Just started putting together my wiring and started at the fusebox but I am not happy that the female push on blade type connectors are held securely on the male part on the fusebox. Is there a way to fix them in place?

ta,
Rich.

Squash them slightly ??? Mine fitted on ok. You sure you got the correct size ones for it?

a blob of glue from a hot glue gun works wonders (I also use this when building PC's)
as long as it's not near anywhere too hot of course!

Do away with the balde type connectors as much as possible and put in solder joints covered in heatshrink will last far better and longer and cause less problems in the future.

Size is right, 6.3mm. Will try squashing them and the glue option, I think I may also change to the type of fusebox whereby the wires go into the bottom and not just onto blade connectors.

Rich.

Mad4x4,
I'd have to disagree to a large extent with using soldered joints instead of crimped joints because when soldered joints can be more susceptible to fatigue and breakage where vibration and heat cycling is taking place. There have been many studies over the years on this subject and I don't think it is any accident that crimping is far more prevalent in the automotive electronics industry. Crimping is also much faster if you have a decent crimp tool.

I would like to stress the last point, "good crimp tool," as there are a wide variety of tools out there. What you want is one with a ratchet to ensure consistent crimp pressure, and a wide crimp head which crimps the conductor and insulator in a single crush. Many people give crimping a bad reputation because they use a cheap and nasty crimp tool and only crimp the conductor and not the insulation. This will then suffer the same sort of fatigue breakage as a solder joint.

In summary, unless you are a highly competent solderer (I'm qualified to military standards by the way) then crimping with a good crimp tool will be more consistent and considerably easier and faster.

Cheers,
Craig.

quote:

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Originally posted by Ben_Copeland
Squash them slightly

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For about a tenner you can get the correct ratchet tool for crimping the connectors, it even stamps the correct rating code into the plastic sleeve to show you have done it right. It gives the correct pressure for the ally internal and for the plastic retaining bit

Yes Mark is right. i think I spent about £55 on a 500 piece kit of crimps which came with a good crimp tool. Here is a link to the website. It is the DV5 tool shown here that I use. The tool on its own costs about £17 inc vat

David, no disrespect intended but do yourself a favour and get a proper crimp tool. Crimps will simply not be reliable unless crimped correctly.

Cheers,
Craig.

[Edited on 27/8/2004 by craig1410]

quote:

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Originally posted by craig1410
David, no disrespect intended but do yourself a favour and get a proper crimp tool. Crimps will simply not be reliable unless crimped correctly.

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David,
My apologies, I see what you were getting at now...

Just ignore me!

Cheers,
Craig.

I bought a very similair ratchet crimping tool from B&Q a whuile back - I think it was £19 but came with about 500 assorted connectors

are you talking aout the actual push on to the spade, or the crimped bit that the wire goes in?

The crimp is always nicer with the more expensive rachet type tool, but costs about 10x the price of the simpler one.

faston terminals are used a lot in electricals and tend not to come off. the extra squash if you want, might help.

Id avoid using glue unless you are sure you have a tight connection to 'plough' it away from the contact surfaces, otherwise its going to insulate. Then if its tight, do you need the glue......


atb

steve

Hi Steve,

Was talking about the push on bit, not the crimp. Have bought a ratchet type tool for the crimps which seems great.

I think I am going to change the fusebox for one that the wire go into underneath and it has a bus-bar to connect where required.

Rich.