I want to power up my racetechnology dash 2 outside of the car to update its firmware and have a general play around with it. It looks like it just
needs 12v and a ground, but I don't want to feed it too many amps
Here is the pdf sheet for it
http://www.race-technology.com/upload/DASH2_datasheet.pdf
Nothing states a maximum to be sent to it, but it does give an amperage usage.
Any ideas on how I should go about it, if at all?
No Problem
Just power it up Via 12volt battery but I would put a 1 amp fuse inline for protection
amps is pulled depending on the wattage rating
Cannot see it being high wattage as it is only a display
even if it is rated at 60 watts it will still only pull 0.5 amp
As above, when you think of the amps your car battery CAN produce.... Your display will just draw what it needs.
Ohms law mate, watts divided by volts = amps, so 60 watts = 5amps. Cheers Ray
[Edited on 6-6-11 by Chippy]
Thanks guys
Will any ground do?
Sorry yes he is right Brain freeze
quote:
Originally posted by Chippy
Ohms law mate, watts divided by volts = amps, so 60 watts = 5amps. Cheers Ray
[Edited on 6-6-11 by Chippy]
Just wire it up straight to battery with a 5 or 7,5A fuse to be sure, 12V to positive, ground to negative. Can't really happen anything though. The new dash should be tested in the factory. So as long as you don't hook up any other wiring (and short something out) or mess around with whats there... it should be fine.
This one isn't brand new and needs the new firmware before the newer software is used to upload the various settings to
Well then still the same advice. Fit a fuse to protect the battery more then anything else (you never want to blow up a battery!). Worst thing that could happen then is the dash mallfunctioning due to some internal short. And if that would happen it was bogus to start with.
quote:
Originally posted by JF
Well then still the same advice. Fit a fuse to protect the battery more then anything else (you never want to blow up a battery!). Worst thing that could happen then is the dash mallfunctioning due to some internal short. And if that would happen it was bogus to start with.
Darn, yeah I have to agree with you Ian. Must admit I hadn't looked at the sheet. I assumed the 60W was from the sheet. Altough it seemed a bit
high to me. My bad.
And yes when using small gauge wire it should melt away before the battery goes (not that you would want that to happen either...). But since seeing a
truck battery blow at work when a coworker shorted a spanner between the terminals I became a bit more carefull about it...
Race Technology state 1 amp fuse as a maximum for the DASH2
quote:
Originally posted by JF
... But since seeing a truck battery blow at work when a coworker shorted a spanner between the terminals I became a bit more carefull about it...
yeah well and pretty fireworks.... but that smell... damn... Luckely he only got some minor burns to his hand when he tried to grab the spanner (smart
move....) but no further personal injuries. And due to the truck being bare and waiting to be fitted with a loader crane there only was some damage to
the airlines, electrical harness and chassis paint.
And yes you're right... A spanner will melt away just like a fuse. But the battery gave way sooner. The strangely deformed spanner still hangs on
our workshop wall as a reminder.
I don't mind working with electronics, even have fun doing so... but I became quite carefull around life unfused terminals and wires.
Anyhow... back onto topic... just put a 1A fuse in there and you're good to go.
[Edited on 7/6/11 by JF]