mkblade
|
| posted on 29/4/08 at 10:50 PM |
|
|
mk rear silencer
as above ive taken the silencer off the car drilled out the rivets but i cant get the end piece of as it was slightly blowing on the joint,can anyone
give me any pointers about getting the tail pipe peice off so i can put some firegum around it.
many thanks
smon
|
|
|
|
|
Mr Whippy
|
| posted on 30/4/08 at 07:38 AM |
|
|
The thought occurred that the end piece does not actually come off and that infact it is joined to the other end by a central pipe.
Perhaps if you drill out the rivets at the other end the outside sleeve will slide off?
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 30/4/08 at 10:16 AM |
|
|
The other end is fully welded.
I have the same job to do to stop it blowing (and rattling) from the rear end 
I think part of the problem is that the weight of the system is supported after the silencer by the tab welded onto the end cone.
Not sure how you get it apart yet, but I plan to put a few small tacks of weld around it when I reassemble it to add extra mechanical support.
....sorry to hijack your thread!
|
|
|
Schrodinger
|
| posted on 30/4/08 at 12:48 PM |
|
|
Can I suggest clear silicon sealant rather than exhaust paste, it's more flexible and will not burn off, don't use a coloured sealant
though as the pigment will burn.
Keith
Aviemore
|
|
|
John22000
|
| posted on 30/4/08 at 05:19 PM |
|
|
Hi Simon,
I've had to do this on mine as well, the end DOES come off but it is a real pig to remove.
There are three parts to the exhaust, the outer sleeve (all welded to the front section), an inner perforated pipe and the end cap that you are trying
to get off.
The perforated pipe runs straightdown the center in one piece and is a little longer than the outer can. Its an interference fit into the pipes either
side of the cones, if you know what I mean.
It because of this that its a nightmare to get apart.
I finished up taking off the curved tailpipe so I could see down the can. You should be able to see the perforated pipe. I finished up using a small
chisel + and old screwdriver to bend the perforated pipe in a bit so I could finally separate the parts. You should be able to bend it all back before
you reasemble it, so its a tight fit again.
I drilled an extra four holes for rivets evenly round the can, making eight now in total.
Make sure you use stainless rivets as well as aluminium ones might expand at different rates and come loose.
Hope this helps,
John
|
|
|
mkblade
|
| posted on 30/4/08 at 05:38 PM |
|
|
many thanks for thr replys,i did drill 4 more holes with more rivets thinking this would cure it still blowing a bit.
will try again soon
|
|
|
