shortie
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| posted on 27/8/04 at 11:43 AM |
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connecting 4 wires into 1
Just wondered how people have done this, I have one feed from the ignition which splits to four at the fuse box so just wondered how people have
connected the one wire into the four.
ta,
Rich.
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mad4x4
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| posted on 27/8/04 at 12:09 PM |
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Solder joints and heatshrink for me
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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craig1410
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| posted on 27/8/04 at 12:14 PM |
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The easiest way is just to use a crimp. Use the straight-through crimp if you know what I mean and just make sure you are using the correct size for
the sum of the cross-sectional areas of the wires being crimped.
The red crimps can take wire from 0.5 to 1.5 sq.mm, the blue crimps are 1.5 to 2.5 sq.mm and the yellow crimps are for 3 sq.mm to 6 sq.mm. So if you
just add up the area of the wires you are connecting to each side of the crimp then you can choose the correct sized crimp.
Given that you are doing 1 to 4, you may need to "cascade" a couple of crimp connectors to do a sort of 1 into 2 into 4 arrangement. Make
sure that you don't neglect the need to use appropriately sized wire to carry the theoretical maximum sustained current for each part of the
loom. You might want to use a 4mm wire split into two 2mm wires and then split again into 4 1mm wires for example.
Another alternative is that some fuse boxes incorporate a "bus-bar" where you can connect a single large positive feed and this is
connected to several fuses by a solid metal bar under the fusebox.
Try Vehicle Wiring Products if you need any wiring stuff.
Hope this helps,
Craig.
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ReMan
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| posted on 27/8/04 at 12:20 PM |
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Or use something like the dead end connector as per my avatar, if I understand what you mean coirrectly
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derf
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| posted on 27/8/04 at 12:31 PM |
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you can also just tie them together, by that I mean split each wire end into 2 sides, then wrap the 2 sides of wire A into wire B, then doe the same
to C and D, then tie A/B and C/D together, then solder and wrap in heat shrink, this IMHO is the best way.
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Peteff
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| posted on 27/8/04 at 12:38 PM |
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Solder joints here as well.
They were good enough for the Ford loom. I use a ray gun type soldering gun for them.
http://www.toolstation.com/search.html?searchstr=soldering+gun&Search=1
shrink wrap or tape them.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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nick205
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| posted on 27/8/04 at 12:48 PM |
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I crimped a ring terminal on to each feed wire and then used a stainless bolt and metal locknut to hold them all together. The whole lot is then
wrapped in tape to insulate. i figured that if I need to add or subtract from this then it would make it easier.
Nick
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twinturbo
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| posted on 27/8/04 at 12:53 PM |
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Solder every time.
TT
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zetec
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| posted on 27/8/04 at 01:16 PM |
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If each wire is for a different circuit, with each circuit supplying one or more components then the fuse box with a common supply rail is best as you
will be able to fit the correct fuses for each circuit.
Try and avoid tape joints as the SVA inspector won't be too impressed.
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Hellfire
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| posted on 27/8/04 at 01:21 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mad4x4
Solder joints and heatshrink for me
Ditto
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jmbillings
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| posted on 27/8/04 at 02:10 PM |
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1.) Strip insulation away.
2.) Twist wires together.
3.) Sellotape.
Job done 
Nah, solder and heatshrink is the way ahead - follow steps 1 and 2 first tho'.
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shortie
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| posted on 27/8/04 at 02:36 PM |
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Thanks for the replies guys, think I will get a fuse box with busbar where you can connect together what you want, basically this feed is the main
ignition feed in then it splits to provide power to four fused circuits:-
Headlight - 20A
turn\brake lights- 10A
Side\tail\fog lights- 10A
ign - 10A
ta,
Rich.
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craig1410
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| posted on 27/8/04 at 04:39 PM |
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If you do decide to use soldered connections then make sure you use adhesive lined shrink sleeve and more than one layer of protection because the
very last thing you need is for the heat shrink to come off and allow your unfused wires to short out to chassis!! This can happen very easily if the
heat shrink isn't cut nice and squarely and forms a tear. Then the heat in the engine bay will cause the heat shrink to shrink further and tear
right up the middle.
By far the safest route is to have a single large wire from a screw terminal crimp on your battery (or from your ignition switch connector) terminated
inside a busbar type fusebox with another screw terminal crimp.
As someone pointed out, the Ford loom does indeed have some soldered joints up near the ignition switch but they are actually crimped in uninsulated
crimps then soldered and covered with several layers of adhesive wrap. This is the only part of the Ford loom I have so there may be other places
where they use soldered connections too.
Busbar is the best route though.
Cheers,
Craig.
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hortimech
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| posted on 28/8/04 at 02:26 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by shortie
Thanks for the replies guys, think I will get a fuse box with busbar where you can connect together what you want, basically this feed is the main
ignition feed in then it splits to provide power to four fused circuits:-
Headlight - 20A
turnbrake lights- 10A
Sidetailfog lights- 10A
ign - 10A
ta,
Rich.
lets see if I've got this right, one wire from your ignition switch is going to power all of the above circuits? just how thick is this wire and
how many amps can a sierra ignition switch stand.
Why does everything happen to me
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mad4x4
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| posted on 29/8/04 at 10:52 AM |
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Best bet is to take that one wire and use it to switch a coil on a relay. This will then give you 15Amps / 30 Amps or 60 Amps Capability depending on
the relay contacts.
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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shortie
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| posted on 29/8/04 at 11:17 PM |
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What I am doing is no different to that of the existing fireblade fusebox, only edition is the fog lamp.
Feed wire is 3mm 33amp, looking at the existing blade loom the feed wire looks more like 2mm!
Rich.
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hortimech
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| posted on 30/8/04 at 08:52 AM |
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I would go for a relay or two if I was you, this could then feed into one side of a fusebox, the feed outs going to your individual circuits. this
would protect your ignition switch from an overload.
you could always buy a fire extinguisher if you go your way
Why does everything happen to me
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silex
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| posted on 30/8/04 at 09:40 AM |
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I too would isolate the keyswitch with a relay.
Oh, I also use brass crimps with adhesive line heat shrink tube over the top when it comes to splices.
Murphy's 2 laws
1. If it can go wrong it will
2. In case of emergency - refer to rule 1.
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