john pryor
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 posted on 9/11/12 at 09:26 AM |
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points burning
Hi can anybody help.
the points on my 1300 x flow ford engine keep burning out.
the engine will tick over for ever ,then try to rev up it will bang and spit ect.
the car is a basic locost,have replaced points condenser cap and rotor arm many times.
Have added extra earth lead and cheacked others.
Disributer has been removed and checked.
jcp
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mcerd1
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| posted on 9/11/12 at 09:39 AM |
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does it run with or without ballast at the moment ?
what type of coil is it ? (12v or 9v)
had this issue a few times on my mk1 fiesta, in the end we reconned that points just arn't made as well as they used to be
have you considered upgrading eletronic ignition ? (once its set you'll never need to adjust it again  )
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steve m
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| posted on 9/11/12 at 10:08 AM |
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Ive fitted this to my xflow, nice and easy job done, and no more points
Ford crossflow Engines AccuSpark® Electronic Ignition 
there a few different types of dizzy on a xflow, so you will need to know which one you have
regards
steve
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britishtrident
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| posted on 9/11/12 at 11:01 AM |
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You either need to fit a ballast resistor or change to a 12v coil
suitable 12v coil Genuine LUCAS High Performance Standard 12v Sports Coil DLB105
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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melly-g
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| posted on 9/11/12 at 11:13 AM |
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Is the resistor or capacitor ( or whatever it is) on the side of the dizzy OK?
It would be best to change to electronic though.
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Daddylonglegs
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| posted on 9/11/12 at 11:13 AM |
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I had the same issue on my Pinto, went through 3 sets of points before I gave up and went for the basic electronic with the amplifier. Works fine now
It looks like the Midget is winning at the moment......
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adithorp
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| posted on 9/11/12 at 12:02 PM |
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Burning is usually a sign of condenser problems. Also not having the correct ciol/balast resistor.
Although these aren't usually described as "burning out"; A couple of common mistakes often made when fitting new pionts that cause
problems are...
Not putting grease (just a dab) on the cam, causing the follower to wear out.
Not cleaning the points surface (or feeler guages) of any grease/oil before fitting.
Checking the points gap with feeler guages on used/old points. It's best done by measuring dwell angle.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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snapper
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| posted on 9/11/12 at 12:47 PM |
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Points burning means wrong coil for the distributor
Accu spark also suffers if you have the wrong coil
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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Westy1994
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| posted on 9/11/12 at 03:24 PM |
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As i am waiting for my mate to one day finish this ECU, he built me a small PCB, which basically takes the load off the points when switching, seems
to smooth out the idle as well. I am sure you can buy what I would call' points assist' units, if not drop me a line if you want one
making up.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 9/11/12 at 03:33 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Westy1994
As i am waiting for my mate to one day finish this ECU, he built me a small PCB, which basically takes the load off the points when switching, seems
to smooth out the idle as well. I am sure you can buy what I would call' points assist' units, if not drop me a line if you want one
making up.
It has been done many times, assisted contact breakers systems s bring their own problems they run into problems because breaker points need
enough current to burn off any dirt anf oil deposits that get on the contact surfaces.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Westy1994
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| posted on 9/11/12 at 03:35 PM |
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Yes we know that which is why this one drops the assist now and again to enable the surfaces to be selfcleaned.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 9/11/12 at 04:16 PM |
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Coils and Ballast Resistors 101
Back in the day of points ignition Fords, Vauxhalls some Triumphs and cold climate export models of other makes had ballast resistors to ease
starting in cold weather when battery voltage is low.
A ballasted coil is a lower voltage coil, hence the engine is running the voltage across the coil terminals of a ballasted coil in a normal car
can be anywhere between 6v and 10v depending on the car manufacturer . Cars with Delco ignitions system had the ballast resistor bolted
directly coil terminal while the Autolite/Fomoco ignitions systems in Fords from the 1960s up to the Sierra and MK3 Escort used a resistor built
into the wiring loom.
During starting the 12v feed to a ballasted coil coil is arranged so the ballast is by pass this is normally supplied by a special extra
terminal on the starter solenoid
The important thing is not use a coil designed for use with a ballast resistors without a ballast or it will burn out the points in a
couple of days use.
If you don't have a ballast resistor fitted just use an normal plain 12v coil (for example one listed for a 1970s BL Min or Hillman Imp).
You can use any 12v coil with any points distributer the only real difference between a a normal 12v coil and a ballasted type is the
internal resistance of the coil.
The other important thing is only use a coil designed for points ignition don't be tempted to use one off a car with electronic
ignition.
If you have a ballasted coil and ballast but don't have a starter or solenoid with the extra terminal you can wire a relay to supply 12v
directly to the coil + connector when the starter is working.
With Ford/Autolite/Fomoco distributer clean and plastic flash of the cam follower heal of the points before fitting and set the gap and always
lubricate the cam with a tiny amount of grease. Also with new points to the wide end of the range specified (ie Manual specifies
0.023 to 0.027" so set to a fairly loose 0.027" then run the engine for ten minutes and re-check the gap you will usually find it
has closed up.
[Edited on 9/11/12 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Locost_col
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| posted on 9/11/12 at 08:14 PM |
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Get on the group buy for the nodiz . Sort all your probs 
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snowy2
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| posted on 10/11/12 at 08:09 AM |
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deffo wrong coil by the sounds of it.
you need to fit, as others have said, either a ballast resistor or a non ballast coil.
Or for for preference an electronic coil and amplifier (with its matching coil) luckily the electronic distributor from the Mk2 fiesta's has the
amplifier built into the distributor and it is a direct fit onto the cross flow's engine (one of my kits has a 1300 cross flow in it and this
is what i have done.)
sometimes you are the pigeon, most of the time the statue.
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john pryor
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| posted on 19/2/13 at 09:02 AM |
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Thanks and iva
Hi thanks to the chap who said to fit accuspark elec ignition works atreat.
Can anybody help.
Faild iva steering would not center, origanal locost with escort rack had toe in adjusted and over inflated tyers ?A
Also gases co max 4.50 mine 8.71 origanal carb twin choke webber has been factory o/h would this just be air adjustment.
Engine escort 1300 has been reborde and o/h.
Help thanks john.jcp)
jcp
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mcerd1
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| posted on 19/2/13 at 02:45 PM |
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^^ self centring and carb tuning have both been covered before - have a search through the old threads
if you don't find what your after you'd be better starting a new thread for these issues
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