I feel kinda stupid, but for the last 2,000miles since I built my car and SVA'd it my alternator has never worked and I never realised.. Shows
how little load there is on these cars. I have only charged the battery once. I thought it was low due the car sitting unused.
Anyway I now know why after a quick look at the wiring diagrams. I left the charge warning light out which is in series with the alternator, Doh. So
I thought I'm not fussed about this light so I'll short the plug where the lights meant to be. started my car and great 14v+ at the
battery. Alternators working. Then I tried to to turn the car off at the ignition and the car kept running.
I then assumed that it must need some sort of resistance so fitted a lamp and the lamp stayed on all the time and the alternator didn't work.
Finally I started the car with a short in place and then swapped the short to a lamp while the car ran. The car worked as it should 14v at the battery
and the car turning off with the ignition and the light coming on briefly as the engine died.
What am I doing wrong should the lamp be an LED?
Cheers
Steve
The lamp needs to be in the ign side of the circuit and not a permanent supply. When the alternator is charging there is a 12 volt feed in this circuit which will be enough to keep the ign circuit going. Therefore you need it to be broken by the ign switch being turned off.
i believe the current through the bulb energises the windings, or somesuch technical mumbo jumbo, hence its essential. If your bulb breaks, the alt wont work but theres also then no warning bulb to tell you!
quote:
Originally posted by omega 24 v6
The lamp needs to be in the ign side of the circuit and not a permanent supply. When the alternator is charging there is a 12 volt feed in this circuit which will be enough to keep the ign circuit going. Therefore you need it to be broken by the ign switch being turned off.
You may have killed the alternator by running 12v straight into the field without the current limiting lamp.
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
You may have killed the alternator by running 12v straight into the field without the current limiting lamp.
quote:
You may have killed the alternator by running 12v straight into the field without the current limiting lamp.
The alternator 'feed' from the alternator is actually a switched earth according to both the sierra and escort wiring diagrams i have. You
need a switched live feed (originally black/yellow in the sierra/escort) to one side of the bulb, the other is connected to the warning light wire
from the alternator (blue on both sierra and escort).
Cheers,
David
[Edited on 4/3/06 by flak monkey]
Suspect you have the big terminals on the alternator wired through the ignition switch -- they should go straight to the battery or the battery side
of the main starter conections..
as others have said the ignition warning light goes to the switched side of the ignition switch.
[Edited on 4/3/06 by britishtrident]
[Edited on 4/3/06 by britishtrident]
It sounds to me like the dash light, although correctly connected (on the small terminal) is holding the field coils on.
The simple fix is to insert a diode in-line with the bulb and not worry about fiddling with lots of wiring.
Regards Mark
my understanding is this:
the alternator effectively has 2 sets of diodes in it - a big set connected to the battery terminal, and a little set which take over supplying the
field controller as soon as the engine is spinning.
Normally as soon as the little diodes are supplying the field controller the dash light goes out as this is no longer supplying this circuit.
When you put a short where the bulb should be, you now supply the whole "ignition switched" electrics (including the ignition system)
through the little diodes.
It sounds to me as though they have survived the experience & if you stick a bulb in circuit everything will be OK
cheers
Bob