:
Been trying to sort this for a week now, but can't fathom it out - apart from the fact that I'm ok with a spanner, I'm rubbish at
electrics.
Here's whats happening:
Car starts up fine and runs well - after a while the rev counter goes bananas and then drops to zero (whatever speed the engine is running at). Then
the indicators and lights go dim, then the battery is drained, so it won't start, but it will if you jump or bump it.
Just had it in my garage with another battery on and the same thing happens. Leave it on tickover with or without lights on (the fan still kicks in
and I've left that disconnected too). It runs fine then after a while the rev counter starts to slowly rise (no increase in engine speed at this
point, still just ticking over) then the rev counter drops to zero again but still ticking over.
Fan cuts in and out ok a couple of times before it happens. All other instruments are working fine before and after it happens too.
Its a Fury with 1600 4age and a Edge CM550 45amp alternator and Odessey battery.
Any ideas
Cheers
My rev counter misbehaves if my battery is low and the alternator has not kicked in and started charging it.
It sounds like you have a short somewhere so it's a process of elimination.
First of all, does it happen when you don't run the engine? Does the battery go flat over a couple of days?
If not, then the short is somewhere in the switched live stuff. If something is capable of flattening the battery whilst the engine is running then
it should be a fairly meaty unfused cable that is doing it. It needs to be high current to do it quickly and if it is one of the smaller cables,
either a fuse would pop or the magis smoke would get out. That would point the finger of suspicion at your starter feed or your alternator feed.
i would try running it up then checking with a multimeter the voltage across your battery.
Should be around 14V if the alternator is working properly
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
what he said or it could also be your alternators rectifier that broke and instead of going in open state it might have gone in a somehow short,
semiconductors can do strange stuff u know
The battery doesn't go flat over a couple of days. If I charge it and leave it for a day or two it will still start the engine - however it only
takes about 15 mins to drain on tickover. Also the lights don't seem to brighten when you blip the throttle, which made me think it might be the
alternator.
I'll take another look tomorrow and see if any heavy cables are getting warm/hot.
I've not seen any smoking cables etc and no fuses have blown.
Cheers
My attention would be to have a careful look at the alternator side of things because if its a dodgy alternator/regulator you may also have a
knackered battery too.
Cheers
Rich
I have the original alternator if I can get it to fit and try that in place of the one thats on now. Just been told its a rascal? I will need to swap
the belt rotor as the one on is ridged and the original is a normal v fanbelt.
I also thought that I could take it to my local alternator/starter motor specialist and ask if they could check it.
I had similar problems with 2 scrap yard alternators, took one to a local specialist bingo no electrical problems since.
The windings in the alternator can be very suspect and difficult to find with a multimeter, few minutes of running and windings can cause all sorts of
problems.
Charging voltage should be 13.7 to 14.2 give or take any charging over 13.5 but less than 15 is good
Sounds like the alternator to me - check the battery voltage with the engine running. If you are getting less than 13.5V then either the alternator is FUBAR or your wiring needs a closer look.
Do you need two feeds to a rascal alternator. if so could be your problem.
ounds like the alternator to me. The battery could also be duff. Faulty alternators can knacker batteries and visa-versa. Will it make it to my place?
I could run an eye over it and test the battery and alternator.
adrian
Cheers Adrian.
I have the alternator off at the moment and thought I might take it to the specialists in the morning and see how quickly they can check it.
If I put it back on with a fully charged battery It will make it to yours but it may be flat for the return journey. Was thinking if i can swap the
pully over (its a bit tight on the rascal and I'm not sure if it will come off easily), I could try the original alternator and see if that fixes
the problem.
Cheers
I had exactly the same problem with running out of electricity. with me it started when the speedo and rev counter dropped and the fan would run all the time but at a low speed. It was my alternator that had packed up and was easily verified with a meter across the battery. Hope you get it sorted.
Cheers lookin more like the alternator from what I've heard here
Please don't kill R1Beccas battery.. booo hooo nasty altenator:
sorry mate just a lump of melted plastic now on me garage floor
im wondering if you dislodged a wire or somehting when you took the carbs off, the aleternator was working the other day when we checked it, so it
could also be a loose wire.
You going to G&S with it.
ps dont forget to go to the bank tonight 
Joe
does sound like alternator is not charging and the power needed by the igniton is draing the battery .... although that does seem rather too short a
time.
if you have one of those little desno ones, then depending on the model - there are quite a few - read too many - variants - the "standard
one" needs switched igniton feed for it to charge - the lamp alone is not enouigh (think that was a james bond movie).
but as ^^^ say, slap on a miultipmeter - maplins have their little digital multimet on spesh off for around £ 4, no excuse not to buy one or four.
(cehaper to buy a meter than a pp9 battery!)
I agree with everyone above, it does sound like you're alternator is kaput. That said, It shouldn't drain the battery that fast as
you're only running a rev counter and ignition system when sat at idle. I think you have a drain somewhere on the car.
If I were you I'd check the alternator and repace it if needs be. Then I'd check the current draw across each of the fuses in the car to
see if you do have another problem somewhere.
You may want to get someone who knows electrics to help you with this as you could damage the electrics in the car or blow the fuse in the meter if
not done correctly. Also depending on what runs off the fuse you will get different readings on each fuse so you will need to work out what you
expect to see before you test it.
Hope this helps
Mark.
quote:
Originally posted by welderman
im wondering if you dislodged a wire or somehting when you took the carbs off, the aleternator was working the other day when we checked it, so it could also be a loose wire.
You going to G&S with it.
ps dont forget to go to the bank tonight
Joe
quote:
Originally posted by Tommy P
quote:
Originally posted by welderman
im wondering if you dislodged a wire or somehting when you took the carbs off, the aleternator was working the other day when we checked it, so it could also be a loose wire.
You going to G&S with it.
ps dont forget to go to the bank tonight
Joe
Can't see any loose wires around that area. Not going to GS it's a specialists round the back of that camping store in Wigan.
Hope you've got cash tonight cos I don't take credit
just had alternator checked and its fine - so it's a bit more searching time then i might just give up and take the easy option and take the car
into the place thats just checked the alternator for me for free.
Several hours later.......
Put the alternator back on and did the multi-meter check and it's only showing 11.4.
By passed the cable that runs from the alternator to the battery and no difference.
Think I'll have to take it in to the experts on Monday or Tues day next week.
[Edited on 20/8/10 by Tommy P]
If the alternator checks out ok but you are only getting 11.4V at the battery then it has to be a dodgy earth. Try repeating your test with the
negative battery terminal connected directly to your chassis.
Just thought - have you earthed your engine properly? Run an earth strap from your block to the chassis
[Edited on 20-8-10 by RazMan]
DONT KNOW WHAT MY PROBLEM IS?
You got your ass kicked at snooker mate
Shame you didn't take my offer of a ton on it then
Mind you now you think of it I said a rennet for every frame lost !
Just ruled out the alternator, after fitting another (spare) one I had, with the same results.
My money's on the engine earth
Checked the engine earth, but I'll take another look.
Cheers
Does start to sound earth related. Check the voltage between the output from the alternator and the alternator body. Also try it with a jump lead direct from the alternator body to the battery; Whats the reading at the battery then.
I know what his problem was, but i can't tell you, he's too embarrased .
Go on. What are mates for if it's not to take the wee out of you.
adrian
It was a fuse.
someone had installed a 12v plug for charging etc with an in line fuse, in line from the alternator to somewhere on the dash (although the dash
charging light was still working), which was separate from all the other fuses (which I checked). This one was (but isn't now) not in an obvious
place and was overlooked. on replacement everything works fine.
So there you have it, what a tit I feel.
Just so you know, the fuse went because there was a loose screwdriver in the small box where the 12v power plug was and I am assuming that this came
into contact with the plug and shorted across, thereby blowing the fuse.
Anyway, thanks for all the help and advice, both practical and theoretical to all those who contributed.
Let this be a lesson to you all (it has been for me) and don't leave a loose screwdriver or any other objects loose near a 12v plug, when your
thrashing the pants off your car.
Yours humbly and embarrassingly and apologetically.
Tommy P 
Happy now Joe
I nearly sugested that... but it seemed too obvious.
adrian
"Is a nice now - yes, a thank you"
