Hi,

I'm being a muppet and not sure if i've done this right.

Battery positive to positive on starter motor, then from same positive on starter to alternator.

Have i missed one from battery to alternator? does it need it?

Obviously i've done the earths

I'm checking as every so often the battery dies and engine won't turn over.
I've not had the beast on the move (only idle or short up and down driveway due to fuelling issues)

Hoping it's just cause i'm not driving and hence alternator not charging?

Some 3 connector alternators need both the big terminals connected to a main +12 connection this can be either on the batter or the main +12v battery connection on the starter or as on some tin tops to the main fuse box feed (if the feed has a sufficiently highly rated cable).

However first step is check the charging voltage it should be in the range 13.4v to 14.9v at 1500 to 2500 rpm test with tested with the head lights off then switched on.

It could also be battery problem or a current leakage problem but check the charging voltage first.

[Edited on 17/4/12 by britishtrident]


I should add as a rule of thumb it takes 20 minutes running for the alternator to amke up the energy used in a single cold start,

[Edited on 17/4/12 by britishtrident]

thought i'd try that when i can borrow a tester

I think BT should have his charge checking routine as his signature! All good I'll hasten to add.

Yeah I've got it on speed dial.

Over the years it is amazing how much money I have seen people waste buying batteries that weren't needed when a 1 minute check with a cheap multimeter would give a proper diagnosis.

Those LED alternator testers that you can buy from Maplin or eBay for about £8 are pretty useful for the non-electrically minded. http://www.maplin.co.uk/battery-and-alternator-checker-10162

Thanks. I think I have a little tester thing like that that shows percentage of charge and has a cranking light on it too. Will google the instructions