shortie
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| posted on 27/8/04 at 09:06 AM |
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Securing blade type connectors
Just started putting together my wiring and started at the fusebox but I am not happy that the female push on blade type connectors are held securely
on the male part on the fusebox. Is there a way to fix them in place?
ta,
Rich.
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Ben_Copeland
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| posted on 27/8/04 at 09:32 AM |
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Squash them slightly ??? Mine fitted on ok. You sure you got the correct size ones for it?
Ben
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 27/8/04 at 09:32 AM |
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a blob of glue from a hot glue gun works wonders (I also use this when building PC's)
as long as it's not near anywhere too hot of course!
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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mad4x4
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| posted on 27/8/04 at 10:22 AM |
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Do away with the balde type connectors as much as possible and put in solder joints covered in heatshrink will last far better and longer and cause
less problems in the future.
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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shortie
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| posted on 27/8/04 at 10:39 AM |
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Size is right, 6.3mm. Will try squashing them and the glue option, I think I may also change to the type of fusebox whereby the wires go into the
bottom and not just onto blade connectors.
Rich.
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craig1410
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| posted on 27/8/04 at 12:29 PM |
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Mad4x4,
I'd have to disagree to a large extent with using soldered joints instead of crimped joints because when soldered joints can be more susceptible
to fatigue and breakage where vibration and heat cycling is taking place. There have been many studies over the years on this subject and I
don't think it is any accident that crimping is far more prevalent in the automotive electronics industry. Crimping is also much faster if you
have a decent crimp tool.
I would like to stress the last point, "good crimp tool," as there are a wide variety of tools out there. What you want is one with a
ratchet to ensure consistent crimp pressure, and a wide crimp head which crimps the conductor and insulator in a single crush. Many people give
crimping a bad reputation because they use a cheap and nasty crimp tool and only crimp the conductor and not the insulation. This will then suffer the
same sort of fatigue breakage as a solder joint.
In summary, unless you are a highly competent solderer (I'm qualified to military standards by the way) then crimping with a good crimp tool
will be more consistent and considerably easier and faster.
Cheers,
Craig.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 27/8/04 at 12:50 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Ben_Copeland
Squash them slightly
This is what I do; I put the connector flat in my parallel-jaw pliers and gently squeeze it a little bit. It usually only requires a fraction
of a mm squash.
It's probably worth risking a connector or two to get the feel of what's required.
David
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 27/8/04 at 07:40 PM |
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For about a tenner you can get the correct ratchet tool for crimping the connectors, it even stamps the correct rating code into the plastic sleeve to
show you have done it right. It gives the correct pressure for the ally internal and for the plastic retaining bit
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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craig1410
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| posted on 27/8/04 at 07:54 PM |
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Yes Mark is right. i think I spent about £55 on a 500 piece kit of crimps which came with a good crimp tool.
Here is a link to the website. It is the DV5 tool shown here
that I use. The tool on its own costs about £17 inc vat
David, no disrespect intended but do yourself a favour and get a proper crimp tool. Crimps will simply not be reliable unless crimped correctly.
Cheers,
Craig.
[Edited on 27/8/2004 by craig1410]
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 27/8/04 at 08:17 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by craig1410
David, no disrespect intended but do yourself a favour and get a proper crimp tool. Crimps will simply not be reliable unless crimped correctly.
Eh?
At no time did I mention crimping connectors!
What I was talking about (and shortie, I think) was sorting out female lucas connectors that are loose on the blade. I suggested squeezing them
slightly so they grip the blade a bit better.
David
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craig1410
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| posted on 28/8/04 at 10:25 AM |
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David,
My apologies, I see what you were getting at now...
Just ignore me! 
Cheers,
Craig.
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 31/8/04 at 08:15 AM |
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I bought a very similair ratchet crimping tool from B&Q a whuile back - I think it was £19 but came with about 500 assorted connectors
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 31/8/04 at 09:41 AM |
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are you talking aout the actual push on to the spade, or the crimped bit that the wire goes in?
The crimp is always nicer with the more expensive rachet type tool, but costs about 10x the price of the simpler one.
faston terminals are used a lot in electricals and tend not to come off. the extra squash if you want, might help.
Id avoid using glue unless you are sure you have a tight connection to 'plough' it away from the contact surfaces, otherwise its going to
insulate. Then if its tight, do you need the glue......
atb
steve
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shortie
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| posted on 31/8/04 at 04:25 PM |
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Hi Steve,
Was talking about the push on bit, not the crimp. Have bought a ratchet type tool for the crimps which seems great.
I think I am going to change the fusebox for one that the wire go into underneath and it has a bus-bar to connect where required.
Rich.
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