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Ford Focus Alternator
Blackbird Rush - 13/12/09 at 12:26 PM

Had a problem with the tin top today, a whine has started (comming from the belt end of the engine) 2.0L Duratec 55 plate.

The battery light comes on below about 2000rpm

Looking at the area all the belts seam OK.

Could this be an alternator failure, bearings?

Car has only done 35K miles.

Common problem?

Thanks for any advice

Ash

rusty nuts - 13/12/09 at 01:20 PM

Use a multi meter and check the charging rate ! Should be around 14v

liam.mccaffrey - 13/12/09 at 02:55 PM

I had a similar problem on my mg zr, the charge light would only stay off below1800rpm. It was a faulty alternator

02GF74 - 13/12/09 at 04:08 PM

aren't the pulleys susceptible to seizing?

is it easy to slacken the belt and try to spin alternator and pulleys to see if that is the case?

(can't remember but this is not the timing belt - if it is and pulley seized, you risk the belt snapping, not good for yer valves/pistons if the engine is runnig)

rusty nuts - 13/12/09 at 04:27 PM

quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
aren't the pulleys susceptible to seizing?

is it easy to slacken the belt and try to spin alternator and pulleys to see if that is the case?

(can't remember but this is not the timing belt - if it is and pulley seized, you risk the belt snapping, not good for yer valves/pistons if the engine is runnig)


Duratec has a timing chain and a timing chain fault wouldn't cause the battery light to come on below 2000rpm!

sminney - 13/12/09 at 07:43 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Blackbird Rush
Could this be an alternator failure, bearings?

Car has only done 35K miles.

Common problem?

Thanks for any advice

Ash


yes - its the alternator. Mine did this 2 months after warranty expired! had the same wine, less than 12v at the battery when the engine was running.....

good news is its an easy job - accessible from below, there's a nice spring loaded tensioner at the top, nearest the slam panel to get the belt off, its a bit tight to get the access, biggest issue i found was getting it out below after it was off the block. There's an A/C line in the way, but managed to wiggle it around it.

at your nearest fraud dealer for Ģ170 + exchange surcharge (or it was last year when i did mine)

HTH

[Edited on 13/12/09 by sminney]

speedyxjs - 13/12/09 at 08:05 PM

quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
aren't the pulleys susceptible to seizing?

is it easy to slacken the belt and try to spin alternator and pulleys to see if that is the case?

(can't remember but this is not the timing belt - if it is and pulley seized, you risk the belt snapping, not good for yer valves/pistons if the engine is runnig)


Duratec has a timing chain and a timing chain fault wouldn't cause the battery light to come on below 2000rpm!


Alternators belt driven though

rusty nuts - 13/12/09 at 08:15 PM

How 's that going to damage the valves and pistons????

Blackbird Rush - 15/12/09 at 07:03 AM

Well as suspected it is the Alternator, got 6 miles yesterday morning before the battery went flat!

all was well (apart from the whine - no batt light) untill suddenly when pulling up at a roundabout the electrics started to go a bit haywire, so i found the nearest layby to call the RAC.

Car is now resting in my local garage after the ordeal, surgery due today, so hope to discharge back to me later on (with my wallet a bit lighter!)

The guy fixing it for me said that this is really common with modern cars, the Alternators just dont last very long......

Ta for the help.

Ash

Angel Acevedo - 15/12/09 at 12:26 PM

Think of it as a go-no go audible warning, you wouldnīt keep driving with a low oil pressure light do you?
If you rebuild before failure, it is cheap.
Bearings fail before brushes (most likely), then when it whines, disassemble, change bearings and brushes put back together and off you go....

PS: I think thereīs a link posted here to a how to rebuild one. I think itīs too late to do a search