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Ballast resistor ?
Fifer - 4/8/03 at 03:12 PM

Anyone give me a clue what this resistor is used for and what size would be required and where to get this.
I have a Luminition with non vac distributor.

Steve


Peteff - 4/8/03 at 04:28 PM

Runs the coil at 9v instead of 12v. Lumenition runs at 12v doesn't it?. You would overheat a ballasted coil if you ran it at 12v.

yours, Pete.


andyps - 4/8/03 at 04:31 PM

Ballast resistors are usually used to ensure there is some electrical power left for the spark plugs whilst the starter motor is in action.


splitrivet - 4/8/03 at 04:46 PM

quote:
Originally posted by andyps
Ballast resistors are usually used to ensure there is some electrical power left for the spark plugs whilst the starter motor is in action.

Nearly right its to reduce the current/voltage thru the coil after the car has been cranked.While the car is cranking the voltage drops so the ballast resistor lowers the current/voltage thru the coil so it can cope with the extra voltage/current afterwards.
Cheers,
Bob


Fifer - 5/8/03 at 06:22 AM

Thanks all so far.
But, do i need one, what size, where to get one etc.

Steve


David Jenkins - 5/8/03 at 07:27 AM

Nearly right, Mr splitrivet!

When the engine is running normally the coil needs 9 volts, with the excess 3-4 volts being lost in the ballast resistor.

When starting, the battery voltage may drop to 10 volts, so the ballast resistor is shorted out, putting the whole battery voltage (now 9 - 10 volts) on the coil. When you let go the key, the short is taken off the resistor and the coil gets 9 volts again.

Fifer - your best bet is to go to a scrapyard. Don't forget that you will need to make some arrangement for shorting the ballast resistor while cranking - either a Ford original keyswitch, or wire up a relay to do the job.

Mind you, saying that, I doubt whether you will ever find yourself trying to start your Locost on a sub-zero morning... will you? If not, you won't need to worry about bypassing the resistor.



David


ChrisW - 5/8/03 at 07:44 AM

I can probably find one in the garage if you're in need. u2u/email me!

Chris


Peteff - 5/8/03 at 08:43 AM

One is a long grey wire as used on the sierra and cortina and the other is a ceramic block used on transits, like a domestic fuse, but check your system as the lumenition I had which converted the points dizzy to a photoelectric system ran a 12v coil and was better that way.

yours, Pete.

[Edited on 5/8/03 by Peteff]


stephen_gusterson - 5/8/03 at 08:54 AM

All you 'nearly rights' are describing the same mechanisim using different words!

atb

steve


David Jenkins - 5/8/03 at 09:01 AM

Nearly right, Steve...

(sorry, couldn't help myself, I'll just beat myself senseless with this stick of wet celery...)



David


splitrivet - 5/8/03 at 09:21 AM

quote:
Originally posted by stephen_gusterson
All you 'nearly rights' are describing the same mechanisim using different words!

atb

steve

Well said Steve after reading your post again Andy I miss read it you said it in laymans terms,I was a bit more technical the other guy more so.(God Im turning into an anorak)
Steve if you want to do that shocker swap still, email me on fones4biz@aol.com
Cheers,
Bob

[Edited on 5/8/03 by splitrivet]


andyps - 5/8/03 at 10:27 AM

I said it in laymans terms because when it comes to electrical things that about summarises what I am


barrie sharp - 5/8/03 at 10:49 AM

how about buying a sports coil that runs at 12v all the time no need for a ballast resistor (Burton power DLB105 Lucas sport (gold) £24.26).
no need to explaine how it works then


splitrivet - 5/8/03 at 11:38 AM

That would be the simplest Barry no worries there, there have got to be loads of coils down the scrappy tho that would do the job all pocket size
Bob

[Edited on 5/8/03 by splitrivet]


Peteff - 5/8/03 at 05:49 PM

I think I said that earlier in various terms. The easiest way to take the 12v feed to the coil is to continue the wire from the ignition switch cranking feed to the solenoid on to the ignition module or coil. It will cut off when you release the key that way.

yours, Pete.

[Edited on 5/8/03 by Peteff]


SteveO - 18/8/03 at 10:17 AM

Hi,

I've been slowly wiring up using a loom bought from Mk, a 1.6 sierra distributor and Ignition module. I have problems figuring out how to wire the resistor pictured in your ignition module screwed on to ali by plastic bottle.
Can you let me know how its done. its got a black a black/red wire. secoundly where does the green wire from module go?

Thanks
Steve


JoelP - 18/8/03 at 12:38 PM

The green wire on mine goes to the coil on one side and then returns to become the tachometer wire to the dashboard.

Not a clue about the resistor though, i'm just leaving it all as it was and hoping for the best. If it doesnt work at least i'll have to learn about it all...


SteveO - 18/8/03 at 01:00 PM

Thanks Joelp,

I assume the resistor is the radio supression? not sure though. As it was part of my donor setup i thouhgt to keep it the same.
Here's another prob i'm having- the alternator is from a cvh, its got the main to the batter/starter cable and one blue another blue/white - my loom has only 2- the battery/starter and i'm not sure which of the two wires to connect it to...any help pls.


theconrodkid - 18/8/03 at 04:38 PM

steve,the blue goes to ign light ,blue/white is auto choke


SteveO - 19/8/03 at 08:25 AM

Thanks guys,

I've got to get this egine started by weekend.
hope all goes well, will keep you posted.

Steve


Peteff - 20/8/03 at 08:19 PM

Been away for a couple of days, I'll get my diagram out of the shed tomorrow and write it up for you.

yours, Pete.


Peteff - 21/8/03 at 11:56 AM

I sent you a U2U and I'll put it in here as well for you.

Brown = earth
Green = coil negative and rev counter(suppressor) in the rev counter feed.
Green/Black = cranking feed from solenoid
Green/Yellow+Black/Red=Distributor connector block
Black/Yellow= coil positive( black block on this one I assume to be ballast resist so I left it in)

hope that helps, Pete.


SteveO - 21/8/03 at 04:17 PM

Many Thanks