Hellfire
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posted on 14/11/04 at 12:04 PM |
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I do like an active discussion... clears the head I think!
Milk no sugar - ta!
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craig1410
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posted on 14/11/04 at 12:08 PM |
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Hellfire,
Seriously, I'm not offended and don't hold grudges so of course I will speak to you again - especially if you accuse me of talking
bollocks again...
I'd perhaps recommend exercising caution though before publicly accusing others of talking bollox, especially when the bollox they are talking
happens to be there specialist subject and not your own. I'd certainly never accuse someone like Cymtriks of talking bollox about FEA or Mark
Allanson when talking about welding. I would accuse Mr Gusterson of talking bollox but since that in itself IS his specialist subject then I
don't think he'd be offended. (Only kidding Steve!)
Anyway, my apologies to the originator of this thread (Matthew IIRC) for hijacking his thread with a daft argument. Hopefully it may have been of some
value in parts.
In summary:
Relays are good when used sparingly to remove large switching loads from delicate switches and column stalks or to allow a large and distant load to
be controlled without having to run long runs of heavy cable to and from the load which might cause voltage drop. Normally you only need to use a fuse
in the same circuit as the load itself and this should be rated according to the maximum expected current draw of the load plus a small margin.
Normally you don't "directly" fuse the coil circuit for the relay although it is sometimes the case that there will be a fuse or
fusible link between the relay coil circuit and the battery (via something like a lighting master switch or ignition switch) which will protect it,
usually along with a number of other circuits.
Finally, don't neglect to choose suitable wire for your loom if building it yourself and don't assume that the outer diameter of the wire
is a direct indication of the current rating of the wire as there are different types of insulation used which radically affect the physical size of
the wire for a given rating. I have used Vehicle Wiring Products to supply my wire and I would highly recommend the "thinwall" wire which
they can supply in countless colours and a number of ratings. The 16A stuff will be fine for most circuits but there is also 25A, 33A, 39A and 50A
sizes. Prices are per meter (1m minimum length) and range from 23p/m to 89p/m for 16A through 50A wire respectively.
VWP also supply nice fuseboxes and relay boxes by the way. I'm using two 4-way relay boxes (RB4U) and one 16-way fuse box (FBB16U) I'll
try to post some photo's when I can.
All the best,
Craig.
[Edited on 14/11/2004 by craig1410]
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DEAN C.
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posted on 6/12/04 at 02:27 PM |
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Only just read this thread,took a couple of minutes to stop laughing.
Handbags at ten paces!
The good thing is that both parties can still discuss ameniably,perhaps a few other people should take note of both parties good humoured attitude and
be a liitle bit more humble when discussions get exciting.
Nice one lads!!
DEAN C.....
Once I've finished a project why do I start another?
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craig1410
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posted on 7/12/04 at 12:47 PM |
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Dean,
Thanks for the compliment - I've never been congratulated for having a well mannered argument before...
Life's too short for holding grudges - leave 'em at the front door (or the log-in page if you prefer).
Cheers,
Craig.
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Hellfire
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posted on 8/12/04 at 10:46 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by craig1410
Dean,
Thanks for the compliment - I've never been congratulated for having a well mannered argument before...
Life's too short for holding grudges - leave 'em at the front door (or the log-in page if you prefer).
Cheers,
Craig.
HERE HERE!!!
Y'all have a nice christmas!
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