hello all! my name is dave & i've been bobbing around this forum for around 2 weeks but only went through the verification process today to allow me to post, i'm based in coventry & a bit of a novice really! i have been fiddling with old cars of all type for years but i've decided to get myself a blacktop zetec & get it all setup for RWD to swap into my current car

i've only got a 1275 midget engine in my current car so it'll definately be a big jump in power when i fit the zetec!!!! also going to have to fit a type 9 box & probobly custom prop-may get away with a standard one-not sure untill the engine/box is fitted

i know this is a "locost" forum but i have to confess i am going to investing a brand new zetec, all the other parts will be 2nd-hand & refurbed my myself

so far i have managed to get some parts together such as a megajolt ignition setup with edis components-this is my current project to install & get up & running n my car to get rid of points & dizzy! plus i think it'll give me the benefit of having a working igintion setup to run the planned zetec

i have some kawasaki zzr1100 carbs which i have cleaned up & drilled the main jets to 1.7mm, bogg brother recommended this + other bits to get me up & running, i have NO clue what screws do what adjustment & which bits of tubing on the bike carbs are fuel feed/return/breather so need some advice on these-so far i have managed to strip them down to check the diaphrams in the tops & also got the bottom parts offf to check the floats were'nt sticking & as said above, i took the main jets out & drilled them
i plan to make my own manifold for these out of mild steel

other than buying a brand new engine i plan to fabricate alot of parts myself & or use good 2nd hand parts as basicly i have lost my job! but to keep my sanity whilst trying to get into employment again i'm going to plug on as best i can with my car project!
i'm a singleton with no kids so in some ways makes life a little easier

i have managed to get an rs2000 ally bellhousing & clutch fork before my job loss which was a bonus really/aslong as it fits with the blacktop zetec

i do have a few concerns cost wise being the water rail i need & also i'll need a rear bowl sump for my application due to the engine crossmemember i am using & tiny engine bay so if anyone can point me in the right direction of how to DIY these parts that would be fantastic

i can weld (just) i can paint (just) & i'm ok with most mechanical stuff, wiring just blummin baffles me!

i know a few questions i ask will have been asked before & i will be using the search, i have the time at the mo :O/ but if you guys can give me a parts list of bits i need to do this & any help advice i' be truely greatful

my plan is to take pics as i go, maybe/hopefully some vids too

i did see a vid on youtube of a chap i believe who posts on here with a yellow car that built a sort of frame to get an engine up & running on out of the car-i'd really love some advice on how to do that!!!!!

anyhow enough of my lengthy introduction & list of annoyingly/probobly repetitive questions

hope you guys can help cheers from dave

[Edited on 6/2/12 by verybudgetzetec]

Ask away any questions, they will get answered on here

I've got a 1800 blacktop in one of our cars.... I also spend most of my time in Coventry so if you need any advice. Happy to help where i can.

However i used original ford throttle body on a made up plenum, and used a raceline sump and water rail so didnt fabricate any of those bits however plenty on here have done.

[Edited on 6/2/12 by eddie99]

quote:

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i do have a few concerns cost wise being the water rail

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Dave Mac in Coventry is your man for the propshaft. Tell him what you are fitting to what, measure between output shaft and diff flange and he'll make a prop and balance it for you. (Good prices too)!

I work for Nuneaton College and we have a running Zetec engine rig, on original injection. I'll help in any way I can (pics, advice, etc).

these days locost seems to mean anything under 60k which is what a top of the line ultima or cobra will set you back. so i don't think you have anything to worry about

any pictures of the car and the current setup? we like to see everything on here.

I am in Holyhead road, I can help a bit aswell I needed.
As said Dave Mac in Northey road is your propshaft man in Coventry.

Steve.

thats awsome chaps, yeah anyone with a bit of experiance will definately be called for once i have the engine in my posession!!! which wont be long i dont think

as for the water rail, the zetec will be right up to the bulkhead bar (needs to be) so i think i'm going to have to get a racline or retro ford water rail, there is a water rail on ebay by a company called flakspeed, it utilises the OE ford thermostat housing Item number: 350467651082 i'm not sure if they are any good????? what do you guys think, its an odd design but i may have room that side of my engine

or if there is anY diy method, i have seen some people bolt a thermostat housing from a pinto on the back of the zetec cylinder head & use an inline thermostate somewhere along the pipe run?????? i've not seen an inline thermostat

as for the sump i'm not sure what route to take, if i could locate a sierra 1.8 cvh sump & oil pickup pipe i could modify these myself but i cant find one myself, local scrapyards have all but gone in coventry :O(

"my eventual plan once its all up & running is to drive to the nurburgring, have a few laps around & drive home-would be a great achivement for a home build i reckon!"
4re there any zetec engines that have to bowl of the sump at the flywheel end as standard?

basicly the cash to make this project happen is going to come from selling off all the car parts i have hoarded from previous cars i have owned, well...........untill i land my next job, if things are slow then i think i'll be venturing to collage to learn some relevant car building skills, tig welding & auto electrics would be superb!!!!

so far from reading on this site i have gathered this small parts list:
1 2ltr zetec blacktop engine
a zetec 1.8 flywheel
1 good type 9 gearbox with rs2000 bellhousing
a sierra dohc starter motor for direct fit
a rwd rear bowl sump-managed to locate a sierra 1.8cvh type with oil pickup but will need advice on how to modify it!!!!
a water rail due to a lack of space by my bulkhead bar!
bike carb intake manifold for zzr1100 carbs
megajolt & edis ignition setup including coil
ford focus exhaust manifold so i can make a super simple single dowpipe to meet up to my current exhaust-simplicity is king as they say!

if there is anything i have missed please advise................

[Edited on 6/2/12 by verybudgetzetec]

quote:

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Originally posted by whitestu

quote:

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i do have a few concerns cost wise being the water rail

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My water rail is some 32mm vacuum cleaner pipe off ebay for about a fiver and a couple of hose bends. Cost very little and works perfectly

Here it is installed

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Im in Cheylesmore so your welcome to pop round mine and have a look at how things are fitted. Try Whites scrap yard on the A45 towards the M1, ive had a few things from there now.

fantastic some people pretty local to me on my end of town, brilliant! that will defo be a help once i have the motor in my hands!


one thing that is bugging me is do i actualy have to use a radiator expansion tank with a blacktop zetec, i had a look at the raceline website & it "seems" you dont need a an expansion tank, no for my application this would also be a bonus due to a lack of space

i must say my car is'nt a locost kit, its an un-known to be honest & space in the engine bay is a bit small, i'll get some measurements, the zetec will be a squeeze but fun once fitted & working

if anyone could shed light on the needed/not need expansion tank situ that would be great!

You mentioned that you found wiring "confusing". It actually isn't really, and is kind of fun to learn, but to make it neat and tidy is VERY difficult. I have wired my car completely 4 times, and it isn't where I want it. I just don't know how, but I've done my best, and it works.

When you get to that part, I would highly recommend you try, and hire someone as a last resort if you want.

none of the zetec's were designed with RWD in mind so the sumps don't have the deep bowl at the rear you need, CVH sumps are getting more difficult to find. the Blacktop has its sump made in 2 halves, the upper half boltted to the block is cast alloy but then there is a lower half bolted to that made of steel so can be chopped about as much as you want.
here's a LINKY to a site on how to do the chop.

could i use a sierra cvh rwd sump on a blacktop? i can & fabricate in mild so not too phased about sump modding (famous last words)

also wiring, i just have one of those brains that does'nt retain anything, i vagueley remeber how a relay works, need to remind myself how to wire a basic switch, for instance a basic switch for an electric radiator fan-shicking really but on the flipside when i do have to throw myself into wiring as mentioned & i then enjoy it, if i have to leave a job to finish the next day i suffer brain drain i cant remeber how i have done the wiring previously

anything else such as welding, painting, fabrication i dont have a problome with-very strange fellow lol


also does anyone know who makes zetec inlet/intake manifold flanges???? i want to make my own bike carb manifold!

cheers all

honestly not too sure about CVH to Blacktop but i would guess they do go together but as stated earlier, trying to get a CVH sump is gonna cost ya but the standard blacktop sump comes free with the engine.
Also, with regards to manifold flanges etc, do a search on ebay, "zetec rwd" or "zetec conversion" will throw up quite a few.

[Edited on 8/2/12 by scotty g]

May i suggest DANST engineering for your inlet manifold. Got one from him when i fitted my zx7 carbs to my ZETEC. 1.7 main jets sounds very high tbh!! though if bog bros say so then cant really argue!! hope the conversion goes well!! are you running TPS or map for the MJ? if MAP then i have a pretty good base map for the 2.0 ZETEC

quote:

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Originally posted by verybudgetzetec

i did see a vid on youtube of a chap i believe who posts on here with a yellow car that built a sort of frame to get an engine up & running on out of the car-i'd really love some advice on how to do that!!!!!

[Edited on 6/2/12 by verybudgetzetec]

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quote:

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also does anyone know who makes zetec inlet/intake manifold flanges???? i want to make my own bike carb manifold!

---

cal, that would be superb if you have a megajolt map, my megajolt is the old v3 version, i'm not sure myself if this makes any differance or has compatabuility issues with the newer megajolt versions?

whitestu, thats a damn good idea there bud, almost like those "direct to head" throttle bodies, wonder if respacing my bike carbs can be a DIY JOBBY some investigation to be done, i really like that idea!!!

i managed to get a alternator setup for a blacktop zetec today for a half decent price although i'll be selling the alternator on as i'm going to try to get a smaller alternator than the lucas one but with the same two prongs on the top & one on the bottom (usually where the adjust bracket bolts) hope i make sence, its hard to put in text sometimes......

found a chap that does mild steel intake flanges for £11+a little postage cost so cant fuss to much about that, once i have got all the bits i need to start assembly/mocking up & as i make stuff i'll try to do pics & a thread on my zetec escapade!

i think i am going to make my own water rail/zetec thermostat relocation pipe, i think that describes what i'll end up making better

so i'm quite chuffed that things are moving forward, got the start of a few items i need rid of on ebay from old project cars etc etc on ebay so hopefully that will help balance the costs & also clear out stuff really i suppose i dont need really, sometimes you can keep to many things for a "rainy day"

quote:

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wonder if respacing my bike carbs can be a DIY JOBBY some investigation to be done, i really like that idea!!!

---

a little update guys, i have taken a chance & bought a 2.0 silvertop zetec engine from a mk2 mondeo,

obviously its a 2nd hand motor of unknown condition but i got it cheap as chips literally!!!

i plan to strip it to check it over but would like to get it running on a basic ignition & carbs to see what sort condition it is in currently

i dont know alot about these silvertop motors so if you goys could give me some pointers on them & what to check 1st,

i'll be giving it a damn good jetwash tomorow afternoon but it does'nt have any obvious oil leaks at present! so hopefully a good sign!!!!

obviously i'll bin the 2.0 flywheel for a 1.8 one

are there any guides'info on the internet reguarding rebuilding/reconditioning a silvertop, i'll be doing it all myself dues to cost! keep it as cheap as possible but mae a good little motor out of it, i only want to do a standard sort of check over & replace anything word beyon manufacters tolerance, of course gaskets/oil seals are a must

i have megajolt & edis parts + i have one of those ford esc modules

the engine i got also came with a loom but no ecu, its got all the stock injection setup on it!

would be great if i could get it running on the floor plz help i'm no used to these modern motors-i'm an oldschool pushrod type of engine guy usually

& these 2.0 zetec's are light & physicly small are'nt they

What do you want to know ?

I realy would advice not to open the motor up.

If you find a fault, get another,

Clean and service. A full rebuild costs more in parts alone than a new crate engine.

My vid ?

is it not worth whipping the head off to check the head gasket?

i've been looking at it for the last 40 mins i'm not 100% its a 2.0 it may be a 1.8 but for the money i paid thats no great shakes but ar there any numbers/codes i can look for on the engine to confirm if its a 1.8 or 2.0 zetec?

good vid there wasa!!!! i'm a true newbie to getting an engien up & running on the floor although i have aquired a tubular metal trolley that i plan to mount the engine too in a rwd layout

do you guys think i should try to get it running on the floor with the original injection setup bearing in mind i have no clue how to go about it but dont mind having bash with some guidance also i have no ecu!!!! but being a silvertop with matching engine loom can i put a non pats ecu on it?????? & take it from there?

or should i just set it up with bike carbs & ford ecs or edis/megajolt

must admit i do fancy giving injection a go........but a bit clueless, need to get a good day on it buggering about to get my head around it

its all a bit exciting if its a decent motor........

oh i forgot to answer you wasa,you as what i want to know but in all honesty i could do with a basic run down about these motors & injection to be honest

i'm a true novice to efi for sure......its baby steps for me i admit

building engines i can do without much greaf

cheers wasa & all

I wouldnt pull the engine apart unless you know it has a fault. As to engine size then there is a 16 18 20 cast into the block.

Full service inclueding cam belt and go from there.

The ecu's are wired differant between models and year so chances of getting any old ecu and it matching your loom arnt great but the loom can be rewired.
Early engines used eec-iv and latter eec-v, the differance is twice the amount of pins on the ecu.

You dont need to bench test it first but I love engines as much as I do cars. I plan on doing a simlar project this year with a super charged kv6.

I didnt use that engine in the vid, I sold it on. Just a toy.

If your motor has an engine number the first three letters will tell you what its from. The fourth and fifth from memory will tell you the year it was made.

Most of my engines have Pats as they have obd2 functions I like. Its no harder for me but I like wiring efi.

I can do the fuel injection for a lot less than bike carbs and Mjl but there is a lot of time in labour stripping and making looms up.

cheers

did the silvertop engines have pats ecu or were they non pats? pats is some imobiliser type setup is'nt it?

when were the last silvertops used? i'll get out for a good look at the motor tomorrow morn! strip off all the un-needed parts

mine has a intake manifold with a single throttle body, the intake is plastic & like a blummin banana

is there any possability of me utilising the fuel injection setup what are the basics i would actually need for it to run

i only have the engine loom, no ecu at present, i know this sort of depends on whether its a pats/non pats ecu

would it help if i get whatever numbers/letters are on the block to see as mentioned above what size motor,what year its is etc etc

i hope i make some sort of sence

Anything M reg on will be pats.

Pats = Passive Anti Theft System

so just J, K and L reg are pre Pats.

All the mondeo manifolds are plastic, early fiesta/ escort where alloy like the one in my vid (three types) Its easy to make a log/plenum style mani' to make getting it in a 7 easier. Do a search for Ginneta, griffin, and GBS mani's.

Silver tops came as phase 1 and 2 upto 97~98 then went to the phase 3 black top.

There is a lot of wiring to get your head around. I find wiring easy others dont. Its very cheap and runs like a stock car.

I have paid as little as a quid for an ecu with keys.

[Edited on 25/2/12 by big_wasa]

why are you in bloody the blummin flatlands of the uk big-wasa???????? i'm not overly fussed at present about going down the power route, i may be going down the wrong track but would a stock ecu run bike throttle bodies at all? with stock injectors? or would the air/fuel be all over the place?

i only ask as i know chap that breaks bikes


i understand what sensors do what on FI but as you say the wiring just blows me away a bit, i'm only getting my head around megajolt LOL & it dont work YET! it will i am confidant!

i possibly have to many parts i would have to buy to make FI work

what would be parts list of thigs i'd need?

oh where is the water temp sender/sencer usually located on a silvertop zetec? cheers again big wasa

Yep Will121 has done it with good results.

The ecu just needs to see the correct sensor values. This does mean making a plenum for the maf. There is also an issue with the Tps giving the wrong value.

Coolant temp sensors, there are two in the thermostat housing on the back of the head.

Top one is for the dash, bottom one for the ecu.

Your engine will have come with most of the sensors you need. You have the Throttle body ? black plastic plenum ?
There is a black rubber hose that goes from this to the Maf and in the bottom of this is the Inlet air temp (Iat) sensor.

Ecu with rdif chip ie key after 95 Obd2 port after 1997.

Let us know what engine you have and I will have more of an idea.

This is how ive got mine in a 7 with a home made inlet mani' The whole lot stands me at less than a bought Mjl

i have no maff or inlet pipework! also looking at the plasting banana inlet i dont thing its going to clear my brake master & servo setup on my motor, its too blummin wide at the top end, bike bodies will clear so maybe thats the option????

i need to get some thinners to clean up where the numbers are on the block as i cant make them out, think there is NCA & the good news is there is a 20 cast into the block :OD i think the engine may be from a 1998 car as there is 98 on the cambelt cover with various other letters/numbers

i have turned it over with a spanner & there seems to be good compression, stripped all the un needed crap off for the scrap man such as a PAS pump & bracketry, alternator bracket & exhaust manifild which i may reuse initially, took off the coil bracket & what lookslike an egr setup off it! aalso the cam cover says zetec on the left hand side & dord at the other end, this should be a clue of its age but i cant find the website i seen this info so i'll have to have a scout around the web?

also managed to get the flywheel off chrikey its a bit of a beast in weight, a vw van i had previously the flywheeel was'nt as heavy as the zetec 2.0 one! :O also managed to loosen the crank pulley bolt but nipped it back up, somtimes these are a sod to undo are'nt they

gotta pick up a tin of GUNK & then jetwash it within an inch of its life!

the front & rear crank oil seals have no signs of weeping oil which is a good sign i hope, cam cover gasket is leaky looking but no great shakes & its defo in need of a cambelt! possibly the cam seals may need swapping but i think they are only a tenner a set so its rude not to

i'll get some pics tomorrow & post them up of all my parts i have!!!!! i think this will help you guys to advis me

really impressed with various features of the zetec, its physical size for a start, they are quite small for thier 2.0 capacity, light engine also, not like a t-series rover turbo lump (beast of an engine) also this motor i have has a rear bowel type sump which is also what i believe is the type 2.0 mondeos had & escorts etc had a front bowl sump, i need rear bowl sump in my car anyway so it may do the job as is fingers crossed!!!!

also managed to pick up some cvh parts/brackets for alternator etc etc

do i need a differant water pump for the silvertop seeing as its now a rwd configuration

is it worth me whipping just the head off for a gander at the pistons & cylinder head valves, also are these stretch bolts that hold the head on????

so all in, not the worst day, if it turns out to be a good running motor for the money paid i'll be super chuffed

i love engine fiddling, peeing around with axles gearbox's bodywork but i think i have some form of wiring dyslexia-i really would like to fully know what i'm doing when it comes to ecus etc etc & how to check various things with sensors, should have paid more attention in maths at skool i think!

[Edited on 26/2/12 by verybudgetzetec]

big wasa thats a lovery neat setup there in the pic, pretty damn impressed! very very neat! which remonds me on the side of the block there is a small sender or sensor with a threaded part sticking out-what is it?

my engine has a crank position sensor in it already so thats a good start

zetec is defo going to be a nice jump up from the current old pushrod single carb motor at 25mpg at best!

quote:

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Originally posted by verybudgetzetec which remonds me on the side of the block there is a small sender or sensor with a threaded part sticking out-what is it?

---

cheers big wasa i have managed to get some pics so i'll get them uploaded!

heres some pics, excuse the rubbish quality
this is the sender or sensor i'm curious as to what it is, i was thinking it was oil pressure?????

cam cover, may be a clue to the motors age


front of the motor i have removed all the covers as i'm a bit of a fan of seeing whats going on when a motor is running!


you can see 20 cast into the block here


the numbers/letters on the cambelt cover


i'll get the numbers/letter on the block tomorrow when i give it a wipe with thinners

hope this helps you guys help newbie me, be good to get it all cleaned up this week

Yep its the oil switch.

So you have a phase two silvertop.

Yep you want a fiesta/escort waterpump and pulley unless you want to mess about with idlers.

Engine code will be NGA not nca That just means its a phase 2 2.0 mondeo.

Was it from an auto or manual car ?

thats the thing i can ask the chap, i dont know if its from an auto or manual, the auto wont have the same type flywheel as a manual will it?

yep defo want the the most simple solution to the water pump! i'm a great believer in just using bare essentials & keeping solutions to probs as simple as possible

its journey this zetec lark hey :OP

just whipped the plugs out & they appear a bit black rather than a sandy colour is this normal on fuel injection? as i'm mr dizzy & carb i like to see sandy colour plugs lol

i do understand that if the motor had air leaks in the intake pipework the ecu will chuck more fuel in wont it, trying to compensate

[Edited on 26/2/12 by verybudgetzetec]

if it came with a flywheel and not a torque converter then it will be a manual.

There could be any number of faults making it run rich.

Faulty lambda, cat, maf, Temp sensors, air leaks.

Had to do my mates focus on saturday for mot. Loads of air leaks due to cracked plastic pipes and a shot lambda. It was using some juice.

Fine now and passed.

yeah i understand it can be a number of issues, one i did noince was the tube that bolts into the exhaust manifold was not airtight at all, its like a big bracke pipe type fitting, so thats defo on issue that could cause the black plugs eh

you are man of skillz sir, i have hoaxed out an issue of ppc magazine which has a run down of what sensors what they do etc etc so i can have a read of the basics, try to clue myself up a bit

there are'nt actually that many sensers on the silvertop zetec is there! not many on the main block itself!

the bit that confuses me most i think is how i power it up & also hooking it up to say the stock temp gauge, as i am using a set of dash clocks from a triumph! so its not a smiths gauge or simular, same deal with the my oil pressure idiot light, & eventually the hooking up the battery & alternator as i have used some of he triumph loom aswel

i may have to do some freshening up of various parts of my car when going this zetec route anyway, i'm even at present using a crappy triumph live axle that i think is made of cheese as i'm on my 3rd diff, but that issue is also a job in the pipline as i have got a 4ha axle never gonna break that am i

ok had a look at the block to see what numbers/letters are on this motor & found the following

nca wj70369
21 D 98

also the only sensers/senders on the block & head are

oil pressure
crank position sensor that read off the flywheel
cam position senser in the head below the cam cover breather
water temp on the thermostat housing

so any other sensers i presume are all to do with the injection setup
the ones i know off are the maff senser which reads the amount of oxygen going in the motor
the throttle position sensor thats usually on the throttle butterfly shaft
usually a lambda sensor in the exhaust i think

other than that i'm a bit lost, can i for instance make the engine loom super basic ie a switched & permanat live to the ecu to run the ecu/injection????

obviously i'd need to plumb in a electric fuel pump & fuel return line aswell but i could do this off a separate circuit could'nt i or possibly the same circuit that power up the ecu???

i'm "sortof" getting my head around it :/

So your motor was made May 1998.

I think you have covered most of the sensors. There is also an inlet air temp sensor.

is the air inlet temp the one that alot of aftermarket ecu wiring folks use for turbo application

saab have an inlet temp senser that seems a univeral setup that works with lots of oe manufacturer & aftermarket ecu's so i could possibly use one of those if i cant put my hand to a ford sensor

cheers so far big wasa

is the air inlet temp the one that alot of aftermarket ecu wiring folks use for turbo application

where is it usually located on the silvertop ford-i presume on the injection setup, possibly before or after the throttle butterfly

saab have an inlet temp senser that seems a univeral setup that works with lots of oe manufacturer & aftermarket ecu's so i could possibly use one of those if i cant put my hand to a ford sensor

cheers so far big wasa

[Edited on 28/2/12 by verybudgetzetec]

Iat..

Pic in this thread

If using the eec ecu you will need the correct sensors.

For a turbo you would be looking at a Map sensor. Its a load sensor, most fords use the Maf.

The Gm sesors are popular with megasquirt where you can scale the sensors in the software.

Find a good scrapi. My local is very good on this stuff as I dont think any one elts buys it.

If I can find a car with the key(s) (rdif chip) then I can get ALL the bits to run the car for beer money. But they dont come in often with the keys.

The ford sensors are very different to most other makers sensors.The ford one is 27k ohms at 20c but most Bosch etc sensors are about 2.5 k ohms at 20 c so if using a ford ecu it will have to be a ford sensor or it will run rich all the while as the air temp sensor has the most effect on the mixture.
Paul

quote:

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Originally posted by verybudgetzetec
is the air inlet temp the one that alot of aftermarket ecu wiring folks use for turbo application

where is it usually located on the silvertop ford-i presume on the injection setup, possibly before or after the throttle butterfly

saab have an inlet temp senser that seems a univeral setup that works with lots of oe manufacturer & aftermarket ecu's so i could possibly use one of those if i cant put my hand to a ford sensor

cheers so far big wasa

[Edited on 28/2/12 by verybudgetzetec]

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forgot to ask there is a triangular type thing on the side of the block i think its a crankcase breather type thing what do i do with it, i have got the bolts out & its a gole about 2" diameter behind it

cheers

big wasa i may be interested in that offer drop me a u2u to clue me up about it all, really appreciated wasa thumbs up!

stick a breather pipe into it. On mine (also doing a BT install) the pipe just routes to the ground. I believe that you can attach it to a breather bottle....

yep breather.

Blank it of, it will breath fine through the head.

I make a plate, the turbo boys use a core plug.

If you pipe it up to a catch tank as it comes from the mondeo it will do nothing any way. There is a valve that only opens under vacuume . There will be no vacume if you have ditched the the egr.

hi guys now i have a SILVERTOP zetec, do i need an 1.8 silvertop flywheel or will a blactop 1.8 flywheel be ok?

cheers all

going to get busy making a breather tomorrow & make a start with some cornflake box's to make a water rail!



oh before blummin forget, is it the cvh/doch starter motor i need????????

cheers again all super appreciated

[Edited on 4/3/12 by verybudgetzetec]

I'M BACK AT IT AGAIN-WHAT DO YOU MEAN YOU MAY ASK-I MEAN CHANGING MY MIND AGAIN!!!!!!

heres where i'm at now, bike carbs are going to be sold, fuel injection idea is going to have to be put on hold until i understand all that caper a little more so..........


i have managed to get a escort waterpump from a local banger racer so thats my alternator/waterpump issues sorted apart from the correct belt

exhaust for a tempory measure is a mondeo cast manifold with a ford couger downpipe which i will chop about & weld so its in a noce position, at a later date it'll be a tubular exhast setup as they are lighter & will release more mambo!

spart initially is eiter going to be a ford ecs pack, not 100% correct but it'll start & run the 2ltr lump & be reliable

fueling is now going to be somthing i'm a bit more familier with, mr kind banger racer went into his box of bits & hoaxed a very very nice mild steel tubular intake manifold so i can fit either a single weber dgav or dgas of which i have both stashed in my garage, both may need a rebuild but a rebuild kit is cheap!!!




so bits i need to get a to make this puppy run are a silvertop 1.8 flywheel ANYONE GOT ONE PLZ PM ME i cant find one locally

water rail which i am making so thats SEMI sorted

the right starter motor the one that does'nt require a spacer would be preferable

so once i have the above bits i need i'll get it all mounted to this frame i have aquired & see if i can make it all run, it'll allow mw to tune the carb a bit too or rejet it as needed/required
hopefully my cheapo engine will be a decent one-if so then it'll get all cleaned up painted & looking a bit prissy! ready to install

gettin there! slowly, but making steady progress

Hi every one may I ask why do you use the rs2000 belling housing with the zetec engine is this the only housing that will mate with the zetec
Engine ?? Is it smaller in size ???

Many thanks
Gary

Hey Gary,

Not at all, I have the bellhousing from a 1.8CVH engine to a Type 9 Gearbox fitted to mine (Blacktop), matches up just fine. Also can use the starter from the CVH just bu hacking a bit off of the Ali sump.

Ok thanks
I am currently having some problems with my build the bellhousing is failing on the bulk head and the gear stick is I think in the wrong position here's some picture so you can see what is
http://s857.photobucket.com/user/garyb12/slideshow/

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Originally posted by whitestu

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also does anyone know who makes zetec inlet/intake manifold flanges???? i want to make my own bike carb manifold!

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If you can get the carbs re-spaced just use the mainfold from a bike. I have Kawasaki ZX6r carbs respaced on the original bike rubber manifolds bolted to a 5mm ali plate cut to fit the Zetec.




[img][/img]


They work a treat and cost bugger all to make.

Stu

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