This may be personal choice based, but, im after the best way to splice 1 wire into an existing length of wire...but mid length. It will be open to the elements due to the location of it



1- remove a section of insulation, add and solder the new wire then wrap in tape

2- cut the existing wire in the middle, cut back 5mm each end then slide over heat shrink for later use, before soldering the 3 wires together then heatshrink over the top

3 As above but use the half barrel crimps as they use in bike looms, then heat shrink

4 As number 2 but use those easy solder tubes that you heat, the solder melts and seals at each end

Any other ideas welcome exept the scotch lock things

N1

[Edited on 12/8/21 by number-1]

I have used no 4 many times. So far so good
Although with any crimp connectors, I always strip the wire to go completely through the connector.

If I am splicing or joining wires I have always used self amalgamating tape rather than simple insulating tape.

The sniffy response is that it is unwise to solder automotive wiring and that a good crimp is the only acceptable way to go. In real life a soldered joint is probably better than a bad crimp (cheap connectors and a pair of pliers). If exposed to the elements I would worry more about how to protect the joint than whether it will fail but the two are interrelated. Use a good adhesive heat shrink both to protect and to support the joint and the chances are that you will never have any issues.

If there's enough slack in the wire to be spliced into I cut that wire then strip a few mm of insulation off each side of the cut wire + the end of the wire being joined in. The crimp the 2 wires together and adhesive eatshrink over the crimp for some added mechanical + sealing properties.

I'm with "Theshed" and prefer to avoid soldered wire joints in automotive applications. Soldered joints don't like vibration (risk of cracking and failure). OEM wiring looms avoid solder joints for this reason.

I'm also with "myke pocock" and avoid insulating tape in favour of self alamgamating tape or better still loom tape (loom tape lets you back in for future mods & repairs).

These are the connectors the OP was referring to, they solder, grip and waterproof the joint.
LINK

quote:

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Originally posted by 40inches
These are the connectors the OP was referring to, they solder, grip and waterproof the joint.
LINK

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https://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/links/sections/407%20Splices.html

Cheers for the replies chaps. I have seen the barrel crimps used in bike looms and wondered why they didnt solder but as Theshed stated, the solders dont like vibration. Plus my soldering isnt the greatest so could be a safe route

quote:

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Originally posted by myke pocock
If I am splicing or joining wires I have always used self amalgamating tape rather than simple insulating tape.

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I'd go with option 4 every time.

After I graduated as an electronics engineer, my first job was with Lucas Automotive Electronics where I ended up working in a department designing engine test harness looms for early diesel common rail engines. These looms were built to aerospace standards with very expensive connectors and we always used those adhesive-lined heatshrink, pre-loaded solder connections. These were covered in additional layers of adhesive lined heatshrink sleeving to form the Y junctions and were encapsulated in braided sleeving as well. There should be no issues with vibration harming the solder joints when encapsulated properly because the solder is not being flexed or fatigued.

HTH

quote:

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Originally posted by 40inches
These are the connectors the OP was referring to, they solder, grip and waterproof the joint.
LINK

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