drilled trigger wheels
blakep82 - 1/8/11 at 06:29 PM
got the usual toothed trigger wheel, having real issues fitting it correctly, i've got it bolted through the wheel through the pulley, and into
the tapped holes in the timing belt pully (the crank pulley is normally bolted to the belt pulley anyway)
for some reason i can't get it centered, and the wheel keeps hitting my sensor. broke it twice already.
wondering if a trigger wheel like this might be easier and more reliable to set up?
except the holes are cut into a seperate disc which is a bigger diameter, and the sensor points at the back of the disc
what diameter would the holes need to be to allow the sensor to pick it up properly?
is it essential that the holes in the wheel are the same width as the solid metal between the holes?
what sort of thickness steel plate should it be?
I'm thinking either circular holes or slots cut into it?
anyone done anything similar?
imagine something like this viewed from the top, with more holes
Description
[Edited on 1/8/11 by blakep82]
omega 24 v6 - 1/8/11 at 09:38 PM
Whats thye wheel a 36-1 or a 60-2?? if a 60-2 then why nor use the std x20xev one on the crank and the std sensor??
blakep82 - 1/8/11 at 10:00 PM
its 36-1, which is annoying. it would be good if there was a way of using the vauxhalls own one, but i can't find a way.
its for megajolt. even considered buying another system (MBE i think?) that can use the vauxhall trigger, but thats over 400 quid...
omega 24 v6 - 1/8/11 at 10:12 PM
Pity that.
I'd take of the bottom pulley and get a disc machined to fit to the existing pulley hole ( which are not equi spaeced) (well not on my XE due to
the tdc mark needing to be in the correct place).
True up the pulley in a lathe and turn a true dia onto your new disc. The an indexing chuck and drill the holes as required.
Try a college local to you it'd be a good project for a class to try out.
blakep82 - 1/8/11 at 10:55 PM
quote:
Originally posted by omega 24 v6
I'd take of the bottom pulley and get a disc machined to fit to the existing pulley hole ( which are not equi spaeced) (well not on my XE due to
the tdc mark needing to be in the correct place).
thats what i thought the problem might have been!
do you mean pulley holeS? on this pulley there's 4, and it hought they might have all been offset by say 2mm or so? does that sound right?
the pulley is stuck fast on crank i couldn't measure accurately to see how far out. so i ground out the holes in my trigger wheel (which are
perfectly centred/equi-spaced) to locate the trigger which sikaflex, and once it was right, then put the 4 bolts in, but i still couldn't get
that right. so hence the change in plan, as then being perfectly centred would be ideal, but not entirely necessary
omega 24 v6 - 2/8/11 at 11:41 AM
Yes sorry the pulley HOLES plural my mistake. On the c20xe there are IIRC 6 holes but not equi spaced. As for getting the pulley of on the xev
I'm not sure how different it is. It should just slide off ( barring rust adhesion) leaving the crankshaft timing belt pully in place with the
centre bolt.
nige - 2/8/11 at 11:51 AM
no wishing to hijack this thread
but have you * omega * used a megajolt on an xe
ned says he used the internal trigger wheel , is this suitable for me
blakep82 - 2/8/11 at 11:52 AM
yeah, i've tried gently tapping it side to side, with the 4 bolts removed, leaving the centre on. but it won't move and i don't want to
force it too had in case i bend/break something. think it rust. its not pressed on or any kind of close fit is it?
I wondered if the 4 bolts were shifted 2mm to one side so it would only go on 1 way, but i can't tell
omega 24 v6 - 2/8/11 at 11:56 AM
Internal trigger is only of use for megasquirt.
Megajolt needs a 30-1 wheel ( internal one is 60-2).
Blake if the pulley has a tdc mark on it then there must be only 1 way of fitting it so yes I'd say the bolt hole pattern will reflect this.
[Edited on 2/8/11 by omega 24 v6]
