc there's a tick box for two differing styles on sensor, check you have the correct one ticked for your sensor type (hall effect probably?)
"Racing is life, everything else, before or after, is just waiting"---Steve McQueen
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ash_hammond
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| posted on 28/2/17 at 09:28 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by CNHSS1
First thing is to confirm that it is missing the crank signal, connect up to laptop and read the signal when cranking. If it's the same setup as
OEM is likely to be correct just ensure it's wired correctly and that it's working via the laptop screen.
Iirc there's a tick box for two differing styles on sensor, check you have the correct one ticked for your sensor type (hall effect probably?)
This had me too, there are several options with the K6, I had the wrong option ticket and it would just not fire. Unticked crank sensor, fired right
up. MX5's only have a cam sensor.
.: www.mac1motorsports.co.uk | www.m1moc.com :.
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furryeggs
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| posted on 28/2/17 at 03:04 PM |
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Well that was easier than i thought, although i had double checked everything, always tripple check. Once plugged into the laptop when the engine
cranked it was loosing connection with the ECU. Not sure what was going on but i checked the wiring and the +12v ignition supply was also supplying
one of the relays. I swapped it for a spare green +12v under the dash and BINGO, It now stays connected and i can see the crank sensor on the screen.
I do need to sort out where to locate my airtemp sensor? in the filter or outside...
I now just need water and some go juice to fire her up? Hopefully... Fire extinguishers ready
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furryeggs
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| posted on 2/3/17 at 08:57 PM |
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Starting/settings K3
Now my wirings finalised it's time to start trying to fire up. I'm running a 2.0 Zetec, Emerald K3 ECU, Hayabusa 45mm TB's and
injectors. The current maps came with the laptop and ECU when i purchased it from a member on here running the same set up. Only had about an hour on
this today so I've not had much time to look into it further.
This is how far I've got so far...
-Water systems all plumbed in and filled 1 minor leak needed sorting.
-Small amount of fuel in the tank, enough to prime the pump and circulate through regulator and back to tank, again 1 minor leak needed nipping up,
currently pumping at 5bar.
-I had to match the ECU to my TPS and that now reads ok on the screen. Is there anything else that will need the same?
-On the live adjustment screen it's reading my crank sensor ok, about 200rpm, is that enough?
-Voltage drops from reading 12.8v to 7.8 on cranking, brand new 45Ah, 425cca when the pumps running, if i pull the fuse the voltage stays at around
10-11v.
-Not 100% sure on spark/ignition but I think the injectors are finally started getting fuel as there is a smell of fuel in th TB's.
-And my battery cable gets warm, should i increase the size or add a 2nd lead. Its 200amp rated.
Is there a screen that allows me to see injector/ignition firing/or not...
any help is appreciated.
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Daf
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| posted on 3/3/17 at 08:49 AM |
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I don't know if the K3 is the same as the K6 - but when cranking the red LED should turn from red to green. I suspect if the LED is going off
you're losing power to the ECU. With a laptop plugged in does the ECU go "offline" when you crank it?
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furryeggs
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| posted on 3/3/17 at 09:49 AM |
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It did, but thats now sorted and crank signal is ok. led goes green.
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Daf
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| posted on 3/3/17 at 10:00 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by furryeggs
It did, but thats now sorted and crank signal is ok. led goes green.
If it goes green then the ECU is reading okay so the cranking speed is okay and should be firing your injectors and spark.
One thing to check - is your crank signal cable close to the starter wire? I've had problems with this confusing the ECU - if it doesn't
pick up the crank signal straight away it wont start even though the LED goes green after a second or so of cranking. I had my crank signal wire and
starter cable clipped together.
If you open the throttle bodies can you see the injectors firing during cranking? have you set up the TPS sensor in the software to fully open/closed
positions?
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furryeggs
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| posted on 3/3/17 at 11:48 AM |
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Cables are hanging loose so are close but not touching. I'll make sure to separate them if to close. Haven't check for injectors firing
but there is a deffinate smell of petrol when opened, I'm running a dead head set up so I could just need to loosen off the hose at the
TB's to bleed any remaining air? I've got some spark plug testers so I'll put them on and check for spark, I think with only 7-8v
there might not be enough juice whilst cranking, the battery is brand new but has been in the garage since November and been cranking on and off for a
while so I've put it on charge just to make sure.
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furryeggs
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| posted on 3/3/17 at 12:17 PM |
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TPS is set as well
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CNHSS1
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| posted on 3/3/17 at 02:01 PM |
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Emerald is sensitive to input voltage, unless you have a really good battery source it wont go, will crank but won't run. Ensure the battery is
healthy and well charged or you'll be churning all day...
"Racing is life, everything else, before or after, is just waiting"---Steve McQueen
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Daf
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| posted on 3/3/17 at 02:40 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by CNHSS1
Emerald is sensitive to input voltage, unless you have a really good battery source it wont go, will crank but won't run. Ensure the battery is
healthy and well charged or you'll be churning all day...
Direct from the K3/K6 Manual:
Battery voltage
The voltage supplying the ECU. The displayed voltage should indicate approximately 12.5–14.5 volts
when the alternator is charging. If the battery voltage is showing higher or lower than this, the alternator
condition should be checked. Also the battery voltage can be monitored while cranking. A very low
voltage may seriously impair the performance of the coil/injectors etc. and make starting difficult. A
battery voltage of 9–10 volts while cranking is normal and there needs to be a minimum of 6v for the
ECU to operate.
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CNHSS1
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| posted on 4/3/17 at 01:08 AM |
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Yeah i read the manual too, but you'd be surprised at how easily some garage cranking will drop the battery low enough to cause the ecu issues.
Suggest you ensure tye battery is tip top or you will be chasing faults that arent there, been there got the t shirt....
"Racing is life, everything else, before or after, is just waiting"---Steve McQueen
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furryeggs
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| posted on 4/3/17 at 08:47 AM |
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Well, i put the battery on trickle to make sure its charged, It now reads around nd 10v when cranking. Still no spark according to the led testers on
the plugs. Checking through the wiring there was a few wires that seemed to either lead to an unused pin or to a terminal on a relay that it
shouldn't output-output. I spent last night with the wiring diagram and legend and made sure everythings labelled to the diagram and numbered.
I think that +12v to the coil and injectors wasn't right. I've removed this from the loom and the supplying relay and will run a new wire
from a spare unused +12v on my existing loom (heater), The supplied loom came with relays for bits that i don't need so i'm hoping that
removing them (unknown condition) to a good new source will clean up any possible interferance and give me a good seperate +12v supply.
Fingers crossed.
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Schrodinger
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| posted on 4/3/17 at 08:57 AM |
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Make sure that the 12v supply is live when you are cranking as some switch off when cranking.
Keith
Aviemore
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 4/3/17 at 09:29 AM |
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If any doubt about the live feed when cranking try taking a fused feed direct from the battery just to test.
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furryeggs
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| posted on 4/3/17 at 10:21 AM |
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IT'S ALIVE  you beauty... plugged it all back in, checked wiring, fired straight up. Shat myself as i wasn't expecting it.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 4/3/17 at 12:05 PM |
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Don't believe it, there's no start up video. Was it low battery voltage?
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furryeggs
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| posted on 4/3/17 at 01:50 PM |
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I have a video, not sure how to load it on here though??? The 12v supply to the coils and injectors was mixed up somewhere between the relay and ECU.
Scrapped the relay and ran power from a spare +12v heater supply. Battery voltage was a little low but it cranks a lot better now fully charged.
I was worried about oil pressure with my DIY sump and pick up but that all seems ok. My only worry now is my battery light stays on at tickover even
though the alternators running? I'm on nights for the next 4 days so i haven't looked into it further yet, other than that and a new
reverse switch the wiring and plumbing are complete
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