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SVC rear LED indicators
indykid - 3/4/05 at 02:22 PM

so i got me some svc rear indicators, at a premium as i was led to believe they would flash as if they were a real 21W bulb.

when i wired them up yesterday, they flash as if the bulb isnt there. with a bulb wired in parallel, it flashes fine.

so does anyone else have them, and have they had a similar experience? are they a duff batch? fyi something rattles inside

i can wire a bulb into the housing and just let it 'sit' in there, and i have some resistors kicking about, but they're 2K2s so probably a bit hefty. it all just seems a bit heath-robinson when led indicators were supposed to be clean and simple.

any clues anyone?
cheers
tom

tks - 3/4/05 at 03:13 PM

but 21 watts on 12volts..U=I*R
P=U*I

= 21/12 = 1,75Amps R= 12 / 1,75 = 6,85Ohms..

that resistor would do the same as the bulb...but offcourse i don't know if the bulb lights because that the cause in the calc.

think you are doing something wrong..

maybe you just have to wire 2 of the units together???

Tks

viatron - 3/4/05 at 03:17 PM

I bought the same setup from SVC and the threw in a pair of the correct resistor packs along with a wiring diagram. I would give them a call and get a pair.

Mac

omega 24 v6 - 3/4/05 at 04:13 PM

You can buy a flasher unit that is on a timer bassis instead of a load bassis. However it does not change and let you know if a bulb fails. It might not get through sva if the examiner realises youve got l.e.d.s. Its a problem in vehicle lighting that might have possible legal implications as you have no bulb failure telltales. On the bright side it does solve your problem out.

mookaloid - 3/4/05 at 04:34 PM

I had a similar problem. Alan at premier wiring can do resistor packs I think.

Mine passed SVA no problem

Cheers

Mark

clbarclay - 3/4/05 at 05:00 PM

Never tried it, but couldn't you just swap the bulbs for plain LEDs/resitrors.

If the SVC units have built in flasher then they probably don't whant using with a car loom for bulds that also has a flasher unit.

Simple flasher units can be made from a couple of transistors, some resitors, LEDs and maby a couple of capacitors (its been a while since i've seen the diagram so memories a little hazy).
The flasher would work on time not load and rather than work LEDs direct could be connecterd to relays.

indykid - 3/4/05 at 10:10 PM

will ring svc then, and if that turns up nothing cheap, i'll be to RS to get some resistors.

what power rating can i get away with? if i can go less than 0.33W, i can run a pair of 3R3 in series. if it needs to be more, it'll have to be a pair of 15R in parallel.

look on the RS site if you're lost. part no's 135-588 or 141-930, something along those lines.

someone must have a clue.
cheers
tom

[Edited on 3/4/05 by indykid]

ReMan - 3/4/05 at 11:29 PM

quote:
Originally posted by indykid
will ring svc then, and if that turns up nothing cheap, i'll be to RS to get some resistors.

what power rating can i get away with? if i can go less than 0.33W, i can run a pair of 3R3 in series. if it needs to be more, it'll have to be a pair of 15R in parallel.

look on the RS site if you're lost. part no's 135-588 or 141-930, something along those lines.

someone must have a clue.
cheers
tom

[Edited on 3/4/05 by indykid]

Just so happens I was testing the flasher unit off the Fireblade today, wanted to see if it would run up to 6 bulbs plus idiot lights without catching fire or slowing down the flash rate, ( the opposite of being underloaded, where they run too fast). It is only rated at 2*21W and I need to rig hazard lights, hoped to do it without a seperate hazard relay.
Anyway it passed the test AND STILL WORKS!... If I loaded below 21W it speeded up, but above 40W up to100W
there was no difference in speed or smoke
However I wouldnt think that ! ohm will make a difference. Also the resistor packs are just resistors in nice packs so if you can rig it yourself it will be cheaper.
It defeats the object rather, but you could even run hidden lamps rather than resistors, at the end of the day you are still going to generate 21W of heat!
Meaning you will need at least 21W resistors....= Biggish
I am not sure that you could run an electronic version that is not wattage dependant without having to wire it differently, so would not be a straight forward swap, might be wrong?
Also, not aware of any reqirement for any lamp failure indication for SVA other than brake fluid level.
Hope this helps.

chunkielad - 4/4/05 at 01:10 AM

My local bike shop uses a diode somehow but I am unsure how.

clbarclay - 4/4/05 at 01:07 PM

http://www.talkingelectronics.com/Projects/FlasherCircuits/Page83FlasherCircuitsP1.html

This page has a diagram for flashing LED using a 6v DC supply, which could be easily adapted for use as indicators.


Alternatively

http://www.nationaltbucketalliance.com/tech_info/electrical/led/led.asp

Shows how to make a flashing 3rd break light using LEDs

[Edited on 4/4/05 by clbarclay]

Steve @ sVc - 13/4/05 at 03:47 PM

Sorry about your problems - yes we have resistors for the LED lights if your flasher is load dependant (we also have Lucas type solid state, 3 pin flasher relays that are not load dependant).
Call me on 08 456 581 251 if you think we can help please.
Taken a while to reply to this - away at a show in Germany last week.
Regards
Steve @ sVc