Rory G
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| posted on 27/9/21 at 08:58 PM |
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AJ30 Jag V6 - Standalone ECU Parameters
Bit of context, I've installed a 3.0 AJ30 Jaguar V6 engine from a 2001 S-Type into a TVR S2. Similar to the Ford Duratec v6, but with variable
valve timing. An absolute nightmare but I'm beginning to see light at the end of the tunnel.
I'm now looking for any data I can get to help with the initial start-up as I understand some people on here have carried out similar
conversions.
I'm after information on injectors, coils, and sensor values if possible. Alternatively if someone doesn't mind sending a base map I can
extract what I need from that to get me going!
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40inches
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| posted on 27/9/21 at 10:05 PM |
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What ECU?
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Rory G
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| posted on 27/9/21 at 10:20 PM |
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Ah missed that.
I'll be using an Ecumaster Emu, so this should allow fully sequential operation (once I've figured out the cam trigger pattern)
I'll have 1 Wideband. Retaining the IMT valves, standard alternator, COPs and injectors etc.
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CosKev3
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| posted on 28/9/21 at 03:15 PM |
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I've just got mine running on a Mondeo coilpack running batch fire injection, runs like a dream and makes great power.
Such a simple engine to run like this,crank sensor,TPS,coolant temp sensor and air temp sensor and it's running!
What's you reason for wanting to run fully sequential?
My mapper says there are no gains to be had power or running wise,just more things to go wrong and more hours on the RR to map it! 
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sdh2903
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| posted on 28/9/21 at 04:38 PM |
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I have fully sequential and was no drama to map at all. Even from the dreadful barely running emerald base map it was mapped in 3 and a bit hours.
Only 2 wires for 1 cam sensor. Cops can be problematic if using the donor ones. I fitted a full new set of ngk coils for less than it would have cost
to swap to a new edis 6 coil and custom leads.
I was told the fully sequential was better/smoother at low engine speeds and better economy and the engine was designed to run fully sequential so why
not use it. You pays your money you takes your choice......
Emerald asked me what config I was running and the ecu came pre programmed for it.
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Rory G
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| posted on 28/9/21 at 04:55 PM |
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Tbh I was going to go in another direction and buy a speeduino and run wasted spark, but this one came up and has all the appropriate drivers for the
COPs. The only reason I will go for sequential is because I can, although it would be easier to go for batch fire...
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Zangie
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| posted on 8/4/22 at 10:13 PM |
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Zangie
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| posted on 8/4/22 at 10:14 PM |
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Zangie
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| posted on 8/4/22 at 10:15 PM |
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Zangie
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| posted on 8/4/22 at 10:16 PM |
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 2/8/23 at 10:15 AM |
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Bit of a thread resurection with some more sensor questions, if any one has any ideas?
On my earlier version of the S-Type AJ30 I don't have a coolant temperature sensor, instead I have a head temp sensor. I don't like not
having a coolant sensor so I will add one, but I was wondering if there is any benefit in using the head temp sensor as well? (Assuming the Emerald
ECU can use it.) The same goes for the knock sensors, can these be of use?
Also, is there an AJ30 way of adding a coolant sensor, or is it a case of adding an aftermarket one in-line to the top coolant hose? I have a picture
of the sensors on the newer version of the engine which has a sensor built into the coolant exit pipe, presumably this could be retrofitted to the
older engine?
Thanks
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sdh2903
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| posted on 2/8/23 at 10:51 AM |
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I don't use either the cyl head temp or knock sensors. Am pretty sure the emerald doesnt support knock sensors, unless your going big boosted
power I don't think they're needed. Especially as UK fuel is pretty consistent.
With regards the cyl head temp sensor. If you found out the accurate calibration you could use it and run it into the aux temp pin of the emerald. I
used the aux temp for an oil temp sensor instead which is much more useful as I have my emerald connected via can to display the info on the dash.
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40inches
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| posted on 2/8/23 at 11:21 AM |
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I used a hose adaptor for the engine temp gauge and ECU temp sender.
 
Description
 
Description
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 2/8/23 at 12:52 PM |
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Thanks Dave, thats good to know.
I had hoped to take a dash gauge signal from the ECU but didn't get as far as investigating if this is an option. I will check tis now, so your
picture has probably saved me some hassle!
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 2/8/23 at 01:04 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by sdh2903
I don't use either the cyl head temp or knock sensors. Am pretty sure the emerald doesnt support knock sensors, unless your going big boosted
power I don't think they're needed. Especially as UK fuel is pretty consistent.
With regards the cyl head temp sensor. If you found out the accurate calibration you could use it and run it into the aux temp pin of the emerald. I
used the aux temp for an oil temp sensor instead which is much more useful as I have my emerald connected via can to display the info on the dash.
Thanks Steve, this makes sense. I think this all tells me I need to understand the Emerald inputs before I get too much further into the wiring.
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 23/8/23 at 07:30 AM |
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I have the Emarald ECU, an electric water pump and separate instruments, the penny is slowly dropping that I am going to need three coolant temp
sensors, unless I have missed something? It seems excessive! I had hoped that the Emerald would control the water pump and provide an output for the
instruments, but it seems this is not the case.
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sdh2903
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| posted on 26/8/23 at 08:16 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Partofthechaos
I have the Emarald ECU, an electric water pump and separate instruments, the penny is slowly dropping that I am going to need three coolant temp
sensors, unless I have missed something? It seems excessive! I had hoped that the Emerald would control the water pump and provide an output for the
instruments, but it seems this is not the case.
No you wont need 3 sensors if you don't wish.
The emerald is capable of running an electric water pump via a PWM output. Speak to Karl at emerald, he is very helpful.
You don't need to use the default coolant sensor from emerald, if for instance you are using a coolant sensor for a gauge, as long as you know
the calibration data for the sensor, you can also use this as the temp sensor for the ecu, you just programme it in the config.
So in theory yes the K6 can run the water pump and you'd only need 1 coolant sensor, as long as you have the calibration info. The only thing to
be wary of is regarding the pwm output, I use this for VVT control, so check to see if it can do both.
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 28/8/23 at 06:23 PM |
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Thank you, that sounds promising. I will give them a call.
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 12/9/23 at 08:29 PM |
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I eventually got round to calling Emerald today, the output for controlling the water pump is only on or off, so fine for vvt, but it won't step
a water pump up or down. So I expect I need an external controller for that. Also as my gauges are analogue the ECU can't sent out a signal for
this, CAN only. So I think I am back to needing 3 sensors.
quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
I used a hose adaptor for the engine temp gauge and ECU temp sender.
Description
Description
Could you tell me where you got the housing with two sensor ports please?
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sdh2903
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| posted on 12/9/23 at 08:43 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Partofthechaos
I eventually got round to calling Emerald today, the output for controlling the water pump is only on or off, so fine for vvt, but it won't step
a water pump up or down. So I expect I need an external controller for that. Also as my gauges are analogue the ECU can't sent out a signal for
this, CAN only. So I think I am back to needing 3 sensors.
quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
I used a hose adaptor for the engine temp gauge and ECU temp sender.
Description
Description
Could you tell me where you got the housing with two sensor ports please?
Ive definitely heard of the emerald operating a water pump via the pwm output, yes it's an on/off signal but you use that to switch relays, i.e
when the pwm is off (say programmed at lower temps) the water pump runs at slow speed, when the coolant temps are higher it switches on via another
relay to operate the pump at high speed. Ill see if i can dig out the build blog. Its no bad thing to have it separate mind you, If youve not already
bought a pump have a look at the tinycwp kits with the pierburg pumps, they are far more robust and flow better than the davies craig ones.
Ref the sensors, what sensor/gauges are you using, as long as you can obtain the calibration for it you can use it for the sensor for the ecu no
problem.
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 13/9/23 at 07:16 AM |
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Thank you, yes I have a Pierberg so I was looking at the controller, but hoping to not have 3 sensors. If that is the best option then so be it, the
next problem is where to put them all! If the Emerald control would be a bit clunkly then it makes sense to have the tinycwp controlling the Pierberg
ortherwise there is minimal benefit over the belt driven pump which would have been easier.
The gauges I have are ETB, they use an earthed sensor, but are mechanical rather than CAN.
On another note I was so sad to see your car, hopefully you get a reasonable resolution from the insurance. I was wondering if you could get a donor
Westfield to transplant your good bits into rather than getting a new chassis and bodywork for your existing car. Might be simpler and cheaper? It
was even more frustraiting that you had just managed to get it how you wanted it. Either way fingers crossed for a swift resolution.
[Edited on 13/9/23 by Partofthechaos]
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40inches
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| posted on 13/9/23 at 09:19 AM |
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I got my adaptor from ASH on eBay, I drilled and tapped the extra connections.
eBay
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 13/9/23 at 10:18 AM |
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That makes sense, it explains why I couldn't find one on the shelf anywhere!
I was wondering if there was enough meat on the housing for the threads, so if this is what you have then it must work fine.
I was also not too sure on the sensor length and if they would foul on each other before seating to sufficient depth, presumably they are either short
enough or you needed them staggered? If this works then hopefully I can add three to one housing which would make things simpler.
Thanks for the support, I want to get the car finished for the spring, but I wouldn't be able to get there without the locost knowledge.
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 5/4/24 at 01:08 PM |
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I have heard mention on here that the default Emerald map for the AJ30 is a bit rubbish, does anyone have a better one they could send me please?
Hopefully it will make it easier to get it to a rolling road.
Thanks
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