DaveFJ
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| posted on 3/5/08 at 08:22 PM |
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megasquirt advice
ok.. lets have your opinions.....
i have just loaded up rthe map that a kind gentleman of here sent me...
prior to that i was running the default basic map.
before it idled reasonablyt but spat back a bit and when you try get beyond 1st gear it spluters
new map and it starts but and sounds smoother but dies within a few seconds. tapping the throttle just kills it straight away...
so.. opinions wanted
cheers
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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mark chandler
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| posted on 3/5/08 at 08:47 PM |
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Have you recalibrated the TPS?
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paulf
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| posted on 3/5/08 at 09:04 PM |
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Try increasing the warm up enrichments, have you adjusted the supllied map to suit you injector flow rates?.
Paul
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 3/5/08 at 09:13 PM |
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carried over the calibrated TPS settings from the old map.
must admit i didnt adjust for the injector flow rates.. oops
I have dropped the whole table down by 11 which bring the idle area back close to what it was at before, but i haven't run it yet... SWMBO made
me come in - apparently I had been out playing for long enough 
Getting a little stressed now... got the brakes working today but still need to get the engine running properly and the bonnet still needs fitting,
and it's SVA on thursday!!...
[Edited on 3-5-08 by DaveFJ]
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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MkIndy7
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| posted on 3/5/08 at 09:51 PM |
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I'd hate to be defeatist but with an SVA pending on thursday i'd be looking at putting the original carb, a mechanical fuel pump and a
Dizzy back on it.
Either beg steal or borrow the above components, or certainly go trawling the scrappers!.
I've been trying for about a month on and off to get the MS mapped weather permitting etc and I wouldn't be volenteering if for any
emissions tests at the moment!.
There's just too many different settings and variables to get it correct in such a short time frame, every engine and setup is different and
certainly if you can't drive it on the road or have a Rolling Road session booked.
I'm sure people will help all they can but it aint easy and thats my honest opinion and advice.. go back to the old school components to get it
through the SVA and then play with all the fancy electricery for performance etc later!
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 3/5/08 at 09:59 PM |
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what old components... this was always an efi engine.......
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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MkIndy7
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| posted on 3/5/08 at 10:11 PM |
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Well that makes it a little harder...
But other than having to make an adapter gasket from the round carb inlets to the oval injection ports everything else should be pretty much straight
bolt on componets and all likely to be obtainable from the scrapyard, or even borrowed from somebody on here if your lucky.
Maybe with the older emission limits allowed for the Pinto you might sneek it though running on the MS, but without being able to drive it or have it
on a rolling road before the SVA just loading up a map isin't likely to be close enough.
Maybe if the MS is running the igintion ok you might get away with just bolting a carb on and using a mechanical pump (as the efi electric one will be
too powerful) without having to go to the trouble of scourcing a dizzy as well.
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darrens
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| posted on 3/5/08 at 11:20 PM |
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if it's any comfort, two days pior to my SVA I hadn't got MS running, however determination got it running good enough to tickover ok, and
drive (if nursed very gently to the SVA).
If it starts and dies after a few seconds, most likely warmup settings.
If it starts and dies instantly, look at increasing req fuel, you can always adjust back when you have it running.
Some engines require vasts amount of air intially on startup, mine requires tanker loads of fuel i.e more enrichment.
Persist with it cos you'll find it well worth while.
Cheers
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mark chandler
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| posted on 3/5/08 at 11:49 PM |
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Another thing to do is log the data when running, you have a number of options with tach pickup, bridge xy1 to xy2, short out d8 etc.
If you get a good ide but its pants after that it may be getting a poor tach signal, the logs will show this, hold the engine a high revs for 20
seconds then see if the log results show a steady correct rpm.
Having spent the last 2 days fiddling with this I know from bitter experience.
My car idled and seemed to rev okay, try to pull away and nothing. However rapid dabbing of the throttle got me moving as the accel enrichments throws
in fuel.
Regards Mark
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 4/5/08 at 10:52 AM |
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okay...
got to get this sorted or i will have to cancel my trip to stoneliegh tomorrow just to work o n the car
current situation is this... I have removed the spark map i was sent and set that back to a very basic map. I have kept the VE map.
It now starts and idles but occsaionally pops back at the TBs... I have a reasonable steady idle and it can drive - kind of.... just waiting for the
copper next door to go out for the day so i can try it a little up the road!
I think the popping must be down to spark table settings but... anhyone care to hazard guess which way? I have been upping them in very small
increments but not sure if that is correct... also my waster temp sender seems a little out - could this effect things once it has warmed up? I guess
not......
Idle is a smidge slow @700 so will tweak that up a tiny bit.
anyone in suffolk feeling bored today and think thy have a better clue than me?.... 
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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MkIndy7
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| posted on 4/5/08 at 11:33 AM |
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I'd try a a few spark maps a couple of Degrees either way, and see what changes and if its any better if thats what you suspect is wrong.
There should be an option to "shift" the table by X amount in the table editor. (not scale as that goes crazy).
By upping the advance at idle that also speeds up the idle RPM
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 4/5/08 at 02:32 PM |
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OK... bit happier
advnacd the whole spark map 2 degrees and it's running a bit smoother.. but also discovered that the temp sensore osn't working hence
it kept thinking it still warming up ... 
swapped the connector to the gauge one and set it up with easy therm...
now working better... still pops a bit but running well enough to get to Norwich for SVA...
only thing is now my temp gauge doesn't work..... is that a fail?
rev counter is also reading 1/2 true rpm but I can't correct that with the settings on the back so will have to work out a different way of
doing that... (also post SVA!)... maybe via ms pin out....
cheers for everyones help
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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NS Dev
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| posted on 4/5/08 at 04:11 PM |
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no fuel guage is fine, still not got one on mine, not needed one yet.
Never had a rev counter either for sva either.
In fact I had no guages at all, and now only have a rev counter. Have a high water temp light and a low oil press light
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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Schrodinger
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| posted on 4/5/08 at 05:12 PM |
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You don't need a temp guage for the SVA nor the tacho. When I had my SVA at Norwich in 2002 the tacho was doing as yours, I found afterwards
that there was a problem with the earth.
Keith
Aviemore
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 4/5/08 at 09:07 PM |
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quote:
no fuel guage is fine,
Sorry to hijack but did you mean to say temp gauge NSDEV??
If you did mean fuel gauge then that's a bit of work less for me then
Got all this megasquirt stuff to worry about in the near future
If it looks wrong it probably is wrong.
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 19/5/08 at 07:47 PM |
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OK car is now on the road but still running like a pig.....
I have attached my latest map and log file...
anyone fancy having a look to see if there is any advice they can offer?
log file:
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 19/5/08 at 07:47 PM |
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and the msq:
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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