Been busy tuning my Chevy V8 EFI - starting and stopping regularly when all of a sudden the last time I tried to start it the starter motor started
running without engaging and the only way to stop it was to cut the battery supply. I suspect it's something to do with the solenoid that's
somehow stuck on switching on the motor but not activating the engagement mechanism. Won't switch off via the ignition switch but only via the
battery cut-off switch.
Any thoughts on this - I will pull the starter later this week to inspect.
I that what Formula1 use in the drs zone
sounds like an over heated solenoid, hitting it a controlled fashion may be your friend
How is your battery voltage?
If you've been starting and stopping a lot and the voltage is down this can cause arcing in the solenoid contacts. The solenoid is not pulled in
quickly enough and the currents are increasing essentially welding the contacts together.
A couple of sharp taps with the hammer might free it as mentioned.
This assumes that the small switching wire is not just shorted to +12V somewhere unintentionally operating the starter.
A quick check with a multi meter should help identify if it's welded together or unintentionally switched.
Keith.
If the starter disengages/stops after the main power is momentarily interrupted then it can be one of the solenoid coils partly burnt out
(there's effectively 2 coils in a solenoid, one to engage everything and a lighter one to hold it once engaged).
Ian
I would suggest disconnecting the cable from the ignition switch at the solenoid when the starter is playing up to eliminate a faulty ignition switch before condemning the solonoid
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
I would suggest disconnecting the cable from the ignition switch at the solenoid when the starter is playing up to eliminate a faulty ignition switch before condemning the solonoid
Thanks for all the feedback.
Took it out and it was working fine on the bench - Google search shows that it's a common problem with these starters - seems that the solenoids
used (Chinese copies of Nippon Denso ones I believe) don't like heat so maybe tuning idling whilst car was standing caused heat sink problems
because now that it's cool it's working fine when installed. Looking at heat shields or searching Toyota and Nissan spares suppliers for a
quality replacement.
Also looking at opening it up to see if anything obvious to be seen or if a bit of lubrication might help.