Ok, I really wanted someone to make me a loom, but so far 3 people have said yeah no problem, then gone pretty quiet
I'm sure I'm going to make a mess of it, but needs must

So, I've come up with what I think is a clever idea, starting by making the rear lights loom, I'm going to use a trailer plug on the rear bulk head (remember my car isn't a 7) rather than passing cables and plugs through a tiny hole in the bulk head. This also has the benefit of being able to plug the lights into my car with a tow ball and see it all working.
I'll be doing the same with the front lights and engine looms too, but on 2 seperate plugs

So, tail lights, 1 cable runs to the back, how do I split it for each light?
Cut solder and heat shrink?
One wire into the plug for one side, then another wire also in the same terminal?
Choc block terminals (noooo)

How have you guys done yours?

I bought some cheap waterproof connectors from china... they were pony and I've got LOADS of 4 way and 2 way left, so I changed them for econoseal bought from Here

They're much better

Good idea, there is a loom out there made just like that front rear and middle parts.

To split the wiring to each side at the back, I would just take two cables from the plug/socket
Connector, wouldnt splice the cables, one for each side.

Premier Loom... best £100 I spent on the car!

I have /had made at least two looms for my car, and if i was to do it again, would go down the route of buying one in

however. my current loom consits mainly of trailer wire 13 seperate wires(i think) and this was used for the majority of the loom for lights etc,

As for connectors, ive used in dry hidden places electricval block connectors, and on the dash and nose cone for indicators used multi plugs, bought from a local motor factors

steve

Your over thinking it mate.

Get some roles of wire, You could do the lot in one colour but that will make it harder to fault find.

Run two down the back for lights.

Run one for reverse.

Run one for brake.

Run one for Fog.

Two for indicators.

ie same as 7 core trailer wire, you could just copy the standard colour.

Earths will be to your chassis / frame.

Just tape the lot to the chassis with masking tape as its easy to cut and move. Leave around 30cm extra to what you think you will need to allow you room for manoeuvre.

You want another wire for the fuel pump.

Two more for a fuel gauge sender.

I would run a couple of spares front to back.

same sort of thing on the front. Keep the engine loom separate.

Add your switches and power from fuse boxes.

Connect one circuit at a time and test as you go so if you get a funny result like the fog light flashing you know its down to the last circuit you did.

When finished cover the lot, I like a spiral wrap and a cloth loom tape over the top.

I don't understand why any one would buy a generic loom for a custom vehicle ??

Hi
This is what we did for just the wiring runs front & back
all wires in split flex plastic conduit fixed to chassis
with P clips,do not use tape to fix also 3 Brass earth posts to chassis one front
one dash & one rear.
all connect to switches/relays/instruments/ fuse board/etc.


Wire runs


tank

good luck

René

I did much the same as big_wasa, except that I spent some time planning what I wanted to do. I used to commute into London, so I had plenty of time to sketch out my ideas!

The only thing I'd recommend is the use of split conduit rather than spiral wrap; if you want to run extra wires later on then it's far easier to undo a few pieces of tape and shove the new wires into the conduit, then use a few turns of tape to hold the conduit closed again. Spiral wrap is a total PITA if you want to make changes.

quote:

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Originally posted by steve m
I have /had made at least two looms for my car, and if i was to do it again, would go down the route of buying one in

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Aren't the side light's/headlights better off split into two, passenger side on one fuse, drivers side on another fuse?
As a lot of production cars are.

Then if you blow a fuse you always have a light left working on one side or the other.

If both your rear lights are on one fuse you could be driving along in the dark unaware you've got no rear lights showing at all.

If you do use trailer wiring for the rear lights, is it still an IVA requirement that it is encased in wrap or conduit, or could you p clip the wire to the chassis?

I had a bought loom with my car. To be honest I have made so many changes to mine I may have well have made my own. The kit only recommended a flasher relay as the only relay. I have altered it to have 5 relays in the system. I have put in place safety items that the original bought loom did not include. i.e water temp warning light, oil temp warning light and a impact fuel pump cut off switch. The side indicators are in a different position.

I'd totally recomend multi adapters for connecting the dash items. Spilt conduit over spiral wrap. Lots of black cable ties for securing to the chassis. Lots of different colours for ease of identification. A fuse box with plenty of space for changes later. I have made lots of changes as I went along.

Thanks for the suggestions!
If a plug terminal can take 2 wires easy enough, then that appears to be the way. I would take 2 wires out the trailer plug, but then I've got number plate lights to take from there too, so id still have to split it somewhere

Good point on no lights showing though. I'll Get basic cable bundles together without any connections finished, then a guy I know who lives locally, not seen him in about 15 years, but he's built a few customs, he's going to give me a hand, see how he does it. Headlights will definitely be on seperate fuses though. Doesnt stop 1 switch failing, but never mind

As for buying a loom from premier or anyone else, I'd have loved to, but it would have needed so much rework, its totally not worth it. The proportions are all wrong

Description

I will be putting the cables in split conduit, and p clipping it to the chassis, but I dont want more holes in it, so i'll have a big p clip round the chassis and a small one round the pipe.

quote:

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Originally posted by blakep82
I will be putting the cables in split conduit, and p clipping it to the chassis, but I dont want more holes in it, so i'll have a big p clip round the chassis and a small one round the pipe.

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When I made mine I did it off the car using the build board.

Just bunged some nails in for the rough outline of where I wanted the wires to go then started where the bulkhead would be and tied off a clump of wires pulled out of a scrap discovery, but any long car will do with 'old school wiring.

Then allowed 50% more than I needed in any run! this allowed me to tape it up, use loom tape with no adhesive off the car so you can work at bench height.

So to the rear, 2 for indicators, 1 for brake, one for side lights, 1 for fog light, 1 for reverse light, 1 for fuel pump, 1 for fuel level sender.

Going forward, 2 for indicators, 1 for side lights, 1 for low beam, 1 for high beam.

These then all use local earths and are extended to each side at the rear. And front.

At the bulkhead end they go to switch gear etc then back to a fuse box which carries the battery live and switched live for the ignition.

Once you get your head around it then it's easy enough, just leave lots of spare.

Regards Mark



The engine loom is completely separate,

quote:

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Originally posted by CosKev3
Aren't the side light's/headlights better off split into two, passenger side on one fuse, drivers side on another fuse?
As a lot of production cars are.

Then if you blow a fuse you always have a light left working on one side or the other.

If both your rear lights are on one fuse you could be driving along in the dark unaware you've got no rear lights showing at all.

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