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Author: Subject: Rover K-Series - MEMS experts wanted !
dickie b

posted on 21/9/09 at 08:01 PM Reply With Quote
Rover K-Series - MEMS experts wanted !

Evening all

I am looking for some guidance for getting a K-series engine running in a Sylva Fury using the MEMS system.

I am using a 1.8K engine – It is a stock item as lifted out of a 1999 Caterham 7 (non-vvc)

The engine was supplied with an Engine Management Control Box (the silver box, model refs MKC104322 , GN0109 , E0008 ) , but I have no confirmation that it came from the same car as the engine.

What I don’t have is an immobiliser box (the black 5AS unit), or an engine loom, fob plippers or any other related item.



Hence , what is the best option to get the engine operating? Bear in mind I have no desire to retain the immobiliser / plipper facility:


A) Abandon the supplied control box and buy all the ‘matched’ items from one 1.8 donor car : (Plippers, EMCB and 5AS unit and engine loom)

B) Keep my existing EMCB and buy the £90 ‘immobiliser code generator’ gizmo from Talon sportcars (which I think negates the need for the 5AS immobiliser box and plipper?)

C) Buy all the gubbins separately and get them aligned / decoded.


All in all I want to keep things as simple as I can with minimum of fuss, but sadly I can’t afford to go the Emerald ECU (which cuts out all this security malarkey).

My other concern is that the ECBM I have may be a caterham ‘tuned’ unit..(if such a thing exists..or just me jumping to false assumptions)- but again , I just don’t know if this unit is in any way unique / special to Caterham ! The code doesn’t seem to be very common unit ( at least I have not come across it as a ‘common’ part code on internet trawls.)

Finally...I did read British Trident’s comment that all this electrical apparatus is linked to an intrinsic engine (flywheel?) component.. in which case I will be really peeved as the engine and box is already fitted in the car.

So all in all.. can anyone suggest best solution here? I know there are a good number of cars running K-series engines in various forms that have probably already encountered (and overcome) all these hurdles.

All help / knowledge very gratefully received !

cheers

Richard

[Edited on 21/9/09 by dickie b]

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oldtimer

posted on 21/9/09 at 08:52 PM Reply With Quote
Don't know if it helps you at all, but I found:
http://www.aronline.co.uk/index.htm?essaykseriesf.htm
a fascinating read when I was considering a K series.

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t16turbotone

posted on 22/9/09 at 06:28 AM Reply With Quote
you need to send stevec a u2u, he is the man to help you.
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Gary 7

posted on 22/9/09 at 08:23 AM Reply With Quote
I had my ecu decoded (immobiliser removed )by injection correction uk cost 40 quid,option 2 is a code generator from talon sportscars .The engine you have is it a coilpack engine or does it have a dizzy cap.

[Edited on 22/9/09 by Gary 7]

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dickie b

posted on 22/9/09 at 05:49 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Gary

It is a coil pack (small black square thing bolted to side of the block) with dizzy.

ta
Richard

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dickie b

posted on 22/9/09 at 05:51 PM Reply With Quote
sorry Gary - I should be more specific.. it has a dizzy cap at one end of the cylinder head.
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Gary 7

posted on 22/9/09 at 07:31 PM Reply With Quote
I cant find any info on the ecu you have,give caterham a ring and ask for a price giving the ecu number ,or phone injection correction uk to see if they list it.If you get a engine loom and wire it up when you turn the ignition on the fuel pump will prime ,and on starting the engine will run for a couple of seconds if the ecu is immobilised or contiue running if its not.
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dickie b

posted on 22/9/09 at 07:57 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Gary

If I get the ECU (silver box) decoded as you suggest , does that mean the 5AS (black box) & plippers are just not needed at all?

stripping it right back is favoured option here !

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Gary 7

posted on 22/9/09 at 09:04 PM Reply With Quote
With the ecu decoded you dont need the 5as or plipper or wiring, as the ecu gets the code from these the ecu no longer looks for them and fires up.If you do try and run your ecu as i suggested and it runs for a couple of seconds then stops, you need to disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes before trying again as the ecu will shut down after you try to run it.
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dickie b

posted on 22/9/09 at 09:32 PM Reply With Quote
Ok I am with you know - I will follow your instructions and see what happens.. fingers crossed.

cheers
Richard

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