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Author: Subject: Bike carbs
Stuart_B

posted on 15/4/08 at 06:31 PM Reply With Quote
Bike carbs

Hi all, my car started up on bike carbs for the first time today.

So now i need to know do i need to do anythink to them?

thanks

stuart





black mk indy, 1.6pinto on cbr600 bike carb's.

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r1_pete

posted on 15/4/08 at 06:35 PM Reply With Quote
Rolling road tune up, get everything spot on, IMO...






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Stuart_B

posted on 15/4/08 at 06:37 PM Reply With Quote
I have not done anythink to the jets? ho wwould i know if i have two?

stuart





black mk indy, 1.6pinto on cbr600 bike carb's.

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r1_pete

posted on 15/4/08 at 06:41 PM Reply With Quote
Whats the setup, my zetec 1.8 with 2.0L cams, ZZR1100 40mm carbs, Boggs supplied 170 (1.7mm) mains as a relliable start point. Mind they seem to bore most mains to 1.7 judging by past threads on here....






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Stuart_B

posted on 15/4/08 at 06:44 PM Reply With Quote
a 1.6 pinto, with 38mm bore carbs, i belive? not to sure what size the jets are one them? as they came of the bike went on the manifold frist trun of the key and it started straight up,once the car was propley timmed.

stuart





black mk indy, 1.6pinto on cbr600 bike carb's.

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r1_pete

posted on 15/4/08 at 06:54 PM Reply With Quote
I'd go for 1.5 to 1.6mm then a rolling road session, at that sort of size you're not going to run weak and hole pistons. Sure someone on here will have a similar setup.






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Stoo

posted on 15/4/08 at 09:17 PM Reply With Quote
On the same note, where is a good rolling road to get bike carbs/megajolt setup?

Got a 2.0 litre blacktop zetec on redrilled R6 carbs.

Stoo

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DarrenW

posted on 16/4/08 at 08:32 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Stuart_B
I have not done anythink to the jets? ho wwould i know if i have two?

stuart


Firstly - well done on getting the car started. If you are like me you would have turned the key, engine fired up and then start wondering what all the fuss is about. Almost an anti climax apart from the new sounds.

Back to your Q - You wont from just driving the car. If its close enough to run it will probs go a lot better than before. Mine did and it was scary weak.

Mine is 2.0 pinto, ported and cammed top end, std bottom. Good exhaust, big K&N challenger. ZZR1100. Boggs manifold. 1.6 jets (hand drilled), blocked air correction holes, screws 3 turns out, needles in mid position.
Dave had to do a fair bit of fiddling with needle seats and position to get the mixture steady through the rev range. It was a different car afterwards. After RR it was 120bhp at back wheels, i reckon a 30 increase over the old weber (that i never had set up correctly).

After experiencing the RR set up i doubt you can achieve same result at home. I rate Boggs for the full experience. Steve and bro were great with fabrication and Dave was brilliant to talk to for the set up. So patient and exact - gave me lots of confidence in the work.
If you want fancy lights, print out reports and max power figures for bragging with then go else where. If you want solid no nonesense good old school tuning then try Boggs. You need to get timing and head etc set up yourself - they restricted my tune to carbs only but allowed me to adjust timing via megajolt a touch (mainly to bring max advance in better).






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DarrenW

posted on 16/4/08 at 08:36 AM Reply With Quote
Just noticed Stoo is in Kent...... mmmmmm bit of a long drive that one. Took me almost 2 hours each way and im a lot closer. They are in the country so after the motorway there is still a good drive on slower roads.
Not sure who closer can do bike carbs. Probs not too dissimilar to normal old school carbs if you can find tuner but you may get stung ome extra time. With people like Boggs you score as they have done the learning already. only cost me £60 odd quid, which for 3 hours + was a bargain. Oh and free entry into the museum






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r1_pete

posted on 16/4/08 at 09:39 AM Reply With Quote
Darren, whats the reason behind blocking the air correction holes?
Cheers.
Pete.






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DarrenW

posted on 16/4/08 at 10:01 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by r1_pete
Darren, whats the reason behind blocking the air correction holes?
Cheers.
Pete.


You are just going to love this reply.......

I have no bloody idea whatsoever!!!! I assume they are air correction holes. There are small holes visible when you look inside carbs - its the hole in line with needle that i blocked on Boggs advice. I used 2mm ali welding rod, left a bit long in case they need to be pulled out.






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DarrenW

posted on 16/4/08 at 10:06 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Stuart_B
a 1.6 pinto, with 38mm bore carbs, i belive? not to sure what size the jets are one them? as they came of the bike went on the manifold frist trun of the key and it started straight up,once the car was propley timmed.

stuart


Std carbs are very likely to have small jets. If you take them out they will have a number on them. 135 - 1.35mm, 155 - 1.55mm etc. Of course if theyve been drilled before these numbers no longer count. Igot a set of new small drills in 0.1mm increments. Used the 1.6mm drill by hand - ended up as a nice slide fit (ie not oversized). Worked well on 2.0 pinto / 40mm chokes. Dont know what you should start with on 1.6, i suspect if they are only 135's currently then they will be too small. Apparently if you go too big they can be soldered up and redrilled.


How have you got mixture screws and needle heights set?






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jacko

posted on 16/4/08 at 08:23 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by r1_pete
Darren, whats the reason behind blocking the air correction holes?
Cheers.
Pete.

Hi Bogg Bro told me it stops them going weak at high revs
Jacko

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