I am about to start the engine but found that the airbox temp sender was missing.
Can I shorten this to ground or can I use an other type (ZX9 or so)?

You'll certainly need a sensor there if you want the ECU to map the fuel properly, I have no idea if they are the same on ZX9s etc, obviously it would need to be an injected ZX9 as you dont get these sensors on carbed engines.

erwe - you could fool the ECU by calculating the resistance output at an ambient temperature and put in series a resistor to electronic-trickery the ECU into thinking one is there. However, you are better off getting one as the temperature where you are is almost as erratic as where we are

No you can't short it - the FI module needs it.

rob

my manual says ( in german):
Widerstand des Ansaugluft-Temperatursensors
Normalwert: 657 – 1003 kΩ bei 0°C
68 - 89 kΩ bei 50°C
11,95 – 14,37 kΩ bei 100°C.

koen

equals:
Resistance of the Ansaugluft-Temperature sensors standard value: 657 – 1003 kΩ in 0°C 68 - 89 kΩ
in 50°C 11.95 – 14.37 kΩ in 100°C.

assume 'k&#' = Ohms
None the wiser? me neither.

Mine is also missing.
Do you know what the price for a new one is?

Arjan

Thanks for the reply, I maybe trick the ECU for first time start with a resistor or a potentiometer but I wil buy a new one...
I will hear the price tomorrow from a bike dealer.

They never fuel injected ZX9s. I have had almost every model and they have all been carbs.

if short to ground it will be an unknown value => ecu goes in error mode and will assume it is 20degrees..

TKS

It's alive!!!
I got the original sensor and after making some shortcuts I could start it.
Dry sump and engine are OK but the electric waterpump makes a noise I don't like, maybe air or so???
Someone has experience with a Graig Davis Electric Water Pump?
Also the fuel tanks leaks at the pump.

hi rob

good job...........

the CDavies ewp must be "soft mounted" ", not rigid so that the housing is able to expand.


koen

You must make sure that you bleed all the air out of the cooling system before running the engine in anger.

You do this by connecting the positive and negative connections on the pump directly to a battery - make sure the pump is going the correct way.

Top the reservoir up with coolant, then run the pump. It will pull the coolant into the system quite quickly if the pump's going the right way. Keep adding coolant to the reservoir and repeating the procedure until all of the air is expelled from the system - the pump will make a 'buzzing' sound and you shouldn't hear air being pumped through it. This is what makes the strange noise when you first run the pump.

There will be a point where the pump won't pull any more fluid into the system, and it will remain in the reservoir. When this happens, top the reservoir to the 'max' mark, secure the cap, then start the engine.

Run the engine until the fan cycles at least 3 times, then switch off. Allow the pump to circulate the coolant (you should have this controlled by the EWP or directly through the ignition - you may have to key on the ignition to allow it to operate.) When the coolant has returned to approx. ambient temperature (and there's no pressure in the system), remove the reservoir cap and top up to the max level again. That's the procedure complete.

You might find some coolant loss during hard running if the cooling system hasn't been set-up optimally (i.e. the expansion volume in the reservoir isn't sufficient, or the cooling fan switch-on and duration isn't timed correctly, or both). It's then a case of adjusting the coolant volume/fan switch-on to ensure the system works correctly.

On the LMP we have the pump and the fan timed so that, after a hard run, when the engine is switched off, the pump and fan operate together to quickly cool the engine.

You also need to be careful about the current draw that this generates as you could be left with a flat battery very quickly if using the standard bike battery!

[Edited on 29/5/05 by tadltd]