Hi GUys,
Quick question - on my JC Wide Body Sports Locust where should the horn be?
On pressing the left stalk where the horn logo is nothing happens.
It has a Mountney steering wheel fitted with central push button - nothing happens pushing this either.
I have had a good look around the engine bay and inside the nose cone - no sign of a horn or mounting brackets or wiring.
On the assumption the horn has been removed I bought a pair of snail airhorns which I am going to fit and hope to wire up to the steering wheel
central button.
Can anyone offer any tips on doing this to make it a smooth enjoyable job?
Thanks,
Mark.
the horn would be wherever the builder put it.
a horn is a current requirement for IVA testing, but wasn't required for SVA before that, so possibly was never fitted, but the logos came with
the steering wheel and stalks, and weren't removed.
so yeah, chances are it never had one
quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
the horn would be wherever the builder put it.
a horn is a current requirement for IVA testing, but wasn't required for SVA before that, so possibly was never fitted, but the logos came with the steering wheel and stalks, and weren't removed.
so yeah, chances are it never had one
well, this is what i can't really work out, there was no requirement for a horn in SVA, as for then the MOT, maybe its a case of if it has one,
it had to work.
MOT rules have changed now, but last year (before the new rules came out) you had to have reversing lights for IVA, but they didn't have to work
for MOT.
I had a BMW, reversing lights never worked, passed many MOTs like that too.
so for SVA/IVA and MOT, they never really quite matched up. maybe its different now with the new mot rules.
Hi,
Whichever switch you use to sound the horn, use it to switch a relay and run the horn from that.
Len.
quote:
Originally posted by avagolen
Hi,
Whichever switch you use to sound the horn, use it to switch a relay and run the horn from that.
Len.
But, as said above, you would be better to use a relay to actually drive the horns. No matter how thick the wiring is, the heavy current drawn by the horns could easily burn out the horn switch.
The horn in the automotive world is a bit of an odd ball as they are commonly wired in two different ways depending on make.
they are often wired using relays. They can be earthed switched or live switched.
For earth switching you need a two terminal horn. using a relay take a live fused supply to pin 30 on a 4 pin relay and connect pin 87 to one terminal
on the horn, connect the other terminal on the horn to pin 85, pin 86 connects to your horn switch (usually the wire to the centre horn push button)
when the button is pushed it earth's to the steering column, activating the relay and the horn works.....(less wiring this way)
For live switching, take a live supply to your horn switch (stalk type usually...not always) and run it to pin 85 on your relay pin 86 to earth. take
another live (you can use the same supply as pin 85 but this is not usual as it means the switch is taking all the current of the horn and defeats the
object of the relay) and connect to pin 30 of the relay (fused preferably) connect pin 87 to the horn contact (there needs to be only one terminal on
this style of operation) the horn earth's through its body...but if you have a two terminal horn connect the second terminal to earth.
Thanks for the replies.
I got a relay, connectors and wiring expecting to be wiring up the centre horn push on the wheel but that idea was abandoned due to the wheel not
being designed to be wired up with a horn push.
I agree about the current and the horn push switch - but surely as its original Ford equipment the design should take into account the current going
through the switch.
For now I'm happy as I have a horn without having to install a switch...