Hi all....
got the keyless immobilser in the post today - and I may be being really stupid but I can't work out what the wiring diagram is on about!
I've scanned it in (below). There are lots of black wires from the control box with numbers printed on them which correspond to the numbers on
the wiring diagram - that's all OK. What I don't understand is why there are 2 of each wire for the important circuits (other than
redundancy but it seems a bit excessive) and I am reading it right that all the power to, say, the starter motor goes through the control box - guess
it must but perhaps that's why 2 wires each...
Any help would be appreciated!
Also I don't have any doors - should I put in a momentary switched earth switch which I can press to simulate opening the doors to keep the
control box happy!!??
And (!) do you guys reckon the unlabelled box above the battery and below the starter motor is the ECU?
Thanks
Chris
there are two of each wire as the idea is that those circuits will be routed through the immobiliser. As it shows on the diagram you connect the two
wires having cut the existing cable. For example:
At present it goes:
Power source-------fuel pump----ground
But with immobiliser:
Power source----immob-----fuel pump---ground.
Hope this helps.
If not post again or u2u me.
Rich
Hmm - thanks for that, but I'm obviously being a bit dumb still!
There are, for example, 2 wires marked 06 and 2 wires marked 07. I would guess this means that for example I would wire;
power - fuel pump - ground as
power - 2 x 06 - immobilser - 2 x 07 - fuel pump - ground
but why does it need 2 wires??
Chris
Yep! Sorry, didn't read your post properly the 1st time and didn't answer your question at all! Not sure about the double wiring, other than
redundancy like you say...still working on that one.
As far as the door switch is concerned, i had this worry with mine and was going to put an earth switch on dash or under seat to simulate door
opening. However, when you switch on the ignition the immob will sense the power feed and will then not re-arm itself.
The unlabelled object could be the coil/coil pack. Don't think it is the ECU. Alternativley, does the manual mention anything about voltage
sensing? This circuit is used on cars that have a delay on the coutesy light and stops the immob trying to arm itslef until all lights etc. have gone
off.
Ah - thanks for that... won't worry too much about the earth then. Perhaps the 2 wires are to take any large load?
There isn't much of a manual! The wiring diagram is pretty much it for installation instructions
Chris
The more wires there are the less chance of guessing the right one if you cut them!
My toad one has some redundant wires for power, ground etc.
I just wired the door switch to ground and it works fine.
if you have the door switch always wired to ground the immobiliser will always think a door is open and you will loose the auto re-arm feature. The rest of the system will still work fine but it can be useful to have auto re-arm. Like i said before, turning on the ignition will do the job.
Got it working!
All works fine - didn't test it actually starting the engine, but it clunks the starter solenoid (bit late a night for no exhaust running!)
Mine does need the 'door' switch wired to an earth, but that's no problem, also only using the fuel pump and starter circuits at the
moment - got a spare one - any ideas what to use it for? Could put the ECU on it - but I'm a bit wary of doing that - not sure why though -
don't have a separate coil feed (all in the ECU controlled loom)....
Thanks for the help
Chris
theres two wires on each circut to enable it to carry upto 30amps its easier to cut shred solder two thinner wires rather than one phat one. follow as
picture 2x06 to one side of fuel pump wire you have cut and 2x07 to the other.
dont connect the the door pin switch wire to anything.
if your going to immo the ignition circut make sure 03 still gets a ign feed when armed.
the two earths should be connected in different places more of a backup if one fails and not to battery.