As a temp fix I wired the fuel pump into the sidelights.
SVA tester was happy with this and agreed that it was a security feature.
Only problem was that all four sidelights flickered cos of the pump pulses.
Still passed OK
Help
I have re-installed my engine, filled it up with water and oil, charged the battery and connected all the wires back up.
It turns over and I get a spark out of the coils, but the fuel pump won't pump.
If I connect a battery direct to the pump, it works. If I connect a test lamp to the wires to the pump it lights up. If I join the wires to the
pump, nowt.
The relay must be closing to make the circuit, to light the lamp, but it isn't allowing enough current through to make the pump work? I thought
a relay was open or closed, not half on?
ZZR1100 engine and loom BTW.
My SVA is on Monday, so I'm thinking I might just connect the pump to a seperate switch? Any SVA objections to that. Could also be a second
security feature?
Cheers
Mike
quote:
Originally posted by Guinness
Help
I have re-installed my engine, filled it up with water and oil, charged the battery and connected all the wires back up.
It turns over and I get a spark out of the coils, but the fuel pump won't pump.
If I connect a battery direct to the pump, it works. If I connect a test lamp to the wires to the pump it lights up. If I join the wires to the pump, nowt.
The relay must be closing to make the circuit, to light the lamp, but it isn't allowing enough current through to make the pump work? I thought a relay was open or closed, not half on?
ZZR1100 engine and loom BTW.
My SVA is on Monday, so I'm thinking I might just connect the pump to a seperate switch? Any SVA objections to that. Could also be a second security feature?
Cheers
Mike
On the way to my SVA my immobilser kicked in and wouldn't turn off.
As a temp fix I wired the fuel pump into the sidelights.
SVA tester was happy with this and agreed that it was a security feature.
Only problem was that all four sidelights flickered cos of the pump pulses.
Still passed OK
no problem with separate switch,it is indeed another security device,just make sure the supply is fused.Would suggest you check your relay wiring.you need to check your neutral supply wire for continuity to the frame (earth)ideally less than one ohm
can't you just remove the relay, most people do and saves loads of hassle. I had the same problem and when I checked how much a new relay was
from Honda it was £50!!! sod that I thought and removed it from the circuit.
Rich.
Sorted
Thanks guys, for your prompt response.
Stevebubs, I tried both ways just to check, nope.
Snuggs, I'll keep that fix in mind for Monday.
West27, you win, checked the return feed back at the relay and found a bad earth with a dodgy spade in the connector block. Replaced it and it pumps
fuel.
Spark plugs back in and I think I'll wake the neighbours up with an early morning chorus before I go to work
Mike
well that kind of pleases me considering the problems ive been having with my engine tuning and to top it all 3k's of damage to my house sunday night when i took a direct lightning strike!
quote:
3k's of damage to my house sunday night when i took a direct lightning strike!
Check the earth connection. These will cause strange faults. Make sure ALL earths are on BARE metal at the chassis. You can paint over the connection
to keep it from rusting, or smear with grease.
Check the simple things first.
It's worth looking at the Haynes manual or similar for the donor's wiring. If you know where your chassis earths are on your donor then you
can make something similar for your car. I built a Minari which had Friday afternoon wiring (green one end and red the other!!)
After an hour with a pint of beer in one hand and a manual in the other I made my own earth circuit - all lights, indicators etc work well. Had to do
something similar with the GTM.....if in doubt then have another beer
regards
Steve