Always looking to save a couple of quid where I can...
Can I make one of these: https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/trailing-lead-remote-12v-lighter-style-power-socket-with-crocodile-clips
Simply by buying one of these - and attaching the crocodile clips I have lying about?
https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/black-lighter-power-socket-rubber-plug-iva-ok
The saving is that I will refit the 'IVA OK' one into my car once I get to that point.
My electrical knowledge is pretty much zero - but I'm somewhat surprised I don't need to put a fuse in-line or something?
I'll be running a tyre compressor off it...
Oh - and an additional point: I assume all batteries provide DC (how could they alternate?!) - but cars have alternators, so I assume car electrics
run off AC? Why don't I need something turning DC into AC to drive my cigar lighter/air compressor?
[Edited on 21/1/19 by jps]
Is this a joke post?
quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
Is this a joke post?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alternator_(automotive)
quote:
Originally posted by jps
Always looking to save a couple of quid where I can...
Can I make one of these: https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/trailing-lead-remote-12v-lighter-style-power-socket-with-crocodile-clips
Simply by buying one of these - and attaching the crocodile clips I have lying about? https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/black-lighter-power-socket-rubber-plug-iva-ok
The saving is that I will refit the 'IVA OK' one into my car once I get to that point.
My electrical knowledge is pretty much zero - but I'm somewhat surprised I don't need to put a fuse in-line or something?
I'll be running a tyre compressor off it...
Oh - and an additional point: I assume all batteries provide DC (how could they alternate?!) - but cars have alternators, so I assume car electrics run off AC? Why don't I need something turning DC into AC to drive my cigar lighter/air compressor?
[Edited on 21/1/19 by jps]
Thanks Peter
car battery terminals and wiring should be done in such a way as to be safe.
In line sockets that are fixed in the car like a 12v cigarette socket should be fused, often with a 20A inline fuse.
A temporary attachment of an ancillary device direct to the battery with crocodile clips can be done for the duration of requirement. As you can
imagine they are not a fixed or permanent installation.
battery - 12v+ red - inline fuse - SOCKET
battery - 12v- black - inline fuse - SOCKET
hth
H
JPS,
As a cautionary tale- both Jasper and Hicost had car fires that totally destroyed their beautiful cars.
Please don't skimp on this for the sake of 4 quid!
Look at the benefits of the proper cigarette lighter you've shown- you get a decent mount to screw it to the back of your dash and also a
dust/rain cover.
Cheers!
James
quote:
Originally posted by James
JPS,
As a cautionary tale- both Jasper and Hicost had car fires that totally destroyed their beautiful cars.
Please don't skimp on this for the sake of 4 quid!
Look at the benefits of the proper cigarette lighter you've shown- you get a decent mount to screw it to the back of your dash and also a dust/rain cover.
Cheers!
James
I use the rubber plug type 12v sockets as they keep the rain out in our open to all weather cars. Make sure you fit an in line fuse.
Fwiw 12v in a car is generally accepted to spike to 80v in worst cases. Most cheap stuff is rated to 30v, automotive grade stuff to 60iirc
Really this should be switch on ignition live, unless you plan to be able to run it when the car is switched off.
So it should go:
Battery + -> Fuse -> SPST Relay Terminal 1
SPST Relay Terminal 2 -> 12v Socket Live
12v Socket Neutral -> Battery/chassis ground
SPST Coil Terminal 1 -> Ignition live
SPST Coil Terminal 2 -> Battery/chassis ground
That'll ensure that if you accidentally leave something plugged in it doesn't drain the battery, and if you have an electrical fire from
something plugged into it switching the ignition off will kill it.
quote:
Originally posted by coyoteboy
Fwiw 12v in a car is generally accepted to spike to 80v in worst cases. Most cheap stuff is rated to 30v, automotive grade stuff to 60iirc
quote:
Originally posted by computid
Really this should be switch on ignition live, unless you plan to be able to run it when the car is switched off.
So it should go:
Battery + -> Fuse -> SPST Relay Terminal 1
SPST Relay Terminal 2 -> 12v Socket Live
12v Socket Neutral -> Battery/chassis ground
SPST Coil Terminal 1 -> Ignition live
SPST Coil Terminal 2 -> Battery/chassis ground
That'll ensure that if you accidentally leave something plugged in it doesn't drain the battery, and if you have an electrical fire from something plugged into it switching the ignition off will kill it.
buy a foot pump
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
buy a foot pump
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
buy a foot pump
Fair comment!
quote:
Originally posted by jps
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
buy a foot pump
Fair comment!
What happened to 'work smart not hard'?!
I have build wheels on my chassis - all of which have slow punctures. I'm getting a bit bored of pumping them up everytime I go to work on the car...
Or cut the fag lighter plug off the end of the 12V compressor, ad a fuse to the live, then croc clips direct onto the battery?
I have done that, only downside is popping the bonnet, but if you are doing all the checks it doesn't matter.
quote:
Originally posted by cliftyhanger
Or cut the fag lighter plug off the end of the 12V compressor, ad a fuse to the live, then croc clips direct onto the battery?
I have done that, only downside is popping the bonnet, but if you are doing all the checks it doesn't matter.
quote:move the tintop closer to the work.
Originally posted by jps
quote:
Originally posted by cliftyhanger
Or cut the fag lighter plug off the end of the 12V compressor, ad a fuse to the live, then croc clips direct onto the battery?
I have done that, only downside is popping the bonnet, but if you are doing all the checks it doesn't matter.
Battery is not in the car yet - so popping the bonnet is not a problem - but I do use the compressor on my tin-top, so don't want to hack it about.
As stated above, if you do use crocodile clips, only use for to duration of the need to attach the tyre pump.
DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR WITH THEM ATTACHED
Crocodile clips will present a bare metal surface for something to touch as you bounce along and if it is the earth clip that makes contact or worse
come adrift and hits a metal part of the car the full power of the battery will short through the cable which will probably melt and or spark a lot.
quote:
Originally posted by snapper
DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR WITH THEM ATTACHED
quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
move the tintop closer to the work.
quote:
Originally posted by jps
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
buy a foot pump
Fair comment!
What happened to 'work smart not hard'?!
I have build wheels on my chassis - all of which have slow punctures. I'm getting a bit bored of pumping them up everytime I go to work on the car...