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Latching steering wheel switches
Greenie - 25/4/18 at 06:49 PM

Hi all.

Any ideas on how I can move my indicators from a toggle switch situated on the dash to latching switches which I would like to locate on my snap-off steering. Recommendations and pictures would help tremendously, want try and do this by purchasing the switches needed and manufacturing the necessary fittings etc.

big_wasa - 25/4/18 at 07:28 PM

If you want a more complete solution or just ideas have a look here http://blinkstop.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/category&path=59

B33fy - 25/4/18 at 07:48 PM

Separate latching switches will fail IVA and might raise eyebrows at the MOT because both left and right could end up being on at the same time. Signal dynamics also do a module that works with non latching switches. With variable times, they stay on depending on the length of the Initial press. You press the other button it cancels the other side. I have that fitted currently.

The blinkstop is also built in to the freewheel modules which is a nice wireless solution for the steering wheel mounted buttons. I have yet to fit mine, though will do when next upgrading the dash.

[Edited on 25/4/18 by B33fy]

peter030371 - 25/4/18 at 09:15 PM

My current car uses the Signal Dynamics box with momentary switches. My previous Striker had separate latching switches on the wheel wired to a conventional indicator circuit, never once failed the MOT in 18+ years of ownership.

I think I preferred the manual cancel of the old Striker to the auto-cancel of the Signal Dynamics. I find my self having to count the number of seconds I need to hold the button down to get the correct number of flashes I want

Tonesta - 25/4/18 at 09:38 PM

I’ve installed a blinkstop unit nice piece of kit and the support from them is great

Greenie - 26/4/18 at 06:00 AM

Hi Peter, have any pics of the set up on your old striker?

peter030371 - 26/4/18 at 07:54 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Greenie
Hi Peter, have any pics of the set up on your old striker?


I don't have many. This one shows the two buttons mounted on the wheel. They are then wired through the curly cable to an XLR mating pair on the dashboard so it can be unplugged then the wheel was removed.

Wheel mounted buttons
Wheel mounted buttons

I am not 100% sure what switches I used now (it was a long time ago when I did it!) but would have used something like this
http://uk.farnell.com/apem/8636a/switch-spdt-4a-30vdc/dp/1082338 with one of these caps http://uk.farnell.com/apem/u483/cap-green/dp/1082523?MER=sy-me-pd-mi-acce

For the connector I used something like this http://uk.farnell.com/pro-signal/psg01584/socket-xlr-chassis-4pole/dp/1280710 with one of these http://uk.farnell.com/pro-signal/ps000014/connector-xlr-mic-plug-4pos-cable/dp/2759020

The cable was an old phone cable I think. As it was only designed to take very low power I had a pair of small relays behind the dashboard to switch the indicator circuits on/off.

My new Striker wheel now looks like this (well since the picture was taken the wires are now strain relieved and sealed to IP6somthing)

Wheel2 front
Wheel2 front Wheel2 Rear
Wheel2 Rear

As well as the indicators I have added buttons for the horn, main beam and 4 to control the Dash2. These are all momentary switches and wired through a Go-Race electrical quick release http://go-race.co.uk/shop/4582749947/electrical-quick-release- steering-hub/9459124 with the cost of the wheel, QR hub, switches, custom cut carbon plate this steering wheel cost more than a set of Team Dynamics 13" rims The wiring is a lot more complex (you have to use 32 gauge wire on the connector and that is very difficult to work with!!) going through the column and I still have a curly wire but now its behind the dash....if I could have found a suitable slip ring I would have been happier but it all seems to work

Any more questions then just ask.

Greenie - 26/4/18 at 05:48 PM

Thanks Peter, this info has really given food for thought.