My Jeep has not had a towbar fitted for 12 years, and now the mounting threads in a chassis rail are rusted beyond use. I'm thinking of drilling it up and replacing it with an m12 thread. Anyone done this, or any dire warnings? I can't see an alternative tbh.
Just run a tap through it.
quote:
Originally posted by designer
Just run a tap through it.
Yeah m10. I got a bolt into it fine, but it wobbles even when fully through. The threads have rusted away, not just rusted up. In the process now of tapping it to m12.
Fair enough - I assumed the existing thread would be rust covered.
Can you get to both sides of the rail? If so, why not thread a longer bolt through and back it up with a nut?
quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
Yeah m10. I got a bolt into it fine, but it wobbles even when fully through. The threads have rusted away, not just rusted up. In the process now of tapping it to m12.
Depending on age it could be UNC 10mm bolt would be slack (very slack) in a 7/16 unc tapped hole.
quote:
Originally posted by llionellis
Depending on age it could be UNC 10mm bolt would be slack (very slack) in a 7/16 unc tapped hole.
Interestingly a search through forums suggests the engine and transmission bolts may be metric but a lot of the body bolts are UNC.
quote:
Originally posted by llionellis
Depending on age it could be UNC 10mm bolt would be slack (very slack) in a 7/16 unc tapped hole.
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
Would a plain (untapped) hole then be batter?
Am I not the only one, who thinks, "the holes are so rusty that the bolts pull through" and .................
If so the metal around, the said rusty threaded holes will be so rusty, that its wafer thin, the first tug on the towbar will rip the whole rear
end of the car ?
maybe, its just me then
another way to do it might be thread inserts / helicoils , but I don't think they are appropriate here.
quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
Would a plain (untapped) hole then be batter?
It'lll be fine in that plaice.
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
quote:
Originally posted by llionellis
Depending on age it could be UNC 10mm bolt would be slack (very slack) in a 7/16 unc tapped hole.
I hadn't considered this and it could be on the money. If the hole is now drilled then tapping to M12 may be the only resolution.
As mentioned a nut on the other side could increase security of the fixing. Would a plain (untapped) hole then be batter?
quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
Would a plain (untapped) hole then be batter?
It'lll be fine in that plaice.
Sorry for the slow reply guys, didn't see all these posts. I think you're right that it wasn't m10. Drilling it with a 10.5mm drill
didn't remove all traces of rust, which I think rules out m10. My googling showed that an m12x1.75 thread starts from 10.5mm hole. As an aside,
'what hole...' on google throws up some amazing predictions - sex education isn't what it used to be!
So it now has 5 m12 bolts done up tight (6th is obscured by the exhaust, I'll get my mate to do that at the next service), and it pulled a tonne
trailer fine.
Cheers for all the help.
Oh yeah, no access to get a nut behind.