Hi guys, Im new to this forum and new to Blade cars so please don't shoot me down in flames for posting in the wrong subect or something.

Right. picked up an o4 built MK indy-blade on the weekend and whilst driving home me and my GF needed to use the lights as it was getting dark. I noticed straight away that once the lights were turned on that they were no-where near as bright as they should be.

As expected they weren't and the car broke down very inconieniently on a busy stretch of the A75 near Carlisle. we stayed the night in a b&b and called our a recovery service.

The recovery guy and I didn't know much about MB engines but a nice chap in the car park did and he was convinced that the rectifier was the fault.

The mechanic put his voltmeter on the battery terminals once the car was running and it showed that the batter was getting a small charge.

Anyways, got the car home and took of the rectifier and noticed that the RR was from a CBR500 according to the graffitti from the breakers on it.

Also there did look to be heat damage and moulten metal shards poking thru the rubber casing.

My questions are as follows:

1. Will any rectifier from a fireblade work with adequate cooling ?
2. IS it possible that a fault in the Stator/Generator could cause excessive voltage and melt the RR ?
3. Do the problems with the lights and eventually the engine dying sound like an RR failure ??

Also how do i get pictures up on this thread ??

TIA guys and all aswers will be appreciated

Cheers Alan
[img]http://C:UserscynthiaPictures[/img]

[Edited on 21/3/11 by tompat3463]

I believe this is a common fault, some early blade rectifiers can get very hot.

Andy Bates is the expert on everything blade ( abperformance ).

I believe that later model Rectifiers use more modern semiconductors, and so don't heat up, and do generate more power. So this thread might be worth a read. http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/104504-charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html

I installed one of these on my engine, and it doesn't get hot at all. Different engine to yours, but same principle.


To answer your questions:
1. Don't know, but later model RR do the same thing and work better.
2. Unlikely. The RR overheat on their own!
3. Yes.

Not sure on the rectifier, but start uploading pictures to your photo archive on here and then when you view the archive you will see the image link to the picture, copy that into the message area of the post and you should be able to post your picture. Keep them down to a reasonably small size and if I remember correct.

There is a post somewhere on how to just need ti find it myself.

Adrian

Yes a common problem.

I had this fault on MY CBR400RR (baby blade) Many parts in common with the fireblade.

The first thing I changed was the rectifier which help for a while.
The went again
Then check the stator. This was out putting some power but no ware correct.

Bought a new one from HERE

Then with another rectifier problem fixed.
Although I cheated a bit buy using some Suzuki rectifiers I had spare.

Rectifiers are weak on fireblades, no cooling fins etc but these are pretty standard devices in different packages across lots of bikes.

The rectifer is three phase, so from the engine casing 3 x yellow wires, they then go into a rectifier which then has a black earth wire and red to the battery.

Just look on ebay for a 12v rectifier from nearly any bike with decent cooling fins, I use one from a ducati of all things as well known for electrical issues but it only cost a couple of quid.

I believe CB250 are a common replacement, Honda CB 250 & 400 N Superdream Regulator / Rectifier on eBay (end time 27-Mar-11 12:35:38 BST)

If you do use a blade one then buy a 12v CPU cooling fan and bolt on top, on a blade the rectifier sits above the rear wheel on a tick bit of chassis so gets cold airflow and a heat sink, this is missing on a little car under the bonnet.

NB mine is up front where it gets cold air.

Also a big battery will kill a standard one as it will overload it, blades have tiny little batteries.

Regards Mark

hi. thanks for all the quick replies.

All you info has been very helpfull especially the write up on the triumph forum.

I've managed to get a hold of a later fireblade RR with fins and hopefully this will sort out my charging issues !!

Do the stator on 900 fireblades go very often or not ??



Battery is on charge tonight and I will fit new RR tomorrow and give it a run..

Will report back with any progress or problems.


Many thanks Alan

Pattern ones are shite, you need the one above, genuine one only. cb250/400n

tony

quote:

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Originally posted by tompat3463
hi. thanks for all the quick replies.

All you info has been very helpfull especially the write up on the triumph forum.

I've managed to get a hold of a later fireblade RR with fins and hopefully this will sort out my charging issues !!

Do the stator on 900 fireblades go very often or not ??



Battery is on charge tonight and I will fit new RR tomorrow and give it a run..

Will report back with any progress or problems.


Many thanks Alan

---

I've burnt out a car one (lucus) just by having too many spotlights and then accidently leaving the rear window element on for 2 hrs. Got so hot the solder melted it was black charred a mess in there!

quote:

---

Originally posted by ReMan

quote:

---

Originally posted by tompat3463
hi. thanks for all the quick replies.

All you info has been very helpfull especially the write up on the triumph forum.

I've managed to get a hold of a later fireblade RR with fins and hopefully this will sort out my charging issues !!

Do the stator on 900 fireblades go very often or not ??



Battery is on charge tonight and I will fit new RR tomorrow and give it a run..

Will report back with any progress or problems.


Many thanks Alan

---

never heard of a stator (alternator) fail
connectors do though if there are any in your installation

---

Do R1' suffer with the same rec/reg failure as the blade?

I've heard of the odd failure but not as many as blades. I would rather than a reg fail than the stator as its a LOT easier to change. Also the stature is fairly specific to model where the reg isn't.

ok guys. battery was charged by the time i got home from work. hooked the new RR up and connected batt and the car started under its own steam which is good.

Done a few multimeter reading.

Results as follows.

1. Ignition off - 12.5V over BATT terminals.
2. Idle Speed - 13.4V over BATT terminals.
3. Idle Speed W/lights on - 12.5v and dipping to 12v sometimes

Does this sound normal to any of you ?

Also. I know u can test the 3 wires from the stator with a multimeter but what setting on MM should I use and what should I be looking for ??

Presuming that the stator is OK what else could cause the charge to dip badly when the lights are on ??

Bad connections ? Earths ? Melted wires ? and where ??

TIA Alan

Looks fine to me, if you rev it does the voltage go up to 13.5v, if so jobs a goodun.

To check the stator unplug everything, engine off and you should see the same resistance between any two of the yellow wires going into the engine, also check that they the wires do not go to earth.

Its more usual for a rectifier to blow before the stator although blades are a little weak in this respect.

Points to note:

* Always start from a good battery of the correct size
* Do not jump start unless you disconnect the rectifier (it will try and charge the car battery and cannot take the load so will burn out)
* Blades flood really easily, if it does not start quickly consider taking out the plugs, heating with a blow torch and putting back while hot, not required on a daily driver.


Blade engine rock btw

ok thanks mate will have a look for 13.5 volts when i next look at car in lights.

Picked the car up on sunday and I was immediately impressed with the Blade power and gear set up. they really are amazing.

Thanks Again Alan

hi there. ran the car for an hour tonight. when rev'd to around 5000rpm the voltage is reading around 13.5 but again with full beam on the voltage drops to battery voltage (round about 12.7 volts)

Does this sound normal ?? how much extra voltage does the battery need to receive to obtain a good charge for the next run ? I.e how much extra voltage over the top of the battery voltage will give a good charge ??

Also, im not very good with my new Multimeter and cannot figure out how to check resistance can anybody advise ??

TIA Alan

Sounds bob on to me